Where did you guys get your bolt stretch angle guage
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Where did you guys get your bolt stretch angle guage
I am looking to buy a bolt-stretch angle socket to use to install my head bolts and rod bolts in my lq4 6.0. where did you guys buy yours. The part number for snap ons tool is PN TA-360. I would rather find one a little cheaper but if not the snap on will do. I haven't been able to locate the snap on either.
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If I use arp head studs and arp rod bolts do I need to use a bolt-stretch angle socket or just torque them to specs? It looks like you only need this tool for torque to yield bolts.
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It's called a Torque-Angle gauge and yes it's only needed for TTY bolts. The other tool you may be thinking of is called a rod bolt stretch meter and is needed for proper installation of rod bolts. I actually found a T-A gauge at Pep Boys locally.
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I am looking to buy a bolt-stretch angle socket to use to install my head bolts and rod bolts in my lq4 6.0. where did you guys buy yours. The part number for snap ons tool is PN TA-360. I would rather find one a little cheaper but if not the snap on will do. I haven't been able to locate the snap on either.
Dont go cheap on something so critical, got mine on the Matco truck, you will not regret getting a quality one, mine if I remember ( been a few years ) was around 50 or so.
and yes for torque-yield only
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If you're using torque to yield bolts (ie factory head bolts) then torque them properly and DON'T reuse them! I HAVE seen a cracked block due to improperly torqued head bolts!
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torque to yield bolts -
USE THEM ONCE!
Torque them, then turn the specified degree amount. This puts the correct amount of load/stretch on the bolt to have optimum holding power, ONLY TO BE USED ONCE!
You don't just torque them, then torque some more. They STRETCH. When you torque a STRETCHED bolt, you could break it.. etc.
USE THEM ONCE!
Torque them, then turn the specified degree amount. This puts the correct amount of load/stretch on the bolt to have optimum holding power, ONLY TO BE USED ONCE!
You don't just torque them, then torque some more. They STRETCH. When you torque a STRETCHED bolt, you could break it.. etc.
#11
Just received my Katech rod bolts. Nice lookin' units. Now I'm in the market for a stretch guage. Jegs has the one below for $69. Good enough? Or do I want to go with Snap On or Matco, Mac...etc.?
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I have that jegs rod bolt gauge. It seems accurate. My issue is that it doesn't seem to lock into the center of the bolts, so it's difficult to get it to seat consistently. I've never used another brand, so I can't compare it to anything else.
I also have a Summit torque angle gauge. It's a POS. It wants to bend instead of twist properly, which makes it bind. It's adequate for my usage, but if I biult motors regularly, it would get replaced.
I also have a Summit torque angle gauge. It's a POS. It wants to bend instead of twist properly, which makes it bind. It's adequate for my usage, but if I biult motors regularly, it would get replaced.
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On torque to yeild bolts im pretty sure you can torque them and than there is a spec of how much more to turn them to "stretch" the bolt. Like the rod bolts you toque to 15lbs and than turn an additional 75 degrees for the bolt stretch
#16
The reason for a torque angle instead of a torque measurement in ftlbs or Nm is that you are stretching the bolt beyond the range of elastic deformation (where it would return to its original length) and into plastic deformation, where the bolt material is pulled to the point of yielding and being permanently deformed (stretched). When you do this, the stress/strain curve flattens out until the the material reachs ultimate yield strength. Shortly after this point, it fails. Torque angle is used for this reason, as the difference between ultimate strength and material failure may be only a few ftlbs as measured on the wrench. Torque angle will give more accurate and repeatable results, so that the bolts are neither under or overtorqued (broken) because one person has a better wrench or better "feel" than another.