hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry about the heads. There is very little difference between the 843's and 241's. The 'as cast' port has a slightly better surface unported, but nothing the butt-dyno could really pickup. Maybe 5hp difference.

Both of those cams are small enough to give you great performance cam-only, then give you a solid foundation later for the heads of your choice when the money tree has replenished your mod stash.

Also, the best piece of advice I can give you is don't get hung up on a number. Make the car run the way you want, and let the numbers fall where they may.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

At least it made it to the Got cam/heads/rocker/machining questions about LS1, LS2, LS6? READ ME FIRST! sticky in internal. I agree it would best be served as a sticky on it's own.

Fastback302

Okay I wont get to worried about it then!

thndrracer

iTrader: (5)

so i have a a4 car full bolt ons and i`m doing my trans right now with a 3600 stall and i`m going to use 3.42`s and run a 175 shot

my problem is no one has stated how`d it work with nitous, is this going to be a bad combo? also i`m shooting for mid 10`s

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

The general consensus is that unless you are pushing a 200 shot or more, that a cam is a cam. Only above that point should you begin to worry about a larger exhaust split or wider LSA. Even then, the VE's still need to be there to do what you want off the bottle too.

Most people say that the MS3 & MS4 cams respond very well to nitrous.

landonew

OP, let me give you a fair warning. The same warning that i wished i would have gotten. There is no "safe setup" as far as switching cams/heads. Yesterday my car got dynoed. It put down 435 rwhp, with basically no tune (it was getting tuned). Next pull, spun bearing. Just like that, I have a shortblock that is basically worthless. I have to pull the engine, and probably either have it rebuilt or buy a forged block and have it reinstalled. And I got ALL the goodies that people say you need to be safe. Ls6 oil pump, timing chain, rockers, pushrods, upgraded springs. I even did the drivetrain, 9" rear, driveshat, viper main t56, clutch. I went with a mild cam as well (much smaller than either one of the ones you are considering). The car had 25,000 miles on it, which is relatively low mileage. I am not trying to discourage you from putting a cam in your car. Lots of people do it, and have relatively no problems. They do it on blocks with over 100,000 miles and spray a 200 shot and their cars run strong for long periods of time. But you need to understand the risks involved here. Good luck in whatever you decide to do, but don't let anyone tell you that such and such setup is 100% safe.

thndrracer

iTrader: (5)

sweet thanks

dameter21

iTrader: (7)

even thought the MS4 is bigger and has a lower lsa it still has better drivability than ms3 and more power sooner.

KingSS

iTrader: (1)

it all depends on what you are looking for. If you are looking for a big cam with an agressive idle that will make some decent power cam only then go with something like the MS3 and MS4. Most of your driveablilty is in a tune, if you don't get a solid tune on your car, especially a cam like the MS3/MS4 you will see issues like some of these people have decribed. I personally daily drive an MS3/PRC headed car and absolutely enjoy it, i got a great tune and the car drives great even with stock 3.42 gearing. If you are looking for something fairly aggressive but not as big as the MS4 look at the Torquer v.3, it has the same aggressive lobes but less duration. This gives the cam more power and low end torque while still keeping the driveability of a smaller cam. Either way with a good tune almost any cam is driveable. Good Luck with your build.

BlackSS2001

iTrader: (23)

I've got a M6 and I still think it drives just fine.

Like it's been said over and over it's all about the TUNE! Good tune good running car. Just makes sense. I went to TSP and had them tune it for me. Got the car home and it ran like crap! So I took it to another guy and the car runs great! I can stick the car in 6th at 50 mph and just cruse along no problems and as far as taking off from lights and city stop and go the car does great.

I also have to say I'm glad I don't have the "low end torque” that I guess I don't have when I'm spinning all the way through 1st and most of 2nd. (granted that I have 4.10’s in my S60).

99TransAmLS16Spd

iTrader: (8)

So much is in the tune, from drivability to performance to gas milage. I think the biggest issues with most shops is that the tune focuses on two things: idle and WOT.
I am close to purchasing EFILive V2, and if it's anything like tuning OBDI stuff, it takes a lot of data logging at part throttle. Then making changes to the bin, and logging some more, etc, until you are satisfied. You can't really blame the busy shops for this. But for a DD, the time invested will pay off. I can't wait to start tuning the OBDII (it's just a damn shame it's so expensive).

rocksws6

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I'm not really happy with my tune. It was expensive for one $575 and then it was surging a little bit around 1600 so I took it back to them and they made it out like I was just being a picky bitch. If I had it to do over again I would buy HP tuners and do it myself. I won't say the name of the shop because they're are a sponser here, but they are very big shop with a good reputation. But I don't see how they got it. Anybody that's debating between the two, taking it somewhere or doing it yourself. Do it yourself.

john563

iTrader: (17)

did you put in rod bolts? It was not till mid-late 2000 that they put in better rod bolts.

BlackSS2001

iTrader: (23)

Yeah but doing it yourself would be a big mistake if you don't know what your doing though. When the last guy tuned mine he stuck in a different pcm it was a self learning self tuning one and it blue toothed everything to his laptop he could also tune while we were driving down the road. It was awesome! We did that for about 1 1/2 hours then went on the dyno for the same amount of time. He does it all on the side too so he didnt charge an arm and a leg like most people do. I'll be seeing him again once I get my new parts on the car. shooting for 450+ to the wheels.

Reject

iTrader: (24)

what program was it? EFI live ?

rocksws6

iTrader: (4)

There's only one way to learn. That and I got a buddy that has a little know how that could have helped me out a little bit if needed.

BlackSS2001

iTrader: (23)

It's always good to know people in high places haha.

Reject

iTrader: (24)

just wanting to give my other two cents on learning to tune a MS-series cam....AHAHAHAH


lol those are one of the most hardest cams to learn when your a newb at tuning. i tried

BlackSS2001

iTrader: (23)

Yeah I bet. Them and the T-Rex. big nasty cams haha. but once tuned the right way are like purring lil kittens... hahaha

Reject

iTrader: (24)

yeah but like i said a newb trying to tune those cam's is near impossible. not enough experience to know what the cam wants, with that big of a cam you have to pull all your notes out to tune correctly....with out damaging your engine in the process. again i'm takling about newb tuners