Wt Float!!!
Wt Float!!! 
Same old ****, different springs!!!
So I go from Manley .600" springs to 918 springs, even installed new lifters (gm ls1/ls7), same f*cking problem!
WTFLOAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Troubleshoot me here guys, what did I do???
Car ran great with the manley springs for a couple months, then started floating.. replaced springs and lifters and same thing. Camshaft is 226/226 .585/.585 Patriot camshaft, .020 shaved 241 heads. Straight as an arrow 7.4 pushrods.
Stock rocker arm.. this time around the car was making about the same, looked to be about 5-10~ whp/tq more than it did before all the way across and the a/f was 11.9:1 ..
6100 rpms is where it dies.
6100 rpms is where it dies.
What is your total combination? Are you sure it isn't some other condition like a weak coil, bad wire, or an injector condition? Are you using an adjustable valvetrain or stock valvetrain? Is lifter preload correct? There are many other things that could cause this condition.
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Verdad Gallardo What is your total combination? Are you sure it isn't some other condition like a weak coil, bad wire, or an injector condition? Are you using an adjustable valvetrain or stock valvetrain? Is lifter preload correct? There are many other things that could cause this condition.
The lifter preload I also already thought of, I had assumed the pushrods were the correct length so tonight I'm going to pull ds vc and check #1 at tdc. To my understanding it's snug then 1 full turn should be good, anything more than 1 1/2 - 2 turns then my pushrods are too long.
Just torque the rocker bolts to 23ft. lbs I think it is. Don't do it by spinning the pushrod and tighten untill it stops and then cranking the nut another 1/2 turn or anything. Torque them once, spin the motor over 180° and re torque.
You can check if the pushrod length is correct by seeing if the preload is correct.
I had this problem two times on my 6.0L. I had more of a valvetrain bounce concern. At the track it would do it real bad at the 1-2 shift. I first thought it was the trans not shifting right? Swap trans still there. Put on dyno and my sheet looked just like yours. Problem was pushrod length. I had 7.400" length pushrods and was checking my preload with my Lunati valve springs. Wrong I had to get a checker spring, and found I needed a 7.300" pushrod. With checker valve spring installed and slack taken up, I like to get to 22 foot lbs in a 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn. When I have this set up I can turn up to 7400 rpms with no problem.
Wow, to the t... on the 1-2 shift the problem is extremely evident. I thought it was the trans at first too until i put the car in neutral and reved it up and same thing.
Checker valve spring? Where can I get me one of them?
Checker valve spring? Where can I get me one of them?
Comp cams is where I got mine. Like $20 for two. This my fourth different engine, just trying different combos to see what 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, and 6.7 will do. And my #1 problem with all has been getting pushrod length just right. When pushrod length is right, it seems as though these engine will spin so free and high rpms.
Absolutely I agree and engine power/rpms with perfect valve train geometry.. I can't wait to see what kind of power I've been missing out on with these pushrods in there.
When I first did heads/cam.. i reused the 94k mile stock lifters and I believe they sagged just enough to allow the pushrods to work with the combo. As soon as I got this valve float type issue I decided it was best to change the springs and the lifters to eliminate the problem for good, but when I put the new lifters in I created a new one making the pushrods too long with the non forgiving new lifters.
When I first did heads/cam.. i reused the 94k mile stock lifters and I believe they sagged just enough to allow the pushrods to work with the combo. As soon as I got this valve float type issue I decided it was best to change the springs and the lifters to eliminate the problem for good, but when I put the new lifters in I created a new one making the pushrods too long with the non forgiving new lifters.
