I am in the planning stages for a stroker and need some feedback on a 382 vs 396. What are the pros and cons of each. I am using the stock block with stage 3 heads. I am thinking a Callies over Lunati. The big question is 382 or 396. Also I am looking for 500 rwhp on nuts. Tell me your thoughts....

 

I would go with the 396ci stroker. IF the cranks are the same price why not?

Just keep your revs under 7200rpm or so and you'll be fine. (I personally wouldnt go over 6800rpm)

I assume you are using all good gear in the drivetrain?

With good heads and a real big cam I think 480-500RWHP would be possible.
Cheers,
Chris

 

I'm not so sure the callies crank is available in over 4" stroke. Isn't Lunati the only 4.125 stroke crank? I have the callies cranks in stock, have you considered a iron block 408?

Enjoy The Build Up & Call If We Can Help!

 

Jason.....

What’s the cost of a factory crank that has been offset ground?

What’s the cost of some “good” rods (don’t need supper billet 1000hp nitrous rods) that would fit the smaller bearing size?

I was planning on doing a 388 all bore (4.125 bore, 3.622 stroke) with the factory crank and rods (550 rwhp max)....

If the offset ground cranks are not very much, I might go with a 396 (same bore but a little longer stroke) and then do some heavier duty rods (with the smaller big end).

 

If your looking for those high rwhp #'s then I think you should be looking to do an all bore motor over a stroker.

It will make more horsepower....

That $2000-2500 crank your looking at in a crank might be better spent in a $1800-2000 Resleeved big bore block and a stock crank (good for 800+ hp, noones broken one) or offset ground stock crank ($300-$400) which you can do a nice 400-410" motor with.

Those stage 3 heads are probably going to not work as well because they need the unshrouding of a larger bore....so an all bore should work very well.

 

what he said......

all those reasons are why I am looking at a 388 all bore (or 396 depending on the $$$).....

I have stage 3 heads so they need the bore to unshroud the valves and its about the same price to do an all bore engine with stock rods/crank as it is to do a Luntai stroker kit (though one is full forged the other isn't)

 

I like the numbers from my 388 all bore

 

How much more is a 388 over a 382?

I think cost would be a consideration as well.

 

OK, this is a little lame, but I need a number that ends up on a classic Chevrolet displacement.

That's 383, 396, 409 or 427 or some combination so that I can mix and match the numbers (like 407 or 392. BUT, it would be better to land right on one of these.

OK, now why do I care???

Well, here's why...

The car is going in for a new paint job very shortly. It'll still be black, but will have airbrushed flames added, black ZR-1's (the 11" wheels in the rear), a new grill, and full tint on the windows. For a good idea of what the flames are going to look like, check out House of Kolor's calendar this year. There's a black Lightning in there with airbrushed flames. The flames look like a real fire, and aren't "cartoony" at all.

Apart from black, the only color on the car is going to be the flames and classic Chevrolet badging. That's why I want to land on a commonly available displacement number - so I can use a stock replacement badge. The "SS 396" badges would look pretty cool methinks.

The idea is to make the car look as evil as humanly possible, and have the snot under the hood to back it up.

Give up a little horsepower for added torque via stroke??? No biggy, that's what nitrous is for.

 

Jason, I was very interesed in TSP 396 offsett rotating assembly. I sent several emails to Trevor but it would take him weeks to get back to me. I am still waiting on the price. Could you PM me with a price for an all bore 396 and a stroker 396. Thanks

 

PacerX......

I had thought of doing the same thing.

If I did a 396 or a 427, then I could get reproduction fender badges from a 396/427 camaro or corvette and put on my 01.

 

Sure, let's spend lots off $$$ on a custom paint job but get really picky when it comes to buying factory emblems. If you're going to spend all that money on a paint job then getting a custom emblem wouldn't be that hard. I personally think if I had a badge with Z/28 388 on my car that if would cool and original as hell.

 

If you have a 388 all bore...noones going to know but you...just call it a 396 all bore..geeeeezzzzzz

 

SDPC just told me they could order a Callies crank with any stroke including 4.125 for around $1,800...

...not sure how long it would take them to make the crank to specs, however...

 

i thought "383" was not a classic GM motor size. Mopar built lots of these units, however ..so perhaps you want to install your new LS1 stroker in a 69 Dodge Fury wagon instead...

 

My stock internals are trashed. So, I need a crank, rods and pistons anyways. I have a budget of $5,000. What is the best way to spend it and get 500 RWHP????

 

I really doubt a stroker motor will hit 500 rwhp NA. Better off going with a badass allbore setup.

 

I agree with Fenris, get a stock crank (offset if you want for $300-$400), some good rods, and pistons and you'll really be able to take advantage of those stage III heads you have.

 

If you were to go with a 396 stroker instead of a 396 all bore what would be the torque difference?

Thinking of a stroker myself. Bye bye supercharger.

Justin

 

I agree with Fenris Ulf. I have the highest hp stroker I know of and I make 484rwhp with a lot of tinkering.

There is a VERY VERY small chance you could hit 500rwhp with some freak heads and perfect exhaust setup in good weather.