Is the added strength of a double timing chain necessary on a hydraulic lifter car? I'll probably run around .57x-.58x lift.

 

Post deleted by 4thGENRETARD

 

When I asked myself the same question, I decided if your going to mess with the timing chain do the best chain you can. For $85 a heat treated 2x Rollmaster can't be beat. The non heat treated on is like $65. This is chickfeed compared to what it cost to fix an engine if a single chain breaks.

 

Is the heat treating really that important as long as I heat cycle a non treated one correctly from the start?

 

heat treated is stronger...its a process they use when they form and make the metal...not heat cycling like you are thinking...

and go double...I have an slp doubble roller chain....going on with the new cam this next weekend.

 

GO TO MY POST ON THIS[BROKEN TIMING CHAIN ?]THIS SHOULD HELP.

 

I'm not looking to start a war in here, but one thing that might be noteworthy just in case you don't know... Lingenfelter puts a STOCK GM timing set on every engine they push out the door. Everything from 400 hp mild street motors, to 800+ hp twin turbo one-off's.

 

LOL, then with a double Roller we could go to 1600Hps

 

Have have also read that the GMAC/Corvette C5-R motors that were used in the 24 hours at LeMans used a single Iwis chain.

After reading about the failed single Rollmaster, I still am a little worried about my single Iwis/Rollmaster chain, but if these were good enough for LeMans, they should be ok in my motor
(I hope)

 

the double is just added insurance. why chance your motor for something that can be easily changed and is pretty cheap

 

Maybe I should start a new thread on this,hope you don't mind Andy,but this question is to Wicked Ls 1 and others... Is it possible that there may have been some episodes in the past of third to second misshifts or other mishaps that could have tweaked the chain before the failure? The reason I ask is because this seems to be a rare problem and just think of all the millions of small block chevy engines, Lt1's, Ls1's etc. that have never had a problem with the stock chain. When I swapped my cam I thought my TC had a lot of slack in it. about 11000 miles, but a tech at the shop I work at, with over 25 years in the industry, 10 as a GM line tech said that my chain looked just like some with under 1000 miles he has seen while addressing other problems. Just curious.

 

Stock chains break.

 

I guess for $20 additional why not go for the added insurance?

Im doing all the possible upgrades I can for my new motor. Especially after Speed, Inc. said it was the largest failure/destruction they have seen for an LS1.

 

on our racing motors we use a jesel setup that is just two teethed gear and a belt. to bad they don't have this setup/ not yet avalible... for ls1's. A good single chain should do you fine.

 

Famous last words (no offence meant). Thats what the shop told Wicked LS 1. Why take the chance when 85 bucks buys a double setup. I did'nt hesitate on mine, while I had the chance, I took it. Plus if you ever decide you want to advance the cam the gear is adjustable.

 

OK i'm sold on the double chain. What about the heat treating and whatever superduper bearing (torrington?) people are using. Reasoning?

 

JWIS single chain here, no problems and stronger than the stock chain. A double roller is overkill IMO and can cause problems with some underdrive pulleys and oil pumps.

 

There's a thread on LS1.com right now about a Rollmaster double chain breaking. Nothing is impervious to breakage. I'm just not personally aware of any stock chain failures, so I'm not really troubled by the idea of the stock chain.

As far as doubles go, I don't like the idea of how tight they are. Have you ever noticed how much slack there is in a NEW stock GM timing set? I mean, I sincerely doubt that was an accident. The aftermarket chains I've installed seem banjo string tight. I would ask myself if GM thought that amount of slack was necessary for thermal cycling of an ALUMINUM block. If so, then that tight chain is going to be wearing the bejeezus out of the front engine bearings. I just haven't torn down an engine that has 50,000 miles of running a Rollmaster double to see if there's accelerated wear, so I can't confirm that, it's just a suspicious thought.

The other thing is that ridiculous hobo-fix oil pump spacer kit. Now matter how hard I try, I just can't get over that. Not to mention that if you're running an ASP pulley you have to get that machined too.. You just have to add up all the hack work involved and ask yourself, "do I really need to do all this?"

- why is there such a difference in chain tension?
- where are all the stock chain failures? (from defect, not from driver error)
- do I really want the hobo-spacer mod in my engine?
- do I really want to machine my pully just to run this chain?
- does Rollmaster have better R&D than GM?

I'm going to put on my kevlar vest now, I'm sure the bullets are about to fly..

 

--Chain tension...the tighter the better the customer will think it is, and as for checking for accelerated wear first youd have to find an LS1 that didnt have partially worn cam bearing to begin with. Too many of these super engines have wear showing on the front bearings.

--havent heard of any stock chains breaking its kinda like the crank.

--No I dont want some ghetto-*** spacer in my block, and I bought the pulley and i wasnt machined for the dbl, and so its staying that way..non machined.

--JWIS, enough said.

 

So you think I should get a $150 chain and leave it at that?