Gets VERY hot here... which weight oil you guys recommend...?
#1
Gets VERY hot here... which weight oil you guys recommend...?
Hey guys, I'm in Phoenix, AZ... as i'm sure all of you know it hit's the 120's here during the summer.
I'm a die hard Mobil 1 believer, so there is no changing my mind there... but what weight do you guys recommend for the heat?
mods in sig, if that matters...
I'm a die hard Mobil 1 believer, so there is no changing my mind there... but what weight do you guys recommend for the heat?
mods in sig, if that matters...
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#10
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Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30. Running a thicker weight oil will increase oil temperatures, which is what you don't want. I open track my Z06 in the Texas summer and PP 10w-30 has held up great. I work with Terry Dyson and monitor engine and oil condition by way of used oil analysis. Over the last 4 years I've used Royal Purple Racing 21, Redline 5w-30, Redline 10w-30, Redline 10w-40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, and Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30, each with used oil analysis. Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 has produced the lowest wear and highest level of stability of all.
#16
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What are your oil temps now? I would be surprised that a street car would produce oil temps that would be in the 'danger' zone for any of the decent synthetic oils on the market. If you install an oil cooler, you will need to monitor oil temp to ensure that they are reaching at least 205 degrees. One issue some don't consider is that adding an oil cooler may prevent the oil from reaching the correct temperature to displace condensation. This creates a terrible wear pattern because water attacts fuel and the combination of water and fuel encapsulates dirt that's carried through out the engine. You can install a thermostat in the oil system, but that adds complexity and cost to the solution.
Just as a reference point, I do not run an oil cooler and see 285 degree oil temps during open track events. With these oil temps, Pennzoil Platinum has no problem handling this without breakdown or excessive wear.
Just as a reference point, I do not run an oil cooler and see 285 degree oil temps during open track events. With these oil temps, Pennzoil Platinum has no problem handling this without breakdown or excessive wear.
#18
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What are your oil temps now? I would be surprised that a street car would produce oil temps that would be in the 'danger' zone for any of the decent synthetic oils on the market. If you install an oil cooler, you will need to monitor oil temp to ensure that they are reaching at least 205 degrees. One issue some don't consider is that adding an oil cooler may prevent the oil from reaching the correct temperature to displace condensation. This creates a terrible wear pattern because water attacts fuel and the combination of water and fuel encapsulates dirt that's carried through out the engine. You can install a thermostat in the oil system, but that adds complexity and cost to the solution.
Just as a reference point, I do not run an oil cooler and see 285 degree oil temps during open track events. With these oil temps, Pennzoil Platinum has no problem handling this without breakdown or excessive wear.
Just as a reference point, I do not run an oil cooler and see 285 degree oil temps during open track events. With these oil temps, Pennzoil Platinum has no problem handling this without breakdown or excessive wear.
Because only about 60 percent of the engine cooling is handled by the radiator and coolant, the other 40 percent (more in an air-cooled engine) must be taken care of by the engine oil. The combustion process takes place at about 2000°F to 3000°F, which can heat pistons and valves to 1000°F in extreme cases. In pistons, much of this heat travels down the connecting rods and affects the bearings. Since tin and lead, two common bearing materials, soften drastically around 350°F and melt at 450°F and 620°F (respectively), it is important for the oil to transfer excess heat away from the bearings as quickly as possible. In valves, the long, thin valve stem is more easily stretched when hot as the valve spring pulls the valve tight against the seat. Too much stretch, and valve clearances disappear and valves and seats burn.
There are ways of helping the oil keep its cool without resorting to chemistry. Increasing sump capacity increases the length of time the oil gets to cool off before being thrust into the breech again, and the more oil there is the more BTUs it takes to heat it up and keep it hot. Adding an oil cooler allows the oil to more readily lose heat, and can add to the volume of oil in the engine.
Incidentally, installing a high-volume oil pump to cure high oil temperatures actually exacerbates the problem in most engines. A high-volume pump takes more horsepower to run (creating heat), and it over-pressurizes oil passages, which can lead to greater oil consumption as the oil is squirted or flung onto the cylinder walls or past seals
The way you drive has a big affect motor oil performance, and thus vehicle’s useful service life.
Repeated cold starts can cause excessive fuel dilution. Short trips around town can lead to abnormal water accumulation. Unless the engine frequently reaches its ideal operating temperature (190°F coolant; 220°F motor oil), these volatile contaminates are left to attack engine parts instead of being burned off by engine heat. Even after the engine has reached normal operating temperature, it takes a while for the engine to recover from the abuse of frequent short distance driving.
Driving in hot climates and/or towing and/or other severe duty use of your car can also cause oil oxidation and sludge and deposit build up.
The poster is driving in temps of 120*, how hot do you think his oil is getting?
Forced induction cars, how hot do they get? An oil cooler is a weapon against heat in situations where it is needed. He seems to have a situation, maybe I'm wrong for doing it but I presented him with an option. Its not for everyone.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 04-10-2008 at 04:24 PM.
#20
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......
The poster is driving in temps of 120*, how hot do you think his oil is getting?
Forced induction cars, how hot do they get? An oil cooler is a weapon against heat in situations where it is needed. He seems to have a situation, maybe I'm wrong for doing it but I presented him with an option. Its not for everyone.
The poster is driving in temps of 120*, how hot do you think his oil is getting?
Forced induction cars, how hot do they get? An oil cooler is a weapon against heat in situations where it is needed. He seems to have a situation, maybe I'm wrong for doing it but I presented him with an option. Its not for everyone.
How hot does his car run in 120* ambient temps? The OP did not present any data to evaluate so I have no idea, but I would bet somewhere around 240 and this can be easily handled without an oil cooler. If the OP is *convinced* his oil temps are very high and the added complexity and cost of an oil cooler is his choice than that's okay. I, like you, am posting a response to the OP's question based on my hard earned and $ experience in the area. I'm just a person with data to the contrary of popular belief. Without data, I'm just a person with an opinion.
Another misconception is that oil temperature alone is an indicator of oil condition over a period of time. Without oil analysis, your guessing. There are many factors that contribute to the degradation of oil performance and unless heat is the ONLY verified issue, an oil cooler won't fix the problem and could make it worse or cause other negative side effects.