Rods dont clear Canton oil pan in the front
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
Rods dont clear Canton oil pan in the front I finally got my windage tray to clear all the rods like i wanted and still have enough stud sticking out the tops of the nuts to make me happy and i go to fit up my oil pan and the front two rods hit the freakin' pan 
What do you all think i should do? Cut out the part where it hits and weld in a new piece that will allow clearance? try a different brand of oil pan? sell it and buy a stock one? ditch the whole build and buy a Prius?
What do you all think i should do? Cut out the part where it hits and weld in a new piece that will allow clearance? try a different brand of oil pan? sell it and buy a stock one? ditch the whole build and buy a Prius?
I am going to have the same problem with my 440 LS7 that i bought for LME. They told me something how to fix that, i do not remember what they said, but give them a call and i am sure they will help out!
What oil pan do you have that is not working ? so i can stay away from it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
i think this is just a common problem with high-end, large displacement motors...i'd say 95% of aftermarket parts are designed with stock stroke or 4" stroke combos. i've not been working on it as much as i'd like, but the last two or three times i have, it's been trying to make the windage tray clear. i finally got it where i like it last night and it just so happened that when i stopped rotating the engine, the first two rods where at the bottom of their stroke and hit the pan when i test fitted it 
The Canton pans are notorious for that problem. I would try the Moroso pan. It is a much nicer setup for high end strokers anyway with a much better sump design with a new pickup and windage tray included. It also has a 3/8" pan rail and the AN fittings are already welded in place. Its not on our website but we do have them in stock.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
The Canton pans are notorious for that problem. I would try the Moroso pan. It is a much nicer setup for high end strokers anyway with a much better sump design with a new pickup and windage tray included. It also has a 3/8" pan rail and the AN fittings are already welded in place. Its not on our website but we do have them in stock.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
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Verdad Gallardo That's the part. It should clear the 4.125" stroke with steel rods. I'm not sure what our price is since I'm not in the office right now. I know I have one in stock though. Let me know if you need anything. I have one on an LS7 based TransAm at the shop. I could send pics with the remote oil filter setup and such.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
i think an item like this would be difficult to mark down enough for most of us to buy it on a whim...but if we could get a GP together it might make it worth a vendor's time/effot. i can't imagine that there are enough people around needing a $5xx or $6xx oil pan right now...probably just going to order one from summit after i sell mine i guess...
go with the prius 
..... Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
it still needs modifing with a 4.1"? how much modifing is required? i've got another .025" of stroke to deal with, not much, but it counts. do you have any pics or info from them about what has to be done to it?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
....and is there NOT a pan that will clear a 4.125" stroke?...besides the stock one...or will it even clear? i know i'm not the only one to have had this problem...
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
grind the windage tray a little? i had to put 4 washers uner it on each main stud AND beat the living **** out of it with a hammer for it to clear my rotating assy:
you can see here how it looks 'ballooned' out, that's because it is, a LOT. it's actually kind of hard to tell just how much i had to do it to without a stock, unmodified one next to it, but it's a LOT...
and here you can see where the rod BOLTS (not the rod itself) hit the pan in two places. it hit then stopped, if it were able to keep turning, i would imagine it would puncture the pan:
you can see here how it looks 'ballooned' out, that's because it is, a LOT. it's actually kind of hard to tell just how much i had to do it to without a stock, unmodified one next to it, but it's a LOT...
and here you can see where the rod BOLTS (not the rod itself) hit the pan in two places. it hit then stopped, if it were able to keep turning, i would imagine it would puncture the pan:
The Moroso pan and windage tray should clear no problem. I know the price sounds steep but as far as I know, its the only option that will work without major modification.
Shane
Shane
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
i guess i'll go ahead and sell the Canton pan if i can. what i hate about the whole deal is, i'm going to have to lose a little money on the Canton pan to get rid of it, and on top of that, IF the Moroso pan DOESN'T work for some reason and i have to sell it for a stocker, then i'll lose money on it too i'm sure. i hate to do crap like that, i just wish i knew definitively that the Moroso would work. Gordon0652 says it works on his 4.100" crank, but mine is tad bigger, 4.125", and a different block/crank/rods/bolts...it might NOT fit, knowing my luck lately anyway