Do I really need machine work? *DELETED*
GM designed the LS1 with a flaw ...the ring design sux .....it was recently redesigned to incorporate a new design for the pitons/rings...
I would try to confirm that this is the issue before any major work is performed.......
take it apart and measure all clearances...
also it might be a lifter....cracked block, cam bearing failure, etc...
e-mail me if you need a spec sheet on the engine that gives factory clearances...
robertbartsch@kpmg.com
Then have them rebuild it with at least new bearings, rings, ARP rod bolts, and any other goodies you can afford (cam and springs, etc).
Are there any marks on the tops of the pistons or in the heads? I have heard of rare cases of knocking from things being ingested into the motor.
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BTW, it is for sale... ;P
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The last thing you want to do is have to pull this engine back out because you did not identify the problem.
Good luck.
Tommy
I couldn't prove it, so a brand new LS6 with less than 1,000 miles had to be completely rebuilt on my nickel!It's much better this time around!
Trust me it is best to get it all gone over and everything checked. Are u the one that was told your new ls6 engine destroyed itself as a result of knocking that was purportedly caused by a stock LS1 engine management tune (e.g., a LS1 PCM)?
...So you re-built the new engine?
Please provide a status report...
Thanks...
BTW, it is for sale... ;P
Are u the one that was told your new ls6 engine destroyed itself as a result of knocking that was purportedly caused by a stock LS1 engine management tune (e.g., a LS1 PCM)?
...So you re-built the new engine?
Please provide a status report...
Thanks...

Got it tuned with LS1 Edit this time around - we are headed to the dyno tomorrow to fine tune and see what it will turn.
Track times coming soon too! Ran it once, but we hadn't raised the shift points - it was shifting at 5,800. Also it didn't have Torque management deleted and it is running rich. Ran 12.92 @ 109 in the heat like that. Should be in the 12.60's next time out.
LTs kill the bottom end torque, so with no convertor, it isn't gonna run any super times. All in good time (and budget)! My goal is to run consistent 12.00s.
Great news. can you tell us how the rebuild was done? ...just new bearings, forged pistons, forged rods, rings, valve job,
...exactly what was done?
Great news. can you tell us how the rebuild was done? ...just new bearings, forged pistons, forged rods, rings, valve job,
...exactly what was done?
ARP main and head studs
Lunati NHRA stock class forged pistons
Manley forged rods
Clevite racing bearings
Comp Cams lifters
Plasma Moly file-fit rings
heads shaved .012
Cometic .054 head gaskets
I think that covers it!
By the way - just dynoed 360HP/355ft-lbs at a dyno that is generally 10 under most other dynos.
I'm very happy with that. I'll let you know how it goes at the track Friday night.
....so the head has basically not hurt by the knock condition ....I assume you are running the stock ls6 cam; right?
I am running the stock LS6 cam - it does the job for what I want for the next few years.
I want to stay below a 12.00 for now - no rollbar till the daughter has her own car and doesn't need the back seat!
After that I'll be going with a direct port system and a more N20 friendly cam!

Sorry to hijack the post...







