Texas Speed 233/239 on 113 LSA
05-30-2008, 09:15 PM
#21
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I just installed this cam and i used the comp 918's hope i didnt make a big mistake but comp now rates them to .625 so i think they'll be fine. Guess time will tell
05-31-2008, 08:51 AM
#23
General rule of thumb usually is that the smaller the LSA (110/111) the later in the power band you will see power (4,000+). In contrast, the larger the LSA (114/115) you'll see you're power come on a little earlier. Usually though you'll have a nicer, flatter curve with a higher LSA cam which tends to make them more streetable but some of the very low LSA cams such as the MS3/MS4/Trex etc seem to peak higher.
And no, stock springs will not support up to .600 lift. Not even close. You'll definitely need new ones. Contact TSP they will set you up with everything you need. Contacting the vendor is ALWAYS a better idea than getting your information from some yahoo on an internet website... Me included...
And no, stock springs will not support up to .600 lift. Not even close. You'll definitely need new ones. Contact TSP they will set you up with everything you need. Contacting the vendor is ALWAYS a better idea than getting your information from some yahoo on an internet website... Me included...
Those springs should be fine, personaly unless I was running over .600 lift on a high duration cam I would just go the pac behive route and save some cash, have ran these with the stock retainers. I only see duals in use for solid rollers or bigger duration extreme lift cams. It's maily a safety crutch. You can also get some stronger push rods but unless they're bent I never change them. I would rather have those as the weak part of my engine, much easier to change than a lifter.
Last edited by redz_02; 05-31-2008 at 08:57 AM.
05-31-2008, 02:42 PM
#27
I believe it's 7.4's for stock heads. I just used the stock pushrods when I put a G5X cam in my 02 back in the days. If you want to do that just make sure they're not bent. Or you can get a new stock set. Stock ones run fine in an ls6 that redlines at 6500, they have no problem with a cammed ls1. Once again a matter of preference. Who is doing the cam install? Don't forget to get a dowel rod to hold up the lifters since the heads aren't coming off. You can find that in one of the sticky sections, you do not want to drop a lifter in the oil pan.
If it was me you need:
Valve springs(think around 170 for beehives)
ls2 timing chain, going to have to take the stock on off anyways (50 bucks)
ported oil pump(roughly 100 bucks)
If it was me you need:
Valve springs(think around 170 for beehives)
ls2 timing chain, going to have to take the stock on off anyways (50 bucks)
ported oil pump(roughly 100 bucks)
05-31-2008, 02:52 PM
#28
alright sweet picked up the cam today should be getting these other parts in a few weeks..And the damn LS6 manifold
I hate being broke in college. Im going to be doing the install with some of my buddies that have done theirs already. They should be able to help a lot with the internal stuff. Ill be reading up on ls1howto for the cam install during the next few days though. I think i might already have a ported pump. the motor is a brand new and has about 10,000 miles on it, so i think the pushrods should be ok....It was a brand new longblock... Some of my friends were telling me i needed hardend pushrods though
I just wanna make sure everything is good so i wont have to tear it apart again once its in
I hate being broke in college. Im going to be doing the install with some of my buddies that have done theirs already. They should be able to help a lot with the internal stuff. Ill be reading up on ls1howto for the cam install during the next few days though. I think i might already have a ported pump. the motor is a brand new and has about 10,000 miles on it, so i think the pushrods should be ok....It was a brand new longblock... Some of my friends were telling me i needed hardend pushrods though I just wanna make sure everything is good so i wont have to tear it apart again once its in 
