rebuild
#2
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All depends on where you live and whos doing the work, what parts you go with and how extensive a job you do. I would charge you about 800 minimum just for block work, line honing and such( balancing). Then you add in parts and getting the crank magnafluxed.. my guess is about $2000 with you doing the assembly. Just an off the top of my head guess, could be more could be less.
#3
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I'm in the process of getting it down now. I have an overlapped connecting rod bearing and a crank that is scored (not sure how bad). I am not doing any of the work myself. I'll keep you posted on the extent of what parts I am going to need and the labour costs.
#4
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All depends on where you live and whos doing the work, what parts you go with and how extensive a job you do. I would charge you about 800 minimum just for block work, line honing and such( balancing). Then you add in parts and getting the crank magnafluxed.. my guess is about $2000 with you doing the assembly. Just an off the top of my head guess, could be more could be less.
i dunno
#5
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I did my complete 347 forged for 3gs. Thats for all machine work and parts.. Cost me $275 for machine work (ex. Block vatted, Bore/hone, Balance (flywheel, crank, pressure plate, and rods), installed cam bearings, Turned my crank). So actually its not bad at all if your doing a stock rebuild.
#6
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I did my complete 347 forged for 3gs. Thats for all machine work and parts.. Cost me $275 for machine work (ex. Block vatted, Bore/hone, Balance (flywheel, crank, pressure plate, and rods), installed cam bearings, Turned my crank). So actually its not bad at all if your doing a stock rebuild.
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i have been reading A LOT on internal **** and really thinking about what i want. I just can't see it cositing me significantly less then $8K; i can't justify putting that into my stock block when i can get a 402 for the same price.
I mean h/c/tune is going to be about @3K just in parts.
I have some piston slap so i would get my bottom end redone as well.
by the time u factor in labor and parts, as well as machining. it MIGHT be $1.5K less. That is assuming nothing is fucked up and needs to be replaced. Also; knowing hoe i am i wouldn't replace any rebuild pieces with stock OEM replacements. I would def use ARP studs and better barings. So i wouldn't be saving anything.
Then there is the fact that a long block is warrentied, and all parts are matched.
If you're going for stock, then it is worth it. I just don't understand why people spend so much money modding their stock block when they could have a long block with better performance for the same price.
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#8
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Why not a 402 from Scoggins? About $4200 for the short block. Otherwise, bore/hone your block for $150, buy new pistons, and if you need a crank, there are plenty of stock ones for sale cheap. Upgrade the rods for $300-400. Done. All depends on what you want then you're done.