Big Cube Blues: Which size do I get?
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I have change my mind about adding cubes and F/I. I am going to go big cube all motor, w/ an occasional spray. Now I'm on the fence about which to purchase. I want to stay aluminum but I don't know if I want 422, 427, or 436 ci. Does the 436 make noticably more power than the 422? Is it reliable. There aren't a lot of 436's out there it seems everyone is going either 427 or 422. I was wondering if this was because of a reliability thing or not.
Ohh...and one more thing, anybody know the average power outputs of each of these motors.
Ohh...and one more thing, anybody know the average power outputs of each of these motors.
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If I was about to drop $10k on a motor, I would make sure I got something that was going to last a while. A resleeved 422 aluminum stroker with nitrous sounds like a pretty big risk. No warranty for sure, and super thin walls.
If you really want big, maybe try to use the C5R block and put a stroker kit in that...that'd be $10k plus machining and labor, but it'd probably have quite a bit more of a chance surviving what you are wanting to put it through.
If you really want big, maybe try to use the C5R block and put a stroker kit in that...that'd be $10k plus machining and labor, but it'd probably have quite a bit more of a chance surviving what you are wanting to put it through.
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I was in the same boat over the winter. I opted to go with a 422 aluminum block. There seem to be a good many of these out there and I figured most of the bugs were worked out. You can go bigger on both bore and stroke but I feel the bigger you go the weaker it will be.
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jmx....Agostino's resleaved aluminum motor is running a healthy shot and running 1000hp. But I was wondering about day to day reliablity. SSgirl, The bores in the 422 and the 436 are the same, 4.100 in. The 436 has a 4.125in crank though. Hopefully some knowlegable who have one of these motors or sponsors can pipe in and shed some more light on the subject.
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Why even spend the crazy money when you have 397's dyno'ing 517rwhp/490rwtq? I suggest you give Futral Motorsports a call.. Do a search and see how many 436's with a hydr cam dyno'ing more than 10rwhp higher.. Most of them do not make 500rwhp..
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Vince has a good point. I was on the fence for quite a while. 409 iron block vs 441 aluminum. The extra expense is just not worth 10rwhp to me. Block machining and resleeving is an expensive deal. If you want to go aluminum though, stick with the 397 as Vince mentioned, or a 427.
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Got any more info on these 397's hopefully someone with one can chime in. Do the 422/427's put out more torque than the 397's?
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I know Mikey at Rapid went 9.7s with a ARE 436, all motor.I will be picking up my 422 solid-roller with a healthy shot real soon.The problems with sleeves have been worked out.I spend alot of time on this site and have yet to read a post about someone dropping a sleeve in a ARE block.I say stay away from the iron block.397 422 427 436 alum are all a good choice.
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I've heard some good success stories about the 436. I'm not so concerned with peak numbers as I am with area under the curve. Obviously the larger cube motors are going to have more under the curve than the smaller ones.
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I like the sounds of all these 'smaller' motors making the big numbers. Makes things a little more affordable. How about some track times with these setups though??
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511 rwhp is outstanding, is that motor 13:1 compression? PaiN did something like that with a 422ci + 12.5:1 compression. What mph does your car run at the track?
Mike 01WS6, are you the guy selling the F2 blower and parts? If so you are clearly comfortable spending money on performance parts.
If you are looking for MAX durability, I'd get a C5R block for ~$6100. That's double what a big bore block will cost from an ARE or MTI but it would be the most durable.
If was all about numbers, I'd look into a 4.125 bore x 4.000 stroke for a 427ci. I would not go over a 4.000 stroke. I'd look into doing a cam with 24_/24_ duration, and 114 LSA. No need for a 110-112 LSA you want to keep the powerband broad and who wants tractor-like torque down low. If I did a big inch motor, I'd do a 240/240//115 with LS6 heads (2.05-2.08/1.60 valves). I had a 422 iron stroker and I did a 112 lsa after having a 114 and the 112 brought my peak power down to 6000 rpms. It's had a bit too much lope for me as well.
We should not be too cavalier with the "occasional spray" comments, that really does make a difference with the ring gaps and cam specs.
After the C5R block I would do a big bore from a shop that has a good track record with them.
Mike 01WS6, are you the guy selling the F2 blower and parts? If so you are clearly comfortable spending money on performance parts.
If you are looking for MAX durability, I'd get a C5R block for ~$6100. That's double what a big bore block will cost from an ARE or MTI but it would be the most durable.
If was all about numbers, I'd look into a 4.125 bore x 4.000 stroke for a 427ci. I would not go over a 4.000 stroke. I'd look into doing a cam with 24_/24_ duration, and 114 LSA. No need for a 110-112 LSA you want to keep the powerband broad and who wants tractor-like torque down low. If I did a big inch motor, I'd do a 240/240//115 with LS6 heads (2.05-2.08/1.60 valves). I had a 422 iron stroker and I did a 112 lsa after having a 114 and the 112 brought my peak power down to 6000 rpms. It's had a bit too much lope for me as well.
We should not be too cavalier with the "occasional spray" comments, that really does make a difference with the ring gaps and cam specs.
After the C5R block I would do a big bore from a shop that has a good track record with them.
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PSJ, the CR is 12.2:1 CR and the dyno run was with leaded 103 octane and around 28* of timing, but this is the way I run it at the track so I wouldn't call it dyno pimping
No track times yet as I 3-4 snychro was bad, I just got a beefed up tranny from AAP (steel shift forks, triple cone synchros, cryoed input shaft) so I will be hitting the track very soon, hoping for 10's at 130 mph
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