Engine Rebuild Parts List...
05-21-2008, 05:16 PM
#1
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Engine Rebuild Parts List... I'm rebuilding the bottom end so am I missing anything from this list that I need to add?
ARP 134-6006 Chevy LS1 LS6 Connecting Rod Bolt Set
Clevite Cam Bearings
ACL Competition Main Bearings
Diamond Forged Dome Pistons
Eagle Forged H Beam Rods
ARP 134-6006 Chevy LS1 LS6 Connecting Rod Bolt Set
Clevite Cam Bearings
ACL Competition Main Bearings
Diamond Forged Dome Pistons
Eagle Forged H Beam Rods
05-21-2008, 05:47 PM
#2
Why are you using a dome piston?? With your mods you would be completely fine with a set of Diamond -2cc flat tops from TSP. And I would go Durabond on the cam bearings & Clevite on the mains/rods. Also might as well invest in a ARP main stud kit while it's being rebuilt. Maybe some ARP head bolts too just for added piece of mind.
Also don't forget the machine work & all the little stuff like gaskets & plugs for the block. Oh & that ever elusive little oil dog bone piece. I have seen aolt of guys rebuild their motors & forget to make sure that is installed.
If your not really sure what all is gonna be involved I highly advise you to call TSP or some other professional LS motor builder to get advice & a quick run down. they can also help you select the proper internals for your engine goals. You don't wanna just buy stuff thats listed for a LS1 without knowing exactly how it's gonna effect your combo.
Also don't forget the machine work & all the little stuff like gaskets & plugs for the block. Oh & that ever elusive little oil dog bone piece. I have seen aolt of guys rebuild their motors & forget to make sure that is installed.
If your not really sure what all is gonna be involved I highly advise you to call TSP or some other professional LS motor builder to get advice & a quick run down. they can also help you select the proper internals for your engine goals. You don't wanna just buy stuff thats listed for a LS1 without knowing exactly how it's gonna effect your combo.
05-21-2008, 06:28 PM
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Great advice Big Mike I will definitely call TSP tomorrow so they can give me a good rundown on what application I plan on building. I just want to get the pistons, H beams etc soon that way I can get them up to the machine shop right around the time they bore the engine. I know they will at least need the pistons. I'm not informed enough on the difference between dome, dish and flat top pistons so I will call around to get some more information before I start buying all the wrong parts.
thanks again!
thanks again!
05-21-2008, 06:31 PM
#4
Why are you using a dome piston?? With your mods you would be completely fine with a set of Diamond -2cc flat tops from TSP. And I would go Durabond on the cam bearings & Clevite on the mains/rods. Also might as well invest in a ARP main stud kit while it's being rebuilt. Maybe some ARP head bolts too just for added piece of mind.
Also don't forget the machine work & all the little stuff like gaskets & plugs for the block. Oh & that ever elusive little oil dog bone piece. I have seen aolt of guys rebuild their motors & forget to make sure that is installed.
If your not really sure what all is gonna be involved I highly advise you to call TSP or some other professional LS motor builder to get advice & a quick run down. they can also help you select the proper internals for your engine goals. You don't wanna just buy stuff thats listed for a LS1 without knowing exactly how it's gonna effect your combo.
Also don't forget the machine work & all the little stuff like gaskets & plugs for the block. Oh & that ever elusive little oil dog bone piece. I have seen aolt of guys rebuild their motors & forget to make sure that is installed.
If your not really sure what all is gonna be involved I highly advise you to call TSP or some other professional LS motor builder to get advice & a quick run down. they can also help you select the proper internals for your engine goals. You don't wanna just buy stuff thats listed for a LS1 without knowing exactly how it's gonna effect your combo.
05-21-2008, 07:41 PM
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There isn't anything wrong with domed pistons. He would just have to make sure PTV clearance was okay and I assume its a street car so 91 or 93 octane compatible.
05-21-2008, 08:51 PM
#6
I agree on there's nothing wrong with domed pistons thing. I ran some quick numbers through a compression ratio calculator. With a 2cc dome attached to 6.125 rods, 62cc heads, .052 compressed thickness GM MLS head gasket, a 1.315 compression height, the pistons .011 out of the hole you get a 11.345664038249351:1 compression ratio with a .041 quench. You're also retaining deck strength in the heads by not milling them, allowing the pistons to have a greater ring land distance for the crown thickness, and more room for multiple ring packages.
Also ARP head studs > bolts.
Also ARP head studs > bolts.
05-22-2008, 12:33 AM
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Maybe I should start a whole new thread on this question but what are the benefits and disadvantages of domed pistons vs. flat top pistons? Are the forged materials any different or is domed better for spray and psi and flat top better for NA type engines running high compression? Just curious if anyone has any input on this.
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05-22-2008, 04:48 PM
#8
There's already a thread about dome vs flat top vs dish in the advanced tech section:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=top+dish+flat
Both setups really have their advantages, but it can get rather complicated. If you read that and have more desire to learn more read this about piston design:
http://lsxextreme.com/showthread.php?t=979
Forged pistons generally use two aluminum alloys, 4032 and 2618. 4032 is a durable and lighter material usually used in naturally aspirated engines and mild boost / nitrous applications. 2618 Alloy is designed for the more extreme wear of boosted and nitrous applications.
4032 pistons will have quieter cold start operations due to their tighter piston to wall clearances compared to 2618 pistons. This is due to the 15% greater thermal expansion seen in the 2618 alloy. 15% may seem like a lot, but do the math. Considering a piston to bore clearance of 2/1000's of an inch, 15% is only .0003". Once the pistons have reached their operating temperature, the noise (piston slap) differences should be nearly identical in volume between the two alloys. 4032 pistons will have reduced oil consumption and longer ring life compared to their 2618 cousins due to their better cold start tolerances. While to many these physical comparisons point towards 4032, you must understand that 2618 pistons, for their slight “defects”, are clearly superior in terms of tensile strength and fatigue endurance to 4032.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=top+dish+flat
Both setups really have their advantages, but it can get rather complicated. If you read that and have more desire to learn more read this about piston design:
http://lsxextreme.com/showthread.php?t=979
Forged pistons generally use two aluminum alloys, 4032 and 2618. 4032 is a durable and lighter material usually used in naturally aspirated engines and mild boost / nitrous applications. 2618 Alloy is designed for the more extreme wear of boosted and nitrous applications.
4032 pistons will have quieter cold start operations due to their tighter piston to wall clearances compared to 2618 pistons. This is due to the 15% greater thermal expansion seen in the 2618 alloy. 15% may seem like a lot, but do the math. Considering a piston to bore clearance of 2/1000's of an inch, 15% is only .0003". Once the pistons have reached their operating temperature, the noise (piston slap) differences should be nearly identical in volume between the two alloys. 4032 pistons will have reduced oil consumption and longer ring life compared to their 2618 cousins due to their better cold start tolerances. While to many these physical comparisons point towards 4032, you must understand that 2618 pistons, for their slight “defects”, are clearly superior in terms of tensile strength and fatigue endurance to 4032.
