Gets VERY hot here... which weight oil you guys recommend...?
#41
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LOOK- Too the original poster. You Daily drive this car? IE what kinda traffic you drive in? The winter grade of oil you want to run in Az. in the summer shouldnt be more than 15-40 in your car. Thats at the peak. An oil thermastat is never needed. Oil not only lubricates but also cooles an engine. If ever in a cold enviroment get a Pan warmer from Moroso. Only in Alaska have I ever needed such device. Heat is HP. But Too much heat kills HP. 99blancoSS- I agree-. Keep your engine fluids cool to help the engine more efficient.- And as for Penzoil- I work In thier fields and Eddie Hill was my Fav driver in the day. But after losing multiple engines to parifin build up-no thanks.
#42
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LOOK- Too the original poster. You Daily drive this car? IE what kinda traffic you drive in? The winter grade of oil you want to run in Az. in the summer shouldnt be more than 15-40 in your car. Thats at the peak. An oil thermastat is never needed. Oil not only lubricates but also cooles an engine. If ever in a cold enviroment get a Pan warmer from Moroso. Only in Alaska have I ever needed such device. Heat is HP. But Too much heat kills HP. 99blancoSS- I agree-. Keep your engine fluids cool to help the engine more efficient.- And as for Penzoil- I work In thier fields and Eddie Hill was my Fav driver in the day. But after losing multiple engines to parifin build up-no thanks.
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#44
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I use Shell Rotella T 15w-40, it is a diesel engine oil loaded with anti wear agents zinc and phosphorus, shouldn't be used with cats. I also have a 36 pass oil cooler in the space where my air pump used to be. Before I put the oil cooler in my oil temp would frequently get up to 280-285 when getting on it a little. Now It only gets up to 205-210.
#45
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you said you just put in a new engine? What are your bearing clearances? Some builders run bigger-not much-clearance so they can run thicker oil with a high volume pump of course. You do lose a tiny bit power but get added protection. In Az. where temps get hotter than most places-like Here n Tx(95 now)-I run 10-40. Brand dont matter as its just who you trust. I personally had probs with penzoil-had great succes with valvoline-running royal purple now. An in line oil cooler is great for any vehicle that does alot of city driving. When oil gets to hot it breaks down and turn into parafin(wax), by keeping your fluids at engine operating temps helps prolong engine life.
#47
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Not on the HUD, but similar. The Corvette has the DIC that shows many data points. I leave mine on oil temperature and since it's a numerical output it's easy to glance at. The oil temp sensor is mounted at the filter where the oil cooler block mounts, if I was using an oil cooler.
#51
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Bondurant runs M1 15W-50 last I heard in all their GM engines. They started losing engines and GM came down and recommended that weight over the normal 5W-30.
If you want to run an oil cooler take a look at this setup - http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/oilcooler.html . I don't see him using LTs so you will want to be concerned about routing the oil lines, but using the Mocal thermostat will alleviate any concerns about temperature management.
If you want to run an oil cooler take a look at this setup - http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/oilcooler.html . I don't see him using LTs so you will want to be concerned about routing the oil lines, but using the Mocal thermostat will alleviate any concerns about temperature management.
#52
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I run m1 5-40 in the winter and 15-50 in the summer. I also sent many samples to Dyson over the last several years and M1 got the best wear numbers by far. GC 0-30 did terrible in my motor. Only had one sample of PP but it was the 5-30 that was in my car when i picked it up. looked OK. M1 at 10,000 mile intervals has shown excellent wear. I still spin my stock 130000 mile bottom end to 7k regularly.
#53
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I run m1 5-40 in the winter and 15-50 in the summer. I also sent many samples to Dyson over the last several years and M1 got the best wear numbers by far. GC 0-30 did terrible in my motor. Only had one sample of PP but it was the 5-30 that was in my car when i picked it up. looked OK. M1 at 10,000 mile intervals has shown excellent wear. I still spin my stock 130000 mile bottom end to 7k regularly.
Bill
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I have a bonestock '02 T/A with 29K miles I bought this past March '08. I did the first oil change last week to regular M1 15W-50 and it made my piston slap way worse.....well never hardly noticed it until I switched to the thick stuff.....it would even slap under low throttle conditions like cruising a parking lot while looking for a spot and take a over a minute for it to tone down on cold starts.
I attended a dyno day yesterday, a week after putting in the thick stuff, and before I went I switched out the regular M1 15W-50 to M1 Extended Performance 10W-30 and the piston slap was significantly reduced, almost to the point that you really have to listen close to hear it....so no 50 weight thick stuff in this LS1. Just sucks I had to dump over $20.00 of M1 15W-50 with only about 250 miles on it.
I attended a dyno day yesterday, a week after putting in the thick stuff, and before I went I switched out the regular M1 15W-50 to M1 Extended Performance 10W-30 and the piston slap was significantly reduced, almost to the point that you really have to listen close to hear it....so no 50 weight thick stuff in this LS1. Just sucks I had to dump over $20.00 of M1 15W-50 with only about 250 miles on it.
#55
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FWIW Mobil 1 High Mileage motor oil which is API SL, not SM rated, has 1,000ppm ZDDP antiwear agent in it, whereas all SM oils have a maximum of 800ppm. Once again we can thank our government with fuking up another product by dictating what and how much additives can be used. Mobils web site has a chart showing this info.