I am starting to plan my winter mods and this time, I want to do a custom cam, but I need your help/advice on which one to get. First, I'll list my current mods and then my cam specs that I came up with.

Current Mods:

Absolute Speed Stg 2 Heads Milled .010
Stock GM Head Gaskets
TR 224 .563 .563 114 lsa Cam
Stock length TR Pushrods
SLP LT Headers with ORP - Changing to Jet-Hot LT headers with ORP in 2-3 weeks
Cutout
GMMG Cat-back
Ported TB
Ported MAF Ends
AirLid
SVO 30lb Injectors
75 Dry Shot of N20 (Tuned with LS1 Edit on a Dyno)

The cams I'm thinking about are:

228 228 .591 .591 114 lsa
228 230 .581 .581 114 lsa (N20 Use???)
230 230 .581 .581 114 lsa
230 230 .591 .591 114 lsa

I really don't use Nitrous on the street, maybe for the occassional rush a few times here and there, but most of my driving is at least 97% N/A. I really only use N20 at the track which is 3-5 times per year. I'm mainly concerned with my N/A numbers, N20 is just icing on the cake for me...

Since I have a stock short block and my heads are milled .010, will I have any problems with any of these cams as in piston to valve clearance issues?

The main reason I want to keep a 114 lsa is because I am very happy with my current TR 224 cam lope/idle.

I'm also considering either a ASP pulley or a new Meizere electric water pump or both if the funds allow at the time.

My current dyno numbers with my current mods are 412 HP & 396 TQ N/A. I hoping once I change my headers, change my cam, add the ASP pulley and maybe do the electric water pump, I can hit 450 HP & 420 TQ N/A. I'm pretty good with LS1 Edit so I think my new goal should be attainable.

Please post any comments/advice/suggestions, and thanks in advance...

Bill

 

Quote: "I am very happy with my current TR 224 cam"
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By the looks of your current mod list, it would seem like you already have a nice street / strip setup.

Ever think of just leaving the car alone?

 

Yes, I'm happy with it, but want a little more power and want more hands on experience with tearing it down again...

 

Tin Indian.....you hit the nail on the head....I have a pretty similar setup and numbers and have been debating a cam swap myself, but really enjoy it now. I have been considering a similiar cam... 228/232/.581/.571/113(+3). I am waiting this time to see if these "big" cams have any side-effects. I would love to be able to drive a car with one in it......

 

Anyone else???

I've talked to Paul at Thunder Racing (great guy) and he says to "play it safe" the biggest I could use with my current setup would be a 230 230 .575 .575 114lsa +4. This cam would use TR's lobe design.

I asked him, what about a 230 230 .581 .581 114lsa +4 and he said it should work, but he can't gurantee it and this cam would use the Comp Cams XER lobe design, which ramps faster and is a tad harder on the springs.

Does anyone have any experience with any of these cams specs. I want this to be the last cam for this short block, next mod, 402 STROKER...

 

You're happy with your TR224's idle. I assume that cam has a 112 LSA and is single pattern (they sell 224 cams with 114 LSA and also with splits)? With a single pattern 228 you're going up on the total duration by 8. I don't believe 2 degrees of LSA is going to make up that much differnce in the idle department. I think that each degree of LSA will make up for about 3 degrees of total duration (I can't remember where I got this number from so someone please enlighten me if I'm off on this.) Therefore, if you really want to keep the idle the same, a 115 LSA should do it.

My pick for a unique cam in this size would be a 230/226 on a 114.5 LSA. It would idle as good as the 112 LSA 224 while giving a good gain in power. Expect to shift at 7000 though.

 

How about doing an LS6 intake and stay wth your current cam for a while?

 

it's an 01 so he already has an LS6 intake

 

He has a 2001, and thus, already has the latest intake manifold (its an LS1 and LS6 intake).

My vote would be to go with a cam that is already proven, unless you are wanting a custom cam just so you can say its a custom cam. Vendors have ordered dozens of cams and tried them all on the dyno for a reason, so rather than bypassing their research (unless you are highly experienced), just get one of their grinds they sell already. If you get a custom cam and it doesnt work out like it should, you're going to be questioning yourself and end up taking it out anyway. If you get a proven cam, well, if something doesnt work out you at least know the cam isnt the problem.

 

LOL
IMO cam design should start with proper valve events....not lobe specs.
What you need to do is sit down & think long & hard about exactly what is going on in the motor & how to improve apon it give the goals that you want. Then find the valve events that fit (this takes knowledge of what VE's effect), THEN find the lobes that match the VEs & ramprates you desire.