car hesitates off idle, ~3000 RPM
07-16-2008, 12:05 PM
#1
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car hesitates off idle, ~3000 RPM Just got a vindicator cam swapped in with dual springs, hardened pushrods, dynotune etc. and the car smells rich at idle. goosing the gas makes it hesitate before it climbs rpms, but if you slowly gas it itll rev fine. thought it might have been plugs, changed them out and it still does it.
also while at moderate acceleration ~50-60% throttle, it will feel like it misses at around 3000 RPM, but i dont think it is actually missing, it just hesitates like it is.
my question is, are both of these issues in the tune? there were no problems before the cam.
car has lid, ls6 intake, longtubes, and true duals.
also while at moderate acceleration ~50-60% throttle, it will feel like it misses at around 3000 RPM, but i dont think it is actually missing, it just hesitates like it is.
my question is, are both of these issues in the tune? there were no problems before the cam.
car has lid, ls6 intake, longtubes, and true duals.
07-17-2008, 01:16 PM
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I just posted a similar thread because im having issues like yours also. I can guarantee the tune is on also.
Check your EVAP first.. Mine was stuck open. Just cap off the plug on the intake manifold and unplug the evap itself.
After we fixed that mine still runs funny. Im putting a push rod length tester hoping maybe im off a little.
Check your EVAP first.. Mine was stuck open. Just cap off the plug on the intake manifold and unplug the evap itself.
After we fixed that mine still runs funny. Im putting a push rod length tester hoping maybe im off a little.
07-17-2008, 03:22 PM
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honestly i think i could DD this cam if the hesitation wasnt there, and it wasnt puke rich at idle. thats just me though, its definately a much harder car to drive now. i have stock 3.42 gears and i try to keep it above 2k all the time, and it starts to pick up around 3k, but its not as bad as i was expecting it to be. once i get my rear end and 4.10s in there i dont think itll be weak anywhere.
i have no regrets in going with a large cam, if only i could get it tuned half decent.
where is the plug on the intake manifold for the EVAP? is it on the backside?
i have no regrets in going with a large cam, if only i could get it tuned half decent.
where is the plug on the intake manifold for the EVAP? is it on the backside?
07-17-2008, 04:19 PM
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It is on the drivers side on the front of the intake manifold. It will look like a black C shaped tube that runs from the manifold to a solenoid on the side of the manifold.
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07-17-2008, 04:37 PM
#8
honestly i think i could DD this cam if the hesitation wasnt there, and it wasnt puke rich at idle. thats just me though, its definately a much harder car to drive now. i have stock 3.42 gears and i try to keep it above 2k all the time, and it starts to pick up around 3k, but its not as bad as i was expecting it to be. once i get my rear end and 4.10s in there i dont think itll be weak anywhere.
i have no regrets in going with a large cam, if only i could get it tuned half decent.
i have no regrets in going with a large cam, if only i could get it tuned half decent.
07-17-2008, 04:43 PM
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Just got a vindicator cam swapped in with dual springs, hardened pushrods, dynotune etc. and the car smells rich at idle. goosing the gas makes it hesitate before it climbs rpms, but if you slowly gas it itll rev fine. thought it might have been plugs, changed them out and it still does it.
also while at moderate acceleration ~50-60% throttle, it will feel like it misses at around 3000 RPM, but i dont think it is actually missing, it just hesitates like it is.
my question is, are both of these issues in the tune? there were no problems before the cam.
car has lid, ls6 intake, longtubes, and true duals.
also while at moderate acceleration ~50-60% throttle, it will feel like it misses at around 3000 RPM, but i dont think it is actually missing, it just hesitates like it is.
my question is, are both of these issues in the tune? there were no problems before the cam.
car has lid, ls6 intake, longtubes, and true duals.
did u change plugs and wires, or just plugs?
u should do both
07-21-2008, 06:09 AM
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for your mods listed in your signature you over cammed your car...basically a milk truck will beat you at a stop light...but i bet it sounds cool huh???
240 duration in a stock engine....way too much...
240 duration in a stock engine....way too much...
07-21-2008, 09:24 AM
#16
For your $500, you have to understand that they probably spent 2-3 hours on the dyno working on the wot and idle tune. I'm not sure who did the tune, but to get the drivability down, it requires a lot longer to get the mid throttle drivability nailed down.
07-21-2008, 11:19 AM
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you can say its overcammed, blah blah blah but that doesnt really help me solve my problem. cars with large cams (MS4, Trex, Vindicator) can be tuned to drive decent, and for what its worth are the fastest cam-only cams. the reason i went with such a large cam is so i wouldnt have to buy another cam for as long as i own the car. i do have future plans for the car, but money will not allow me to do everything all at once.
milk truck? give me a break, it didnt lose that much low end power at all....with gears and stickys it should be hell off the line with a 4k launch.
care to try and make me look stupid some more? if you are going to post in my thread, at least make an attempt to help my situation instead of trying to bash me with your biased opinion. i knew what i was getting and i dont regret it one bit.
in other matters, alchemist, you are correct. i was told it was a 2 hour dyno job and one hour of driving the car around town. should i expect more for what i paid or should i just get another tuner to do a driveability/part throttle for me? if $500 is the going rate for an idle/wot then i am more than happy to shell out for a driveability, but if im getting ripped here i would like to know as well.
thank you for your constructive input.
milk truck? give me a break, it didnt lose that much low end power at all....with gears and stickys it should be hell off the line with a 4k launch.
care to try and make me look stupid some more? if you are going to post in my thread, at least make an attempt to help my situation instead of trying to bash me with your biased opinion. i knew what i was getting and i dont regret it one bit.
in other matters, alchemist, you are correct. i was told it was a 2 hour dyno job and one hour of driving the car around town. should i expect more for what i paid or should i just get another tuner to do a driveability/part throttle for me? if $500 is the going rate for an idle/wot then i am more than happy to shell out for a driveability, but if im getting ripped here i would like to know as well.
thank you for your constructive input.
07-21-2008, 11:43 AM
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im in middle tennessee.... ive tried to find some close sponsors and the best i could find was in memphis, ~3.5 hour drive. sure would be nice to live in texas right about now...
07-21-2008, 02:00 PM
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i have been in this game for a long time 22yrs...and while cars may change...
some things stay the same....over camming cars has been something speed shops have done for years.
....yes you can get a huge cam to idle at 900 rpm's...yes cars with 240+ duration are some of the fastest at the track...but 99% of the time people dont drive their cars at 100% wot...let alone at the track. there is a difference between a street car and a track car. i went 11.20's @ 121 in a 3700 lbs buick ttype with a stock cam, head car, 19 yrs ago... cams are not the final answer....ever look at the duration and lift on a buick gn cam?? when moding a car it needs to be a balenced package and a 240 duration cam in a stock car....isnt balenced for the street. trying to compensate by adding 4.10's may help but for me...i have had 4.10's on the street and its too much, at the strip its fine but again one has to decide what your trying to build a street machine or a track car...back in 91 i went from 3.08's to 3.73's to 4.10's and finally back to 3.55's.. the more hp i added the less gear i needed..i ran 10.80's @ 125 in 92' at motorsport nat's... doing things over and over just plain stinks, let alone being an utter waste of money... i am not trying to **** on your parade...dont take it that way...people like tony mamo say a mid 220 duration cam is more than enough to make 500 + hp...and maintain 100% streetability....
you can say its overcammed, blah blah blah but that doesnt really help me solve my problem. cars with large cams (MS4, Trex, Vindicator) can be tuned to drive decent, and for what its worth are the fastest cam-only cams
some things stay the same....over camming cars has been something speed shops have done for years.
....yes you can get a huge cam to idle at 900 rpm's...yes cars with 240+ duration are some of the fastest at the track...but 99% of the time people dont drive their cars at 100% wot...let alone at the track. there is a difference between a street car and a track car. i went 11.20's @ 121 in a 3700 lbs buick ttype with a stock cam, head car, 19 yrs ago... cams are not the final answer....ever look at the duration and lift on a buick gn cam?? when moding a car it needs to be a balenced package and a 240 duration cam in a stock car....isnt balenced for the street. trying to compensate by adding 4.10's may help but for me...i have had 4.10's on the street and its too much, at the strip its fine but again one has to decide what your trying to build a street machine or a track car...back in 91 i went from 3.08's to 3.73's to 4.10's and finally back to 3.55's.. the more hp i added the less gear i needed..i ran 10.80's @ 125 in 92' at motorsport nat's... doing things over and over just plain stinks, let alone being an utter waste of money... i am not trying to **** on your parade...dont take it that way...people like tony mamo say a mid 220 duration cam is more than enough to make 500 + hp...and maintain 100% streetability....
you can say its overcammed, blah blah blah but that doesnt really help me solve my problem. cars with large cams (MS4, Trex, Vindicator) can be tuned to drive decent, and for what its worth are the fastest cam-only cams