500rwhp on a stock bottom LS2 GTO
#1
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Alright guys need some input I have a 2005 GTO M6 car and I want hit 500 rwhp in this thing NA. I know it can be done with the right parts and tuner. I also know that there will be some draw back as far as drivablity but I am willing to deal with it. As for parts here is my list.
SNL V.x cam
PRC 237 heads with metal guides
FAST 102 & NW TB
hardend push rods
ARH 1-7/8 headers catless mids
morel lifters
SNL 100 mm CAI and blade maf
fast 57#ers
LPE pump
harland sharp trunion upgrade
That's all i can think of right now. Is there anything I should add or subtract? Thanks for the input.
SNL V.x cam
PRC 237 heads with metal guides
FAST 102 & NW TB
hardend push rods
ARH 1-7/8 headers catless mids
morel lifters
SNL 100 mm CAI and blade maf
fast 57#ers
LPE pump
harland sharp trunion upgrade
That's all i can think of right now. Is there anything I should add or subtract? Thanks for the input.
Last edited by munciegoat; 01-23-2011 at 10:33 AM.
#2
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Alright guys need some input I have a 2005 GTO M6 car and I want hit 500 rwhp in this thing NA. I know it can be done with the right parts and tuner. I also know that there will be some draw back as far as drivablity but I am willing to deal with it. As for parts here is my list.
SNL V.x cam
PRC 227 heads with metal guides
FAST 102 & NW TB
hardend push rods
100mm maf or SD tune
ARH 1-7/8 headers catless mids
morel lifters
vararam
That's all i can think of right now. Is there anything I should add or subtract? Thanks for the input.
SNL V.x cam
PRC 227 heads with metal guides
FAST 102 & NW TB
hardend push rods
100mm maf or SD tune
ARH 1-7/8 headers catless mids
morel lifters
vararam
That's all i can think of right now. Is there anything I should add or subtract? Thanks for the input.
Bozz
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you should be there. In my old ls1 gto with PRC ls6 stage II 59cc heads, 244/242 cam, Fast 90, NW 90 TB, Kooks 1 7/8 with catless mids and Corsa sport in a m6 put down 478rwhp. So with more cubes and bigger intake manifold and better heads I think you are there for sure.
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#9
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Drivability with a donkey dick cam in my openion is better with a manual car. Automatics have to be stalled sometimes to the point where the car is just not going to be fun anymore but with a good tuner any thing is possible IMHO.
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Ive got a very similar list of parts. Ive had my car on two dynos, both with nearly identical results. I think ive got a freakish set of 243s or the previous owner had them worked on though. Besides that the car was stock, or converted back to stock when i got it. Im at 473whp right now, getting ready to put some mamo-fied cnc afr 215s milled down to 62cc to hopefully push me over the 500 mark.Ive got the same fuel system as you plan and it works perfect with room to grow. The only thing i would advise, is if you PLAN on getting the nw tb, id save the cash and invest it into an electric water pump or towards a driveshaft. Those big throttle bodys are good for big cubes, but on stock displacement 90mm is more than suffice.
Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from what i can recall.
As far as the tuning on a donkey dick cam. Ive had some extensive tuning on mine, and it still sucks ***** to drive daily. I use the car to drive fast so its not a huge deal to me. Getting stuck in a traffic jam makes me want to get into a hot tub with a toaster though. The whole G6X3+ ultra light flywheel+3200lb 6 puck clutch combo is the cause of that though.
If you do decide to avoid the 500 dollar throttle body, look into a vmax velocity ring. Some people will blast on them, but ive personally had with and without one. With one the whole pulling to a stop and it searching for idle is almost never present. Before, without the ring my car consistently searched for idle any time i abruptly ditched the accelerator for the clutch pedal. Quite a few seconds at times too, reving up and down.
Im sorry if my advice is towards changing stuff. I didnt know if these were parts you are adding, or parts you are looking at adding. Just figured i would share some stuff i have discovered. Some of those big cams + a 102 intake on the ls2 blocks are starting to get steep numbers. The intakes work awesome. I had a HUGE increase from adding the intake and fuel system stuff.
Good luck dude!
Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from what i can recall.
As far as the tuning on a donkey dick cam. Ive had some extensive tuning on mine, and it still sucks ***** to drive daily. I use the car to drive fast so its not a huge deal to me. Getting stuck in a traffic jam makes me want to get into a hot tub with a toaster though. The whole G6X3+ ultra light flywheel+3200lb 6 puck clutch combo is the cause of that though.
If you do decide to avoid the 500 dollar throttle body, look into a vmax velocity ring. Some people will blast on them, but ive personally had with and without one. With one the whole pulling to a stop and it searching for idle is almost never present. Before, without the ring my car consistently searched for idle any time i abruptly ditched the accelerator for the clutch pedal. Quite a few seconds at times too, reving up and down.
Im sorry if my advice is towards changing stuff. I didnt know if these were parts you are adding, or parts you are looking at adding. Just figured i would share some stuff i have discovered. Some of those big cams + a 102 intake on the ls2 blocks are starting to get steep numbers. The intakes work awesome. I had a HUGE increase from adding the intake and fuel system stuff.
Good luck dude!
#11
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Ive got a very similar list of parts. Ive had my car on two dynos, both with nearly identical results. I think ive got a freakish set of 243s or the previous owner had them worked on though. Besides that the car was stock, or converted back to stock when i got it. Im at 473whp right now, getting ready to put some mamo-fied cnc afr 215s milled down to 62cc to hopefully push me over the 500 mark.Ive got the same fuel system as you plan and it works perfect with room to grow. The only thing i would advise, is if you PLAN on getting the nw tb, id save the cash and invest it into an electric water pump or towards a driveshaft. Those big throttle bodys are good for big cubes, but on stock displacement 90mm is more than suffice.
Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from what i can recall.
As far as the tuning on a donkey dick cam. Ive had some extensive tuning on mine, and it still sucks ***** to drive daily. I use the car to drive fast so its not a huge deal to me. Getting stuck in a traffic jam makes me want to get into a hot tub with a toaster though. The whole G6X3+ ultra light flywheel+3200lb 6 puck clutch combo is the cause of that though.
If you do decide to avoid the 500 dollar throttle body, look into a vmax velocity ring. Some people will blast on them, but ive personally had with and without one. With one the whole pulling to a stop and it searching for idle is almost never present. Before, without the ring my car consistently searched for idle any time i abruptly ditched the accelerator for the clutch pedal. Quite a few seconds at times too, reving up and down.
Im sorry if my advice is towards changing stuff. I didnt know if these were parts you are adding, or parts you are looking at adding. Just figured i would share some stuff i have discovered. Some of those big cams + a 102 intake on the ls2 blocks are starting to get steep numbers. The intakes work awesome. I had a HUGE increase from adding the intake and fuel system stuff.
Good luck dude!
Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from what i can recall.
As far as the tuning on a donkey dick cam. Ive had some extensive tuning on mine, and it still sucks ***** to drive daily. I use the car to drive fast so its not a huge deal to me. Getting stuck in a traffic jam makes me want to get into a hot tub with a toaster though. The whole G6X3+ ultra light flywheel+3200lb 6 puck clutch combo is the cause of that though.
If you do decide to avoid the 500 dollar throttle body, look into a vmax velocity ring. Some people will blast on them, but ive personally had with and without one. With one the whole pulling to a stop and it searching for idle is almost never present. Before, without the ring my car consistently searched for idle any time i abruptly ditched the accelerator for the clutch pedal. Quite a few seconds at times too, reving up and down.
Im sorry if my advice is towards changing stuff. I didnt know if these were parts you are adding, or parts you are looking at adding. Just figured i would share some stuff i have discovered. Some of those big cams + a 102 intake on the ls2 blocks are starting to get steep numbers. The intakes work awesome. I had a HUGE increase from adding the intake and fuel system stuff.
Good luck dude!
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Good info RX666. The biggest problem that I have is that the car loads up on fuel around town in traffic. It's an auto so alittle different animal. I just have to get on it and clear it out and its fine for awhile. No other problems and it will pull even at low rpms in OD. Sometimes it gets in the stall range and has trouble if the convetor doesn't lock up. Usally just down shfit and its ok. Its a 242/250 cam. Gotta love big cam cars when they come up on it. Mine pulls hard at 4000-7000.
I would stay with the 90mm T.B and MAF. The MAF will adapt to changing weather conditions better then SD. MAF is just better for a street driven car.
I would stay with the 90mm T.B and MAF. The MAF will adapt to changing weather conditions better then SD. MAF is just better for a street driven car.
#14
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good info rx666. The biggest problem that i have is that the car loads up on fuel around town in traffic. It's an auto so alittle different animal. I just have to get on it and clear it out and its fine for awhile. No other problems and it will pull even at low rpms in od. Sometimes it gets in the stall range and has trouble if the convetor doesn't lock up. Usally just down shfit and its ok. Its a 242/250 cam. Gotta love big cam cars when they come up on it. Mine pulls hard at 4000-7000.
I would stay with the 90mm t.b and maf. The maf will adapt to changing weather conditions better then sd. Maf is just better for a street driven car.
I would stay with the 90mm t.b and maf. The maf will adapt to changing weather conditions better then sd. Maf is just better for a street driven car.
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speed denisty might be alot more beneficial in a vehicle that is using a camshaft with alot of overlap, lift, and duration.
the maf also lags alot for transiet throttle changes.
with a 102 throttle body and a setup like the op he might like the "feel" of a speed density tune alot more then a maf and sd hybrid tune.
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what is e85 availability like up in muncie? i always fill up before i leave fishers for the track.
might want to grab an UDP and as mentioned already an EWP to free up a few more horses.
talk to joe6.0 on IGH... he did a damn good job when he tuned my car and may have some thoughts on some of your mods.
good luck! cant wait to see this thing at the track this year!
might want to grab an UDP and as mentioned already an EWP to free up a few more horses.
talk to joe6.0 on IGH... he did a damn good job when he tuned my car and may have some thoughts on some of your mods.
good luck! cant wait to see this thing at the track this year!
#17
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what is e85 availability like up in muncie? i always fill up before i leave fishers for the track.
might want to grab an UDP and as mentioned already an EWP to free up a few more horses.
talk to joe6.0 on IGH... he did a damn good job when he tuned my car and may have some thoughts on some of your mods.
good luck! cant wait to see this thing at the track this year!
might want to grab an UDP and as mentioned already an EWP to free up a few more horses.
talk to joe6.0 on IGH... he did a damn good job when he tuned my car and may have some thoughts on some of your mods.
good luck! cant wait to see this thing at the track this year!
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why?
speed denisty might be alot more beneficial in a vehicle that is using a camshaft with alot of overlap, lift, and duration.
the maf also lags alot for transiet throttle changes.
with a 102 throttle body and a setup like the op he might like the "feel" of a speed density tune alot more then a maf and sd hybrid tune.
speed denisty might be alot more beneficial in a vehicle that is using a camshaft with alot of overlap, lift, and duration.
the maf also lags alot for transiet throttle changes.
with a 102 throttle body and a setup like the op he might like the "feel" of a speed density tune alot more then a maf and sd hybrid tune.
Good info lets hear some more.