Planning on making a deal for a 98 TA.

Need to know what weakness's 98's ls1 internals/ externals and anything else are.

 

The automatic transmissions and rear ends don't like to stick around too long after you start making some power. Ask me how I know..

 

Rod bolts

 

The 98's dyno slightly lower. Maybe 15hp average compared to the 01-02 cars. The plus side is they don't seem to burn oil like the newer ones tend to do. Mine did not burn a drop in between changes.

The only thing I would be concerned about if I bought another 98 would be making sure it had good oil pressure. My old car made 40psi hot idle. However, a lot of members on here seem to think that ~20 psi is enough and then wonder why they spun a bearing. This low pressure is almost always caused by a dying pump and is a relatively cheap (~$100) and easy fix.

 

These aren't 98 specific problems.

 

they have a different PCM layout. really only seen it as a problem if doing a a4/m6 conversion.

the coils are induvidually bolted to the valve covers too, not really a probelm, just annoying ot work on.

rod bolts are the only real problem ive seen though... an easy fix with some ARP set though

 

What year started getting the better rod bolts? Have the stock 98 ones caused any failures in an engine with the stock redline?

 

The PCM also limits your tuning capacities. Mine will be getting repinned to a 99+ system. The perimeter valve covers are also a pain in the *** compared to the center bolts. I'd consider the rod bolts to be the main aspect of what you are looking for though.

 

i think starting 99 the rod bolts are better! and the 98's also had knock sensor problems and they had a different water pump

 

I think 98s and 99s are the same. Never heard of 98 failures on a N/A engine with a limiter of 6200 or less. I wouldn't trust the stock rod bolts on any engine spinning higher than the factory rev limiter.

Never heard of this problem...?

Not a different pump, just a different pump pulley...which isnt a problem since both versions work just fine.


If you're considering a 98 and the price is good, go for it. The 98s are the first year for the LS1 F-Body so these litte quirks, but they are just as reliable and can make just as much power as any other year.

 

ok im sick of everyone thinking the 98 is worse than the newer ones, rod bolts are pretty much the same and you should replace them neways if your getting up on the horsepower. Second the only difference is the intake manifold, the 01-02 came with the LS6 and thats the reason they make alittle more power other than that they are all the same. I have a 98 and its never caused me ne problems. I will admit to the transmission but hell any transmission with 100k is gonna have problems, and takin it to the track did her in.

 

I made 530rwhp on my stock 98 shortblock
The PCM is different the valvcovers are different but not really problems.
The only thing I would do is switch to some 02 knock sensors.Some 98s had problems with false knock.

 

2 yrs on my stock 4l65E on 150 shot before she went.Made 570/540 106K and still sprayin on her.Trying to unwhore her to make it more comfortable for my hoes Nice to have a 10sec DD if needed Also for the knock issue, Id just desensitize them via tuning, i have mine uber desensitized cause it was getting falso knock launching at the track

 

the 98-00 only made less power because they had a more restrictive exhaust. They actually had a bigger cam than 01-02. Throw longtube headers and a good catback and end up with just as much HP as a 01-02 with the same mods.

Rod-bolts are an issue, mostly for >6500rpm running. If you are gunning to build an engine to spin past 6500rpm, then you have more than enough cash to spend on a set of rod bolts.

Transmission and rears are identical throughout the years, so we all have that damn 10 bolt grenade with the pin loose lol.

the 98 may have a different computer, but no less difficult to tune for. A good tuner will tune it just fine. It's when you want to do something like FI where a 98 is not the ideal PCM.

Perimeter bolt + individual coil packs aren't a problem really. I take out I think 9 bolts then I can get the whole coil set off all strung together. Just more bolts on the valve covers. An issue with new heads as you will have to buy new valve covers.

98 had 28lb injectors, 99-00 had 26lb injectors. 02-02 had 28lb injectors

98-00 has the LS1 intake. A LS6 intake is $400 roughly. Don't let that be the only reason.

98 oil pumps MAY fail. If it's still strong after 50k, odds are it's not going to die anytime soon. The pump issue was a manufacturing defect with the spring in the pump. Those that failed more than likely failed a LONG time ago, early in the life of the 98's but the stories continue on haunting the 98 legacy.

I've cammed my car along with all the normal bolt ons and still run my 98 oil pump. 70-75psi at WOT, 38-40PSI at idle,40-42PSI while cruising. Still running strong with 110k on it, cam at 100k give or take.

Bonuses of the 98. Working temp guage. Nicer steering buttons for your radio. No black box onboard recording your last moments before a crash.

98 had a smaller gas tank and it was steel.

 

Some of the '98's have a problem with false knock. It can be easily fixed by getting the updated knock sensors and harness. That's what I did. I was getting about 4* of retard before and none after the swap.

 

My 98 had heads an cam with 120k miles. no major problems, no oil consumption and stock rod bolts shifting at 6600. The only downfall they really have is the heads. they have the 853's and they make a little less power than the 241's on the later models

 

didnt 98's come with diffrent heads, like 853's or something

 

Forgot about the heads, the worst flowing out of the years. Though it's not as bad as one makes it out to be, it'll still put out good power, just a little lower than the later years.

Though I'm hoping to break the 400rwhp mark with a good set of heads for my cam + bolt on car.

 

close thread.lol slade nailed it

 

806's