Intake/head options for 408, LS3/L92 LS6 FAST 92/92...
#1
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im building a iron 408, and im getting into intakes, and honestly, there are so many options. let me give the run down on my goals
for this year, im going N/A. im going to be running the following
408 iron block with callies compstar crank and rods
diamond pistons (not sure on valve releifs just yet)
Trex cam or something else if i can come up with something
looking at either TSP LS3/L92 heads *OR* TSP PRC LS6 stage 3 heads. this is where the intake decisions come in.
and of course all the bolt ons.
for the future (next winter) im going to be installing a NX direct port kit (350 3 stage for a 10.5 tire, with a custom cam, which is why im going with an off the shelf cam for now.
now for the intakes. if i get the LS6 heads, ill for sure be going with a ported FAST 92/92 setup. great intake for the nitrous kit im going with and great flow.
but if i go with the LS3/L92 heads, i cant use the FAST intake because of the different port design. so my options are
wait to see what Weiand comes up with
GMPP single plane with elbow and 90mm tb
ported L92/LS3 intake with a cable driven 90mm tb.
im just getting into all this so im still kinda in the dark on the newer Gen IV stuff. all opinions are welcome, as well as different ideas. i just need to get on the right track with my build.
for this year, im going N/A. im going to be running the following
408 iron block with callies compstar crank and rods
diamond pistons (not sure on valve releifs just yet)
Trex cam or something else if i can come up with something
looking at either TSP LS3/L92 heads *OR* TSP PRC LS6 stage 3 heads. this is where the intake decisions come in.
and of course all the bolt ons.
for the future (next winter) im going to be installing a NX direct port kit (350 3 stage for a 10.5 tire, with a custom cam, which is why im going with an off the shelf cam for now.
now for the intakes. if i get the LS6 heads, ill for sure be going with a ported FAST 92/92 setup. great intake for the nitrous kit im going with and great flow.
but if i go with the LS3/L92 heads, i cant use the FAST intake because of the different port design. so my options are
wait to see what Weiand comes up with
GMPP single plane with elbow and 90mm tb
ported L92/LS3 intake with a cable driven 90mm tb.
im just getting into all this so im still kinda in the dark on the newer Gen IV stuff. all opinions are welcome, as well as different ideas. i just need to get on the right track with my build.
#3
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http://www.fuelairspark.com/WhatsNew...kemanifold.pdf
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Mostly racing use or mostly street use?
Are you looking for power up to/or past 7,000 RPMs?
I wouldn't wait for Weiand to make anything worthwhile for the LS3/7 crowd.
Oh yeah, did you say what vehicle this is for?
Are you looking for power up to/or past 7,000 RPMs?
I wouldn't wait for Weiand to make anything worthwhile for the LS3/7 crowd.
Oh yeah, did you say what vehicle this is for?
#5
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You havent seen the FAST 102mm for L92/LS3 ports yet have you??? There are pictures of it around and its been at SEMA/PRI. It scheduled for april release.
http://www.fuelairspark.com/WhatsNew...kemanifold.pdf
http://www.fuelairspark.com/WhatsNew...kemanifold.pdf
im looking to make peak power right around 6800-7200 rpm, so i would be shifting around 7500rpm, with a rev limiter set around 8k. its going to be mainly race use, while still being able to drive it to the track, or around town if i want to. its going in a full weight 1998 Z28.
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im looking to make peak power right around 6800-7200 rpm, so i would be shifting around 7500rpm, with a rev limiter set around 8k. its going to be mainly race use, while still being able to drive it to the track, or around town if i want to. its going in a full weight 1998 Z28.
You might as well jump into some LS3/L92 heads, since you should be able to support the larger runner volumes revving past 7k. With the right cam and compression, I would imagine only some mild porting would be necessary to make good power. Assuming your rear gearing will be in the 4.10-4.56 range, you should be able to have liveable street manners with plenty of useable top end above 3,500-3,800 RPM.
With the popularity of these newer, bigger heads, and their almost budget pricing compared to aftermarket heads, I would think you would be able to experiment with different intake combinations without going broke. The LS3/L76 intakes are cheap, and I believe GMPP has a single plane EFI intake that is not very expensive.
You could start by cutting the bottom out of a plastic GM intake and porting it thoroughly (still, it may be maxxed out around 7,200 RPM). Then later, if you are willing to give up some more low-end, you can try a single plane w/elbow, or even the flexibilty to try a 4bbl throttle body (also, I think someone makes a wicked, custom, two bladed, open venturi, carb style TB). Eventually getting into a new FAST intake if they prove to be worth the effort/expense (and maybe get back some streetability without loosing too much top-end).
With the impressive gains seen in the stock LS7s with just a cam change (a streetable cam, at that!), I don't see any advantage to staying with the LS1 based heads/intakes. Even though you are not massively bored/stroked, your 4.00"+ bore, intended race use, and extended RPM range still make for a capable combination that is not really going into 'uncharted territory' with overly questionable results. Enough success has been proven with L92 based builds to warrant it in your case.
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very good insight. i will read over this more and do some research on everything. my main concern is tho, i talked to TEA, and he brought up a good point, if i stay with a stock casting, i am going to have lift problems when i go to hit the juice. im plannig next year on spraying around a 350-400 shot in 3 stages.
also, while i was on the phone, he mentioned a cost effective way to go was with "as cast" TFS 225 heads. he said they will make good numbers N/A as well as be stable enough to handle the juice. and next year when i install the nitrous, i can take them off and have them CNC ported by them to maxamize flow.
also, while i was on the phone, he mentioned a cost effective way to go was with "as cast" TFS 225 heads. he said they will make good numbers N/A as well as be stable enough to handle the juice. and next year when i install the nitrous, i can take them off and have them CNC ported by them to maxamize flow.
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Yep, I forgot about your nitrous desires (I am a diehard N/A guy).
Yes, anything over a 250 shot is going to be pushing HARD. Though, even the thickest of aftermarket castings are going to be "holding on for dear life" with a 400 shot. Regardless of staging, I can't imagine head gaskets lasting long under such conditions. You may be a serious candidate for a 6-bolt build-up (Warhawk block and heads?).
I guess it may depend on what you are willing to spend now, and whether you want to progressively upgrade, buying and selling your way to your final goal (with the remote possibility that you may be satisfied to 'stop' somewhere in-between). I would also guess that periodic teardowns would be in order, giving you ample opportunities to make changes and/or upgrades (gradual or otherwise).
Are you able to perform your own... or be involved with... tuning/programming/dyno-ing? The learning curve here could be staggering, but would certainly give you insight as to what you really need, as opposed to what you feel you want.
Yes, anything over a 250 shot is going to be pushing HARD. Though, even the thickest of aftermarket castings are going to be "holding on for dear life" with a 400 shot. Regardless of staging, I can't imagine head gaskets lasting long under such conditions. You may be a serious candidate for a 6-bolt build-up (Warhawk block and heads?).
I guess it may depend on what you are willing to spend now, and whether you want to progressively upgrade, buying and selling your way to your final goal (with the remote possibility that you may be satisfied to 'stop' somewhere in-between). I would also guess that periodic teardowns would be in order, giving you ample opportunities to make changes and/or upgrades (gradual or otherwise).
Are you able to perform your own... or be involved with... tuning/programming/dyno-ing? The learning curve here could be staggering, but would certainly give you insight as to what you really need, as opposed to what you feel you want.
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for the next year or so, i will have access to my own dyno, but not my own tuning equipment. im beginning to think maybe a big hit of nitrous may be a bit further down the road than next winter. i would love to do a 6 bolt setup, just not in my budget right now. and i dont want to risk a 3k bottom end over something so silly as head gaskets while spraying.
im, thinking now, just building a serious N/A setup, squeezing the **** out of the mix and maybe hitting it with a 175 shot for now. get a good cam in there, with the LS3/L92 heads, going with an LS3 intake with a 102mm cable TB for now untill the 102 FAST comes out. i would like to have high 10's on the motor, and shoot for low 10's on the 175 shot. i was shooting for high 10's on the motor, and mid 8's on the 3 stage, but it looks like its going to push my reliability goals out the door. (i dont want to be rebuilding this thing like john force's motors.)
im, thinking now, just building a serious N/A setup, squeezing the **** out of the mix and maybe hitting it with a 175 shot for now. get a good cam in there, with the LS3/L92 heads, going with an LS3 intake with a 102mm cable TB for now untill the 102 FAST comes out. i would like to have high 10's on the motor, and shoot for low 10's on the 175 shot. i was shooting for high 10's on the motor, and mid 8's on the 3 stage, but it looks like its going to push my reliability goals out the door. (i dont want to be rebuilding this thing like john force's motors.)
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i'm upgrading my 408. fast to sheetmetal, tfs 225 to tfs 235, bigger cam, 12:1 comp. i dont drive my car on the street much unless its down the road or to a street race like once a year. mostly track use, so thats why i'm goin with a more radical setup. just depends on what ya want. kinda just have to narrow it down to what you like to do the most. race it, or drive it.
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i think i've decided on my setup.
im going to go with TFS as cast heads and hit it with a small shot of nitrous. probably 200 horse. and go with the GMPP single plane intake with nitrousworks or whatever the company is, elbow with a 90 some odd mm TB, for now, and maybe upgrade to a 6 bolt setup next year. or i might just have the intake plumbed for a direct port kit with a progressive controler and hit it with 325, and see what happens. if it blows it blows, its a reason to upgrade, if it doesnt blow, im good to go.
im going to go with TFS as cast heads and hit it with a small shot of nitrous. probably 200 horse. and go with the GMPP single plane intake with nitrousworks or whatever the company is, elbow with a 90 some odd mm TB, for now, and maybe upgrade to a 6 bolt setup next year. or i might just have the intake plumbed for a direct port kit with a progressive controler and hit it with 325, and see what happens. if it blows it blows, its a reason to upgrade, if it doesnt blow, im good to go.
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i think i've decided on my setup.
im going to go with TFS as cast heads and hit it with a small shot of nitrous. probably 200 horse. and go with the GMPP single plane intake with nitrousworks or whatever the company is, elbow with a 90 some odd mm TB, for now, and maybe upgrade to a 6 bolt setup next year. or i might just have the intake plumbed for a direct port kit with a progressive controler and hit it with 325, and see what happens. if it blows it blows, its a reason to upgrade, if it doesnt blow, im good to go.
im going to go with TFS as cast heads and hit it with a small shot of nitrous. probably 200 horse. and go with the GMPP single plane intake with nitrousworks or whatever the company is, elbow with a 90 some odd mm TB, for now, and maybe upgrade to a 6 bolt setup next year. or i might just have the intake plumbed for a direct port kit with a progressive controler and hit it with 325, and see what happens. if it blows it blows, its a reason to upgrade, if it doesnt blow, im good to go.
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You could put that engine in the car and we could give you a mail order tune to get it up and running, then you could bring it over and we could dyno tune it for you. This would save you a lot of money. Bob