*Ticking Noise* - Is It A Wrist Pin Or Loose Flywheel Bolt?
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Nah it's not the headers. I changed out the entire h/c that was in it b/c i originally thought it was a collapsed lifter. Obviously the headers had to come out and be put back in, and the noise is still there sadly.
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mine had a similar noise a few months ago. does it get faster with rpm and keep the same pitch or does the pitch change.
i had a leakdown on #6 injector and when i came out a week later to start it I hit the key and the noise started. I hydrolocked #6, Bent a rod and the piston was hitting the crank when reaching bdc.
Ran realy good that way for about 600mi till i got tired of replacing parts and pulled the motor. 0 damage to the bore or crank even after a few 7k rpm blowup already so i can find the problem rants.
i had a leakdown on #6 injector and when i came out a week later to start it I hit the key and the noise started. I hydrolocked #6, Bent a rod and the piston was hitting the crank when reaching bdc.
Ran realy good that way for about 600mi till i got tired of replacing parts and pulled the motor. 0 damage to the bore or crank even after a few 7k rpm blowup already so i can find the problem rants.
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Does the ticking slow down and speed up with the car as you acel and decel. I had a ticking that sounded like it was coming from the transmission. Since the engine was droped and put back in the ticking is gone. I thought it was caliper freezing on me at first. I still never found out what it was?
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It's VERY noticeable a low rpm w/a load on the engine. It's harder to hear higher up the RPM range (either b/c it actually quiets down or b/c everything else is making more noise), but I do believe it's still there and consistent with the RPMs yes.
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im in the same boat man. ive done a couple posts and taken it to a couple shops, but still...i have no idea what it is. it sounds like its gettin worse so im about to take it to an ls1 shop here in houston. when i turn my engine off i can hear a clunking underneath the car. does this happen on yours also.
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Bringing this thread back up to see if you found the cause yet as I've got a similar tick/tap in my LS2 C6 that I can't get rid of.
Background info:
I bought my car used and it already had a cam and headers and it ran quiet as a mouse...no ticking at all and very little, if any, sewing machine noise. After owning it about a month, one night after driving it pretty hard I got back in the car and I noticed a tick/tap in 1300-2000 rpm range. This was back in the spring.
Everyone kept telling me it's valve train and likely the lifters....so I changed from oe lifters to Caddy lifters...didn't work still ticked. Drove it awhile with it still ticking. Took it to a few different shops and they still thought it sounded like lifters.
So after parking the car most of the summer I got frustrated about a month ago and had the ENTIRE valve train changed using Yella Terra rockers, Morel link bar lifters, new Thunder Racing cam, and new Livernois heads. I also put a new Melling hi-vol oil pump(great oil pressure btw), new PowerBond pulley/balancer and it still makes the ticking/tapping sound.
Oh and I've tried 3 different sets of header gaskets( 2 oe mls sets and a set of Percy XX Carbons) so I would think that rules out header leaks.
Been driving it a few weeks and now it seems to be getting a bit worse...I can now hear it at idle after the car warms up. This may be due in part to the valve train noise is now actually quieter than before thanks to the Y/T's and the Morels so I can hear the tick more plainly at idle.
No one seems to be sure what it is. I've now been told it may even just be normal LS noise but why would it have started suddenly that night?
Anyway...to me my tick/tap sounds like it's coming from low down on the motor and is especially noticeable on the drivers side.
Sorry for the long post but any help would be appreciated.
-Ken
Background info:
I bought my car used and it already had a cam and headers and it ran quiet as a mouse...no ticking at all and very little, if any, sewing machine noise. After owning it about a month, one night after driving it pretty hard I got back in the car and I noticed a tick/tap in 1300-2000 rpm range. This was back in the spring.
Everyone kept telling me it's valve train and likely the lifters....so I changed from oe lifters to Caddy lifters...didn't work still ticked. Drove it awhile with it still ticking. Took it to a few different shops and they still thought it sounded like lifters.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
So after parking the car most of the summer I got frustrated about a month ago and had the ENTIRE valve train changed using Yella Terra rockers, Morel link bar lifters, new Thunder Racing cam, and new Livernois heads. I also put a new Melling hi-vol oil pump(great oil pressure btw), new PowerBond pulley/balancer and it still makes the ticking/tapping sound.
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Been driving it a few weeks and now it seems to be getting a bit worse...I can now hear it at idle after the car warms up. This may be due in part to the valve train noise is now actually quieter than before thanks to the Y/T's and the Morels so I can hear the tick more plainly at idle.
No one seems to be sure what it is. I've now been told it may even just be normal LS noise but why would it have started suddenly that night?
Anyway...to me my tick/tap sounds like it's coming from low down on the motor and is especially noticeable on the drivers side.
Sorry for the long post but any help would be appreciated.
-Ken
#33
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You may have just finally broken her in.............my car has had a ticking/tapping since I got the car. I have replaced the whole top end and still the ticking continues.
I gave up on getting the noise to stop a long time ago. As hard as it has been driven I'm sure that the motor would have broken a long time ago if something was wrong with it.
all aluminum motors are noisey
I gave up on getting the noise to stop a long time ago. As hard as it has been driven I'm sure that the motor would have broken a long time ago if something was wrong with it.
all aluminum motors are noisey
#34
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You may have just finally broken her in.............my car has had a ticking/tapping since I got the car. I have replaced the whole top end and still the ticking continues.
I gave up on getting the noise to stop a long time ago. As hard as it has been driven I'm sure that the motor would have broken a long time ago if something was wrong with it.
all aluminum motors are noisey
I gave up on getting the noise to stop a long time ago. As hard as it has been driven I'm sure that the motor would have broken a long time ago if something was wrong with it.
all aluminum motors are noisey
Btw...the tick started with about 10k miles on it. The previous owner installed the mods(cam,headers,etc) pretty much right off the show room floor so it went almost 10k "modded" miles without making the tick.
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my car was making a similar noise as this and it ended up being a spun bearing. do you have any copper shavings in your oil. next oil change cut open your oil filter and see if there is anything in there that isnt supposed to be. good luck brother.
#36
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My pan has a magnetic drain plug. When the first lifter swap was done they checked for any shavings on the plug and didn't see anything. Last month when the entire valve train was replaced I don't believe there were any shavings on the plug either. If my bearing are damaged the copper won't stick to a magnet anyway. I'll be sure to check the filter next time.
More details on how the tick started guys:
Basically back on the early spring night the tick started I was having a street tune done on the car which obviously involved some "spirited" driving.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Thinking back to that night one odd thing happened:
During one of the data logging runs, mid-way through the session, the tuner was driving and he had just mashed the go-pedal when suddenly he thought he saw a leo...so he left off quickly and the car shuddered(I was in the car also). Car ran fine afterwards so not much was thought of it and we continued the tuning session. It was later that night, after the car had cooled down, when the tick started and it's been ticking ever since.
Seeing how the valve train is all new that leaves bottom end. Thinking back the car shuddered quite hard that night when he let off the gas.
So hypothetically speaking...I wonder what kind of damage could that have done to the bottom end(pistons,crank,bearings,etc)that would still leave the car making good power(recently laid down 418hp@wheels) yet cause it to tick?
#37
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I hate to say it, but I think it's a common sound on ls1s. My car ticks and you hear it pretty well in the driver's side wheel well.
Maybe someone who knows these motors inside and out can chime in. The oil filter is there, maybe it has something to do with harmonics of the valves slamming shut on more agressive cams/springs that resonates into the crankcase.
Maybe someone who knows these motors inside and out can chime in. The oil filter is there, maybe it has something to do with harmonics of the valves slamming shut on more agressive cams/springs that resonates into the crankcase.
#39
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I hate to say it, but I think it's a common sound on ls1s. My car ticks and you hear it pretty well in the driver's side wheel well.
Maybe someone who knows these motors inside and out can chime in. The oil filter is there, maybe it has something to do with harmonics of the valves slamming shut on more agressive cams/springs that resonates into the crankcase.
Maybe someone who knows these motors inside and out can chime in. The oil filter is there, maybe it has something to do with harmonics of the valves slamming shut on more agressive cams/springs that resonates into the crankcase.
Unless, like what was mentioned earlier, the tick is basically a result of the motor now being "broke-in"...idk.?.?
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I'll probably just take it to the stealership next week and see if now that the valve train is quieter maybe they can pinpoint the sound better.
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If you're car is making more than the 'sewing machine' sound, it is NOT normal. After listening to my car a little closer - it very well could be a spun bearing. In fact, I think there's a very good chance of that.
Anyone know how much work goes into changing those? Is it necessary to pull the motor?
Anyone know how much work goes into changing those? Is it necessary to pull the motor?