http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5627/364balancer.jpg

i blocked the flexplate from moving and i cranked down on it with a breaker bar until my bar started to bend. i have no torque wrench that goes up to the 235 ft lbs necessary.

how are you guys getting your balancers on all the way short of a 1/2 inch impact gun.

 

That's doesn't look nearly all the way on. What bolt were you using to crank down the pulley? The pulley should pull onto the crank snout nice and smooth all the way until it is fully seated. I have a bad feeling that you may have damaged the crank threads. I find it's best to use a grade 10.9 16x2.00x110 bolt.

 

the threads are not damaged. it is an arp bolt that replaces the stock GM bolt. there was a notch for a keyway in the pulley, but no keyway on the crank. does it matter which way it goes on?

 

Does the serpentine belt look like it's "aligned"? If it looks like it's on straight with relation to the other accessory pullies, I say don't wory about it. Also, the keyway is used on aftermarket cranks...no worries on a stock crankshaft.

 

it does look like it is aligned. i'm going to take an impact to it just to be safe.

this is the only picture i have showing anything pertaining to alignment:

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/699/3644810.jpg

 

I think he is right I measured mine over and over and over. Looks just like that. Finally decided as long as the belt tracked fine I was done. Have had no problems with mine.

 

In that case, if the bolt went in freely, and it's all the way in, then it surely is seated properly. It just looks like it's sticking out further than the stock balancer. Good news is once you fire it up you'll know pretty quickly if it's all the way in or not

 

what's the stock belt size on an l92/truck setup? 90 inch? i'm sure i need to go a couple inches smaller with this smaller balancer pulley and smaller power steering pump pulley i'm using.

 

Around 93.5 inches with the 145 amp alt

 

ok that gives me a baseline. i have the 160 amp alternator from a tahoe.

 

Did you lube the ID of the pulley before intalling? And the contact shoulder of the bolt? Should slide on if properly lubed and the bore is the correct dimension from the factory.

 

yessir. i am relatively new to LS engines, but no stranger to basic procedures like putting a balancer on. the balancer i have is the truck version, so it is supposed to stick out further, i just don't know how much further.

 

If you put it on with an impact you can hear when it bottoms out. Also eyeball across the other pulleys and see if they appear to align.

My Camaro and Corvette do not hang out that far but not sure about the trucks.

 

I have the same pulley, you've got a alot more to go. I have no issues with belts. Keep going! I didn't want to use an impact. I did it by hand BUT I also had a flywheel lock.

 

The crank seal in the cover and the inner hub of the balancer must be mated or you will have a massive oil leak. Its hard to tell from the picture but you can see there is clearly a bigger section of hub thats hanging outside the seal. Im thinking this piece of the hub needs to be completely through the seal. However from the pics it is hard to tell. I will say, the machining tolerances are so close that if the balancer starts and is a little crooked, it will feel as if its bottoming out relatively quick. In my experience, its best to pull it back off, lube the crank snout and start over, being very careful in making sure its started extremely straight. Be patient and it will go. Using a longer bolt or a bolt in general is not the correct way to install this balancer.

 

you have the same pulley, but for a car right? that is different. the truck one sticks out further.

 

You still need the hub of the balancer to go into the timing cover seal as 01SSReda4 states. Its common sense. If you insist on saying its seated fully like the link shows on your original post, just RUN in. I am not trying to insult you, its just clearly in the cover/seal. R you sure the balancer is the correct one?

 

I'm not a fan of the ARP bolts for the crank pulley... and here's my rationale behind it...

the stock GM crank pulley bolt is a fastener... I think that the bolt actually stretches, slightly, as you tighten the living **** out of it and thus that provides its fastening power. I.E. as you tighten, the bolt stretches slightly and effectively clamps the pulley to the crank snout.

I don't think the ARP bolt does that... it's strong as ****, but I think sometimes that isn't necessarily a good thing.

oh and that pulley isn't anywhere CLOSE to being on...

 

relax cuz, i didn't insist on anything. a couple facts for you though: his balancer is different, sticks out less than my truck style which is the correct one, and his picture does not show the side like mine does. i ran the engine and there was no oil leak. i will see how the serp belt lines up when i get to it.

 

Then what's the point of buying ARP head studs/bolts or ARP rod bolts??? Not only because of their strength but also their clamping force...


To the OP: There's gotta be a keyway on your crank the oil pump drive gear slides over it and so does the balancer...make sure you have it lined up correctly....