cheaper to do a iron block?
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On The Tree
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From: San Antonio TX
cheaper to do a iron block? is it cheaper to do a 6.0 iron block over the aluminum 5.7? i hear diamond came out with some new pistons for the 6.0 anyone try them yet? or anyone have a 6.0 cleaned up? what is the most CI you can get out of the stock crank and stock rods on the 6.0? 382 is the most with new sleeves on a 5.7 crank correct?
my goal is to save as much as possible <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> and make it as friendly to a 150-200 shot as possible. but what is the usual cost of a block being resleeved? i saw MTI was bout 2000 bux? correct me if im wrong but would the 6.0 block just need to be bored?
my goal is to save as much as possible <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> and make it as friendly to a 150-200 shot as possible. but what is the usual cost of a block being resleeved? i saw MTI was bout 2000 bux? correct me if im wrong but would the 6.0 block just need to be bored?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: San Antonio TX
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Any idea on what would need to be done to the heads if anything? Assuming im using 5.7 heads...
also what would the average cost be to bore the block?
also what would the average cost be to bore the block?
Launching!
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From: Clinton Twp. Mi
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Yes, we do have a few part numbers for the 6.0 liters available. Give me a call or Paul at Thunder Racing a call, they have all the new part numbers in stock for the 6.0 liters.
Thanks,
Chris Gelineau
Diamond Pistons
877-552-2112 toll free
Thanks,
Chris Gelineau
Diamond Pistons
877-552-2112 toll free
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? I had the machine work estimated last week by a local shop. Appx. $150 for the bore and hone, then another $200 to assemble the rotating assembly with the new pistons and balance it all. To have them disassemble and reassemble the complete shortblock, add another $150.
The 5.7 heads will bolt on just fine. You need to decide what compression you are looking for. Approximate CR with stock 5.7 heads, a 4.030 bore using diamonds pistons w/ 2cc reliefs, and stock 6L gaskets will be about 10.4:1 (rough educated guess).
<small>[ February 04, 2003, 04:22 PM: Message edited by: BigTex ]</small>
The 5.7 heads will bolt on just fine. You need to decide what compression you are looking for. Approximate CR with stock 5.7 heads, a 4.030 bore using diamonds pistons w/ 2cc reliefs, and stock 6L gaskets will be about 10.4:1 (rough educated guess).
<small>[ February 04, 2003, 04:22 PM: Message edited by: BigTex ]</small>
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? 4.030 X 3.72 = 380
That's the 6.0 with the stock crank offset ground. Def can be done on a budget. The only down side is that you add weight to the vehicle. But it should be reliable.
That's the 6.0 with the stock crank offset ground. Def can be done on a budget. The only down side is that you add weight to the vehicle. But it should be reliable.
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Teching In
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From: Wichita Falls,Tx
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Yeah it will add some weight.But is cheaper than the resleeving process.
I had mine priced through callies and it was 3800 using the diamond pistons,eagle rods and their crank.This was a bullet proof combo.
I had mine priced through callies and it was 3800 using the diamond pistons,eagle rods and their crank.This was a bullet proof combo.
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From: Elmhurst, IL (Chicago Suburb)
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? GENTLEMAN:
How about this? Simply make sure you get your new ironblock sonic tested to ensure proper cylinder wall thickness, and then go to 4.060 bore (no problem unless planning BIG AMOUNTS of N20) and when matched with the 3.72 offset stock crank, you get 385 BEAUTIFUL CUBES. 40 more CID than stock and alot cheaper than a 382 stroker
!
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
How about this? Simply make sure you get your new ironblock sonic tested to ensure proper cylinder wall thickness, and then go to 4.060 bore (no problem unless planning BIG AMOUNTS of N20) and when matched with the 3.72 offset stock crank, you get 385 BEAUTIFUL CUBES. 40 more CID than stock and alot cheaper than a 382 stroker
!MTI 427 C5 Roadster
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From: Ancaster, ON - Where F-bodies are rare!
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Hey guys,
Would you get good results with a heads cam package designed for a 5.7L on a 370 CI 6.0??
Also with the over bore (4.030) would it make
sense to use stage 3 heads??
Thanks guy's,
Dave
Would you get good results with a heads cam package designed for a 5.7L on a 370 CI 6.0??
Also with the over bore (4.030) would it make
sense to use stage 3 heads??
Thanks guy's,
Dave
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Yes, you should get good results with any stage 1, 2 or 3 head. Of course, the chambers would have to be enlarged to reflect the bore size.
I would stay at a bore of 4.030, and give up those extra 5 cubes, just to have piece of mind, when spraying any amount of nitrous.
Head studs, and upgraded mains, would make this a bullet proof combo. I'd say that if tuned right, you could easily spray 300-500, with a direct port system. Why waste your time trying to squeeze out the extra cubes, if you are going to be spraying. You can up the jets if you want the extra 10 hp, and the motor will handle it <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />
I would stay at a bore of 4.030, and give up those extra 5 cubes, just to have piece of mind, when spraying any amount of nitrous.
Head studs, and upgraded mains, would make this a bullet proof combo. I'd say that if tuned right, you could easily spray 300-500, with a direct port system. Why waste your time trying to squeeze out the extra cubes, if you are going to be spraying. You can up the jets if you want the extra 10 hp, and the motor will handle it <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? I had a 422ci iron block, here is the price breakdown in general...
You can save over $1000 by going with an iron block over a resleeved aluminum block. Maybe even like $1500.
The weight of the block sucks. It is 75 lbs added to the nose. I could not get my car below 3500 lbs (raceweight) along with my Moser 9" and 6 pt moly rollcage without removing the powersteering and some other stuff that I consider to be essential.
I'd go 4.030 bore since that will give you the maximum amount of piston choices, gasket choices and you won't really need to do any major testing of the block to go 4.060.
You can save over $1000 by going with an iron block over a resleeved aluminum block. Maybe even like $1500.
The weight of the block sucks. It is 75 lbs added to the nose. I could not get my car below 3500 lbs (raceweight) along with my Moser 9" and 6 pt moly rollcage without removing the powersteering and some other stuff that I consider to be essential.
I'd go 4.030 bore since that will give you the maximum amount of piston choices, gasket choices and you won't really need to do any major testing of the block to go 4.060.
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On The Tree
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From: San Antonio TX
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? OK now that we figure the 4.030 bore...... What cam will go well with this setup? Right now i have the G5 but would i get anything out of a bigger cam? and what pistons should i go with? flat top or dome?
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From: Elmhurst, IL (Chicago Suburb)
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Check out MTIs R1 cam with listed specs on their web site. STroker motors have pulled as high as 480rwhp with this cam and maintained excellent drivability.
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Well, with an aftermarket K member and a arms, I was 3500 raceweight (with me in it) if I pulled out the passenger seat. I already had the back seat, front bumper support, k and a arms, a/c, front swaybar and some other stuff out.
If I did a N/A 4.030 bore iron block, I'd look into some other the 23_/23_/ duration cams or even larger. You need to IMO build a relationship with one or two shops to find a happy medium. I ran a 242/242//112 cam in my car and the motor was done by ARE.
If I did a N/A 4.030 bore iron block, I'd look into some other the 23_/23_/ duration cams or even larger. You need to IMO build a relationship with one or two shops to find a happy medium. I ran a 242/242//112 cam in my car and the motor was done by ARE.
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? Hmmm, so going to a 6.0 block sounds better than using my new 02 LS1/6 Block for a FI build up? The weight is a major concern tho, especially with my supercharger and intercoolers.
I have already bought Eagle 6.125 in rods, can these be used with the 6.0L crank with no problems?
I would like to have the extra strength the block provides and extra cubes never hurt either <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
So I will be able to run 15psi+ thru a 6.0 block?
Thanks
J
I have already bought Eagle 6.125 in rods, can these be used with the 6.0L crank with no problems?
I would like to have the extra strength the block provides and extra cubes never hurt either <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
So I will be able to run 15psi+ thru a 6.0 block?
Thanks
J
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From: Elmhurst, IL (Chicago Suburb)
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? As long as you stick with either a 4.00 overbore or probably even 4.030 overbore, and keep your compression low enough, you should be able to handle 15psi on the ironblock no problem, b/c of the extra strength of the block.
The ponies you will be pushing (especially if you go with sig. bigger cubes) will more than make up the penatly of the extra 85 lbs or so! I say go for it. Not sure about the rods but educated guess is that they are usable? Why not spend the extra 2K and go with a forged 4.00 crank and really kick some *** with a 408 beautiful cubes (4.030 bore with 4.00 crank=408cid). A perfectly square 4.0 x 4.0 motor (402CID) with FI would also KICK MAJOR LEAGUE AZZ.
GO FOR IT AN GOOD LUCK!
MTI 427 Roadster (4.060 overbore on LQ4 block with 4.125 crank=427CID) coming home in 3 weeks! <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" />
<small>[ February 09, 2003, 12:35 AM: Message edited by: MTI 427 C5 Roadster ]</small>
The ponies you will be pushing (especially if you go with sig. bigger cubes) will more than make up the penatly of the extra 85 lbs or so! I say go for it. Not sure about the rods but educated guess is that they are usable? Why not spend the extra 2K and go with a forged 4.00 crank and really kick some *** with a 408 beautiful cubes (4.030 bore with 4.00 crank=408cid). A perfectly square 4.0 x 4.0 motor (402CID) with FI would also KICK MAJOR LEAGUE AZZ.
GO FOR IT AN GOOD LUCK!
MTI 427 Roadster (4.060 overbore on LQ4 block with 4.125 crank=427CID) coming home in 3 weeks! <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" />
<small>[ February 09, 2003, 12:35 AM: Message edited by: MTI 427 C5 Roadster ]</small>
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? While where on the subject, how far can the 5.3L iron block be safely bored? I have a guy with a 99 GMC truck that we installed a Supercharger on last year, that decided to run 13 psi of boost instead of the 6 psi that it left our shop with.....burnt a piston. The motors out and I would like to get as much displacement as I can. It looks like there is a lot of meat but Have not fooled around to much with the 5.3L. Any one have any input? The guy is on a major budget so displacement with a iron block is a good option!
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From: Elmhurst, IL (Chicago Suburb)
Re: cheaper to do a iron block? HOWARD:
Hey Brother, how's it going. Did you get the BEAST Fine tuned yet? Its gonna be a GREAT upcoming SEASON no doubt.
Well i don't know the anwer to your question but my educated guess is that for F/I the ironblock in question of your customer can probably be bored out to 4.030 just like the 6 liter and probably 4.060 on a N/A motor.
Just a guess on my part. I would suggest getting the block sonic tested to see how much meat you really have and then go for the 4.030 if the material is there! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
MTI 427 Roadster (BABY comes Home in 3 weeks! <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> )
Hey Brother, how's it going. Did you get the BEAST Fine tuned yet? Its gonna be a GREAT upcoming SEASON no doubt.
Well i don't know the anwer to your question but my educated guess is that for F/I the ironblock in question of your customer can probably be bored out to 4.030 just like the 6 liter and probably 4.060 on a N/A motor.
Just a guess on my part. I would suggest getting the block sonic tested to see how much meat you really have and then go for the 4.030 if the material is there! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
MTI 427 Roadster (BABY comes Home in 3 weeks! <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" /> )