Who sells Machine Flat Washers? Need them for my YT install.
#1
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What's up guys? I am trying to install my YT UL's on my TFS 235's. Well the shim supplied was not enough to get a good wipe pattern in the middle of the valve. So I added another washer that I had laying around to get the correct wipe pattern. The needed thickness is .100". I don't want to stack washers, just seems like a bad idea. I called McMaster-Carr and couldn't find exactly what I needed. The main problem is with tolerance variance. The thicknesses, what ever they may be, have a .020" variance. That is way too much for what I am needing. All the shims/washers that came in the YT kit are exactly .047". I need that kind of accuracy. The washers I need are 5/16" x 3/4" x .100" Or 8mm x 19mm x 3mm. Who sells true machine flat washers that are accurate. I kind of need an answer like yesterday. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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What's up guys? I am trying to install my YT UL's on my TFS 235's. Well the shim supplied was not enough to get a good wipe pattern in the middle of the valve. So I added another washer that I had laying around to get the correct wipe pattern. The needed thickness is .100". I don't want to stack washers, just seems like a bad idea. I called McMaster-Carr and couldn't find exactly what I needed. The main problem is with tolerance variance. The thicknesses, what ever they may be, have a .020" variance. That is way too much for what I am needing. All the shims/washers that came in the YT kit are exactly .047". I need that kind of accuracy. The washers I need are 5/16" x 3/4" x .100" Or 8mm x 19mm x 3mm. Who sells true machine flat washers that are accurate. I kind of need an answer like yesterday. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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You might find something you can use here, they sell washers intended to be used as shims:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000055616791
If you buy regular hard washers, they tend to vary on thickness from different manufacturers. This is why they tell you +/- .010 or .020, but if you buy a batch they should all be the same thickness.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVS...00000055616791
If you buy regular hard washers, they tend to vary on thickness from different manufacturers. This is why they tell you +/- .010 or .020, but if you buy a batch they should all be the same thickness.
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will be doing this soon.....does it matter if the engine has just ran or not due to the lifters being pumped up....or after it sits the lifters will be bled down...thanks for the help
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I actually measured mine with the head off. Much easier. You just change out the spring to a checker spring and bolt down the rocker. Then push it down with a dial indicator attatched to just over the valve and push down the lift of your spring. You can do this same method on the car or warm it up. Pull the rocker off and put some marking die on the valve. Screw it back down and roll the motor over. After that you need to put an adjustable push rod in there, find 0 lash at 22ftlbs and add .075" to that number and that gives you your push rod length.
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I actually measured mine with the head off. Much easier. You just change out the spring to a checker spring and bolt down the rocker. Then push it down with a dial indicator attatched to just over the valve and push down the lift of your spring. You can do this same method on the car or warm it up. Pull the rocker off and put some marking die on the valve. Screw it back down and roll the motor over. After that you need to put an adjustable push rod in there, find 0 lash at 22ftlbs and add .075" to that number and that gives you your push rod length.
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I actually measured mine with the head off. Much easier. You just change out the spring to a checker spring and bolt down the rocker. Then push it down with a dial indicator attatched to just over the valve and push down the lift of your spring. You can do this same method on the car or warm it up. Pull the rocker off and put some marking die on the valve. Screw it back down and roll the motor over. After that you need to put an adjustable push rod in there, find 0 lash at 22ftlbs and add .075" to that number and that gives you your push rod length.
What dial indicator are you referring to and where/how do you attach it?
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im sorry i dont have my rockers or heads yet but..where exactly does this shim go....under the pedistal? if so wouldnt that essentially take lift away from the cam....pics would be nice
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I used the dial indicator from my cam degreeing kit. I attatch it to a big piece of steel that sits on my valley cover. Then I put it right next to the roller.
The shim goes under the pedistal. Once you have the correct wipe pattern in the middle of the valve you spec your pushrod length as I described above. I talked to Ron about my issue earlier and it seems that I have the one out of a thousand problems. 99% percent of the time one shim works. I remember Vettenut having to use alot of shims with some AFR heads if memory serves me correct. I am trying to find his post.
The shim goes under the pedistal. Once you have the correct wipe pattern in the middle of the valve you spec your pushrod length as I described above. I talked to Ron about my issue earlier and it seems that I have the one out of a thousand problems. 99% percent of the time one shim works. I remember Vettenut having to use alot of shims with some AFR heads if memory serves me correct. I am trying to find his post.
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I bought 11/32 ID shims from McMaster-Carr, they were within 0.002 of each other in thickness and the ID and OD were very close (not metric but very close to what is required). Mine are 0.125, part #3088A820. The part # Mike V gave you above is correct.
Here is how to do it on the work bench: Link
Here is how to do it on the work bench: Link
Last edited by vettenuts; 05-19-2008 at 05:07 PM.
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so if once you get the correct wipe with the shims under the rockers....then fit pushrods to them...if you get the pushrod length wrong would you not get the valve lift and duration offered by your cam?
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if this is the case why do vendors tell you they come with .050 shims..got my heads milled .020, vrx5 cam...and automatically tell you you need 7.500 pushrods....what you guys are saying is that i need to custom fit my pushrods to my needs...please keep elaborating
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ok so the way im thinking these rockers with the TFS heads should be a constant since the tip of the valve and the base of the rocker doesnt change...so everybody that runs tfs heads and yella terra ultra lites should all use the same shims...now where the pushrods vary is from the difference from stock casting and the distance from the hole for the pushrod on the rocker and the adjoining end on the lifter...differences in people setup here would be head gasket thicknesses and head milling....please set me right im sure im wrong
#18
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Kurtomac. Every head is different. You must check like I stated above. I happen to have the wierdo set of TFS's right now. Ron sent me 7.500" push rods as well. When I called him today to tell him I needed different ones he had me questioning my self. So we talked about the process and I went and did it all again and came up with the same results. I started from no shim to .047" to .100+ and watched the wipe pattern move forward to the middle of the valve each time. Most people use the stock rockers when they go H/C. So the safe bet for the push rod sellers is the 7.400. Most of the time they are close but who checkes them to know? Not many. The stock rockers are almost impossible to check any way due to the flatness of the rocker tip. Add in milling and thinner gaskets and things get really messed up. Now when people spend money on after market rockers they tend to spend a little more time on the install and start to check things. Most find that they need different parts. That is how pro shops get the most out of their builds. They check every thing. Just a little side load on the valve can cause alot of problems. It may only cost a couple of hp up front but you can have big damage later. As long as you get to zero lash plus a quarter of a turn you are going to use the lifter correctly. But you want about .075" lifter pre-load to keep you vacuum up.
Last edited by Pray; 05-19-2008 at 09:33 PM.
#19
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Here is something else about the push rod length. There are more than just the heads and gaskets that effect it. Cam base circle, lifter length, cup depth, pocket in the rocker, pedistal hiegth just to name a few. Start changing any of that from stock and things change very fast.
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so how do you know what length you need to use?....i thought these were non adjustable...just tq like stock but make sure wipe is correct...where are we figuring out pushrod length?