TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

I have a leak coming out of the front of the oil pan gasket. A shop wanted 450 to change it, but I think im just gonna tackle it myself. Now my questions are: I know you cant remove the pan without dropping the k-member at least a few inches, but is it easier to use a hoist and raise the engine a few inches? And if so where do you attach to hoist to on the engine? And anything else I need to know? Thanks in advance

socmguy

iTrader: (18)

The K member is not too difficult to drop and I think it would be much easier that way. The engine doesn't have much room to go up. While you're in there, I highly suggest you swap out your rod bolts with some ARPs. Cheap insurance my man. The leak may be coming from your front cover where it meets the oil pan. I would replace that first and put a dab of RTV at the joint. **** paying a shop $450, do it yourself. You'll be happier that way. Oh, if you've got the K member down its also not a bad idea to swap out motor mounts too!

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

You cant just slip in a new oil pan gasket. You gotta get around the pick up tube.
If you still have the stock pan, it will still have those pain in the *** rivets holding it in. You might as well pull the whole pan, remove those rivets, clean up your oil pick up screen, clean up your oil pan, and put her back together. You'll have to do 95% of that anyways.

Then again, I only work on Vettes, so i'm not 100% sure if the F-body's have those factory locating pins.

beedo

iTrader: (28)

They have the Factory rivets, but there are no locating pins. Jeff is correct, your better off doing it RIGHT not just half assin it. It really isnt that hard

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you need ARP rod bolts. The stockers are fine until you hit about 6800rpm, and I don't think the OP is spinning that high. The "cheap insurance" will probably be negated by not having a bolt stretch gauge, anyways.

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

I figured it was the same, I just wasnt sure. By locating pins, I meant the rivets.
I usually try to cut the head of the rivet off and re-use the pin itself. It helps keep the gasket in place when manuvering everything. But I usually Fk it up half the time.. But hey, 50% is better than never..

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

But if I drop the k member what keeps the engine from falling on my head? And how hard is it to swap the rod bolts? I plan on doing this myself so detailed info would be great. Is this something I could do with a jack and jack stands?

95 Z28

iTrader: (21)

I've had my pan off twice. Once because a jack went through it and had to get it repaired, the other to install the rod bolts. So I'm getting good at it .

I used a cherry picker to lift/support the engine. I believe I used a couple free bolt holes in the front of the heads to lift it. It worked fine for me. The K had to be lowered a bit. The front bolts I only backed out a few turns, the back bolts I backed out almost all the way, and the middle ones somewhere in the middle. I got sick of ******* around trying to get the motor mount bolts out so I pulled the alternator and the AC compressor. That gave me a lot more room. Had a helping hand (thanks Dad) pry on the K member downwards to give me a little more room to work with, and shimmied the pan out of there. If your planning on modding more in the future, or beating on your car on a regular basis, do yourself a favor and do the rod bolts while you're there. It's only like an hour extra of work, and great piece of mind. I installed ARP Pro Series bolts in my car, and they are working out great. I put them through a lot of stress.

There's an excellent writeup on here somewhere, search for "rod bolt install" or something along those lines and there's a big thread that goes step by step how to pull the pan, as well as do the bolts.

95 Z28

iTrader: (21)

Here. I did it for ya.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...d+install+bolt

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot man, I appreciate it. I dont have access to a cherry picker right now is it possible without one?

dyls1

iTrader: (11)

How far are you from the SFV? If not too far for you you can borrow mine

socmguy

iTrader: (18)

The ARP rod bolts don't go by a stretch rating. You burnish them. They're designed that way so you don't have to have a bolt stretch gauge.

The job is not hard without a cherry picker. I didn't use one. Just put a jack under the bell housing with a block of wood and jacked it up a little. Easy, I've done three so far.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Chances are the leak is not the gasket itself but rather where the front cover meets the pan. You should degrease it and check it out first becuase you may just need some RTV at the joints and you'll save yourself a hell of a lot of work for nothing.

jomomma

iTrader: (39)

i know the oil pan/ front- rear cover alignment is kind of important also

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

yea i noticed that my was leaking from both the front and back of the oil pan...i have a lt1 tho...im guessin is simular in the steps you take to replace it correct?

i might try just degreasing it and putting some rtv on it to see if that works first