Balancer removal is being a biatch!! Help!
You don't have to beat on your pulley for 45 min. with at 2X4 or heat it up in the oven for a half an hour at 400 degrees. I'd like to hear the conversation the pulley is having with that 2X4 as it is being hit by a 3lb. mall. The pulley might slide all the way home after being heated to 400 degrees, but what happens to the rubber timing cover seal when it gets cooked by that hot pulley? It's called DISTORTION and once that happens it can no longer be called a "seal". If you look closely at the pulley bore you will see a "step" on the edge of the pulley that actually allows you get the pulley started on the crankshft. If you place it up there gingerly it will actually sit there all by itself before you ever begin to push the pulley on with what ever method you choose. It helps to get the pulley as staight as possible BEFORE you begin to push it on. This has to be done by eye so take the time to wipe the grease off of you glasses first.
Sounds as if you have not removed the balancer bolt.
That has to come off first , then use the autozone Chrysler tool refered to in the above posts or any other tool designed for your balancer.
You can use the rod supplied with the tool or do as I prefer and place an allen head a cap screw into the crank snout.
The idea is not to damage the threads in the crank.
I'm sure it will pull off if you follow the process.
When you re install do not hammer the balancer on .
Clean the inside of the balancer and crank snout.
Put a very thin coat of never sieze on the crank and HAND START the balancer back on as stated in one of the previous posts.
There is a member here (do a search) who sells a slick tool that will pull the balancer on the correct way and not damange the crank.
If not use a long rod and washer to pull it on .
Do not hammer it on or try to use a longer bolt to push it on.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Ryan
That has to come off first , then use the autozone Chrysler tool refered to in the above posts or any other tool designed for your balancer.
You can use the rod supplied with the tool or do as I prefer and place an allen head a cap screw into the crank snout.
The idea is not to damage the threads in the crank.
I'm sure it will pull off if you follow the process.
When you re install do not hammer the balancer on .
Clean the inside of the balancer and crank snout.
Put a very thin coat of never sieze on the crank and HAND START the balancer back on as stated in one of the previous posts.
There is a member here (do a search) who sells a slick tool that will pull the balancer on the correct way and not damange the crank.
If not use a long rod and washer to pull it on .
Do not hammer it on or try to use a longer bolt to push it on.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Ryan
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The best and safest way to NOT damage the crank threads is to remove the old ballancer bolt and grind the collar off it until it is a smaller diameter than the hole in the ballancer. Once you do this, all you have to do is screw the bolt back into the crank and butt the puller right against the bolt head and pull that bitch off! This method is way better than using sockets, washers, the kitchen sink or any other rig and there is NO WAY you can mess up the crank threads! I hope this helps everyone who reads this thread because I hate seeing people make mistakes like this and creating more work and aggravation for themselves. 
Just use the correct tool and it should not be a problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/808118-anyone-rent-pulley-install-tool.html #12
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/808118-anyone-rent-pulley-install-tool.html #12
I was reading this thread earlier this week, but thought that I would be OK. Last night I started tearing down to swap cams. When I started to pull on the balancer, I ended up bending the center bolt on my 3-prong puller. So I had to quite for the night. This morning I was able to pick up a rental, and the balancer came off without too much drama....
But I have my own install problems, which I will post up separately.
But I have my own install problems, which I will post up separately.
Don't use a longer bolt, you will end up messing up your crankshaft threads. There are literally 100's of threads where this has happened.
Zitty's idea might have some merit, but if I were going to use it I'd go one step further. After having ground down the built-in flat washer(collar) on the crank pulley bolt head I'd put the bolt in the drill press and drill a hole in the center of the head of the bolt to give the puller rod a place to seat during the pulling process. This would force the puller rod to be self-centering rather than walking all over the place as you tighten the puller rod down to get the pulley off. That being said, I still like my idea of using a BIG allen head cap screw with a couple of large flat washers because my method doesn't push against the crank threads as does using the bolt. The cap screw method bucks up against the snout of the crank to pull the pulley off and never even touches the crank bolt threads during the pulley removeal process.
