Head Studs or Bolts?
Head Studs or Bolts? So what is the consensus now? I remember alot of people recommending the use of ARP head studs at one point. Then a few people had problems. What does everyone think about the ARP studs vs ARP bolts?
Re: Head Studs or Bolts? I have ARP head studs in my motor (will install main studs when I rebuild)....
its also the only way I will work on anyone elses car also (if I'm helping with H/C swap....)...GM bolts are too much work and too weak....
its also the only way I will work on anyone elses car also (if I'm helping with H/C swap....)...GM bolts are too much work and too weak....
Re: Head Studs or Bolts? Does using studs as opposed to bolts create a problem with installation and removal of the heads especially adjacent to the firewall at the rear of the heads? On a Dragster or Funny Car you don't have to worry about this, but street cars are different. Is there a clearance issue using studs because of the cowl?
Re: Head Studs or Bolts? I will always recommend a stud over a bolt. Studs take the wear out of the block. When you are working with an aluminum block even more so.
And yes they do allow you to pull the head in place even in a F-body.
They are torqued to about 70-75 ft-lbs. if I remember correctly, thats for the large studs. The small ones are still at 22 ft-lbs.
Oh and the last time I used factory bolts it took 30 minutes atleast just to torque the things down. That was on an engine stand. In the car its more like a hour, it SUCKS!
Ryan K.
And yes they do allow you to pull the head in place even in a F-body.
They are torqued to about 70-75 ft-lbs. if I remember correctly, thats for the large studs. The small ones are still at 22 ft-lbs.
Oh and the last time I used factory bolts it took 30 minutes atleast just to torque the things down. That was on an engine stand. In the car its more like a hour, it SUCKS!
Ryan K.
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Re: Head Studs or Bolts? Just make sure you re-tap the holes in the block before you install the studs or they will not seat correctly.
What you can do (since it’s impossible to find a tap that is long enough to work on our motors) is to take a factory bolt and grind the threads off on two parallel sides. This will make a home-build tap and then you can run it in-and-out a number of times to clean out the holes.
What you can do (since it’s impossible to find a tap that is long enough to work on our motors) is to take a factory bolt and grind the threads off on two parallel sides. This will make a home-build tap and then you can run it in-and-out a number of times to clean out the holes.
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Re: Head Studs or Bolts? good advise Chris, i've done that several times. studs seem like the only way to go here. im sure that the 12 point VS 6 point arguement may arise here also, but it's more a matter of opinion, i think.
studs > bolts
studs > bolts
Re: Head Studs or Bolts?
im sure that the 12 point VS 6 point arguement may arise here also, but it's more a matter of opinion, i think.
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Re: Head Studs or Bolts? i dont see a diffrence, as i am NOT as 12 point fan, in fact im still furious that my rod bolts were 12 points. and those are 16 too many for me. 12 point anything other than bucks = the devil.
Re: Head Studs or Bolts? 12 point nuts/bolt heads are "supposed" to be stronger (less likely to round off) than 6 point because the load of the socket is spread over more area....
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Re: Head Studs or Bolts? Its a real PITA to torque down the stock head bolts, thats for sure. I'm gonna get the studs next time because of how much time it wastes using the stock bolts.
Jordan
Jordan
