382 vs 396 stroker

Just keep your revs under 7200rpm or so and you'll be fine. (I personally wouldnt go over 6800rpm)
I assume you are using all good gear in the drivetrain?
With good heads and a real big cam I think 480-500RWHP would be possible.
Cheers,
Chris
Enjoy The Build Up & Call If We Can Help!
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
What’s the cost of a factory crank that has been offset ground?
What’s the cost of some “good” rods (don’t need supper billet 1000hp nitrous rods) that would fit the smaller bearing size?
I was planning on doing a 388 all bore (4.125 bore, 3.622 stroke) with the factory crank and rods (550 rwhp max)....
If the offset ground cranks are not very much, I might go with a 396 (same bore but a little longer stroke) and then do some heavier duty rods (with the smaller big end).
It will make more horsepower....
That $2000-2500 crank your looking at in a crank might be better spent in a $1800-2000 Resleeved big bore block and a stock crank (good for 800+ hp, noones broken one) or offset ground stock crank ($300-$400) which you can do a nice 400-410" motor with.
Those stage 3 heads are probably going to not work as well because they need the unshrouding of a larger bore....so an all bore should work very well.
It will make more horsepower....
That $2000-2500 crank your looking at in a crank might be better spent in a $1800-2000 Resleeved big bore block and a stock crank (good for 800+ hp, noones broken one) or offset ground stock crank ($300-$400) which you can do a nice 400-410" motor with.
Those stage 3 heads are probably going to not work as well because they need the unshrouding of a larger bore....so an all bore should work very well.
what he said......

all those reasons are why I am looking at a 388 all bore (or 396 depending on the $$$).....
I have stage 3 heads so they need the bore to unshroud the valves and its about the same price to do an all bore engine with stock rods/crank as it is to do a Luntai stroker kit (though one is full forged the other isn't)
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That's 383, 396, 409 or 427 or some combination so that I can mix and match the numbers (like 407 or 392. BUT, it would be better to land right on one of these.
OK, now why do I care???
Well, here's why...
The car is going in for a new paint job very shortly. It'll still be black, but will have airbrushed flames added, black ZR-1's (the 11" wheels in the rear), a new grill, and full tint on the windows. For a good idea of what the flames are going to look like, check out House of Kolor's calendar this year. There's a black Lightning in there with airbrushed flames. The flames look like a real fire, and aren't "cartoony" at all.
Apart from black, the only color on the car is going to be the flames and classic Chevrolet badging. That's why I want to land on a commonly available displacement number - so I can use a stock replacement badge. The "SS 396" badges would look pretty cool methinks.
The idea is to make the car look as evil as humanly possible, and have the snot under the hood to back it up.
Give up a little horsepower for added torque via stroke??? No biggy, that's what nitrous is for.
I had thought of doing the same thing.

If I did a 396 or a 427, then I could get reproduction fender badges from a 396/427 camaro or corvette and put on my 01.
...not sure how long it would take them to make the crank to specs, however...
There is a VERY VERY small chance you could hit 500rwhp with some freak heads and perfect exhaust setup in good weather.


Bye bye supercharger. 