Valve Spring Swap Problem
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From: Gainesville, FL
Valve Spring Swap Problem We're doing a cam swap on my buddy's car and having issues with the valve spring swap. We've got Patriot duals and the Crane Cams tool. We changed out #1 & #6 but can't quite get #8 now. We can't get the locks to seat correctly in the rear spring's retainer.
Any tips for this? Has anyone else run into issues with the Patriot Duals?
This **** is just so frustrating right now. Started working at 9:30 this morning and it's still not done.
Any tips for this? Has anyone else run into issues with the Patriot Duals?
This **** is just so frustrating right now. Started working at 9:30 this morning and it's still not done.
Did you replace the valve seats? I tried swapping to dual valve springs on stock seats and it wouldnt work. I think its because the inner spring cannot compress completely because the hump in the stock seat is in the way.
Are you using the TDC method? If so, you need to make sure the piston is at the absolute top if its down a ways you may not be able to compress the spring enough.
Also, with the Crane tool, which way do you have the bar that presses on the retainers. If you set the bar so the cutout is up, you can get them to compress a bit further but you have to be more careful with alignment.
Another tip, as you first start compressing the spring, look in and make sure the valve stem is centered in the retainer hole. If not, then gently push the retainer to line it up. If its off center the locks can be hard to put in. This is especially tough on #8 of an f-body because you can't really see back there.
Also, with the Crane tool, which way do you have the bar that presses on the retainers. If you set the bar so the cutout is up, you can get them to compress a bit further but you have to be more careful with alignment.
Another tip, as you first start compressing the spring, look in and make sure the valve stem is centered in the retainer hole. If not, then gently push the retainer to line it up. If its off center the locks can be hard to put in. This is especially tough on #8 of an f-body because you can't really see back there.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2006
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From: Zimmerman, MN
I feel your pain. I did a cam and springs in my truck yesterday. I started at 9:30 AM and buttoned it up at 10:30 PM. I didn't use the crane tool and those back springs were a bitch, I know you have even less room. Make sure the retainer is centered around the stem. A few of mine moved to the side a little so I would put the lock in on the open side and spin it around the stem to the tighter side.
Nice vettenuts.. that is another thing we ran into.. if you are using TDC method, put the old crank bolt back in and spin it very slowly until you see the valve raising or lowering.. with the valve higher you wont have to compress the spring as much.
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Well it was pretty much just user error. We didn't have the Crane tool set up 100% correct. There wasn't enough room to compress the spring any further for some reason. I have no idea how we got the first 2 cylinders changed out but couldn't do just 1 spring on #8. No idea but we finished it up this morning in about 1 hour. It went smooth sailing once I figured out what was wrong. I'm a valve spring master now. 
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Gainesville, FL
The Crane Cams tool comes with 2 nuts that fit the all-thread that goes through the machined piece. You need to put one nut on the bottom of the all-thread as tight as you can to keep the all-thread from spinning in the base. I left 2 threads or so past the nut just to be on the safe side in case the all-thread decided to work itself out.
Once I had that set up, it worked great. It compressed the springs REALLY well and we could pull the valve stems up super high to get the locks on. I couldn't fit the washer on the top but it still worked great with just the nut.
No clue how we got lucky on the first two cylinders though.
