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500rwhp on a stock bottom LS2 GTO

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Old 01-19-2011, 12:23 PM
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Default 500rwhp on a stock bottom LS2 GTO

Alright guys need some input I have a 2005 GTO M6 car and I want hit 500 rwhp in this thing NA. I know it can be done with the right parts and tuner. I also know that there will be some draw back as far as drivablity but I am willing to deal with it. As for parts here is my list.

SNL V.x cam
PRC 237 heads with metal guides
FAST 102 & NW TB
hardend push rods
ARH 1-7/8 headers catless mids
morel lifters
SNL 100 mm CAI and blade maf
fast 57#ers
LPE pump
harland sharp trunion upgrade

That's all i can think of right now. Is there anything I should add or subtract? Thanks for the input.

Last edited by munciegoat; 01-23-2011 at 10:33 AM.
Old 01-19-2011, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by munciegoat
Alright guys need some input I have a 2005 GTO M6 car and I want hit 500 rwhp in this thing NA. I know it can be done with the right parts and tuner. I also know that there will be some draw back as far as drivablity but I am willing to deal with it. As for parts here is my list.

SNL V.x cam
PRC 227 heads with metal guides
FAST 102 & NW TB
hardend push rods
100mm maf or SD tune
ARH 1-7/8 headers catless mids
morel lifters
vararam

That's all i can think of right now. Is there anything I should add or subtract? Thanks for the input.
Hell you should be there or very close......

Bozz
Old 01-19-2011, 02:03 PM
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new fuel rails and larger injectors
Old 01-19-2011, 02:13 PM
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you should be there. In my old ls1 gto with PRC ls6 stage II 59cc heads, 244/242 cam, Fast 90, NW 90 TB, Kooks 1 7/8 with catless mids and Corsa sport in a m6 put down 478rwhp. So with more cubes and bigger intake manifold and better heads I think you are there for sure.
Old 01-19-2011, 02:18 PM
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Forgot about the fueling.I am going with fast 46#ers and rails with a LPE pump.
Old 01-19-2011, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by munciegoat
Forgot about the fueling.I am going with fast 46#ers and rails with a LPE pump.
I figured or was hopping you were upgrading the injectors when I saw the fast intake.....

Bozz
Old 01-19-2011, 06:44 PM
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How much "drivability" is sacrificed when shooting for 500 wheel?
Old 01-19-2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Zbinkley
How much "drivability" is sacrificed when shooting for 500 wheel?
It won't be the best thing to drive around town, but with the right tuner dialing it in, it can perform much better than you would think.
Old 01-19-2011, 08:30 PM
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Drivability with a donkey dick cam in my openion is better with a manual car. Automatics have to be stalled sometimes to the point where the car is just not going to be fun anymore but with a good tuner any thing is possible IMHO.
Old 01-20-2011, 10:35 AM
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Ive got a very similar list of parts. Ive had my car on two dynos, both with nearly identical results. I think ive got a freakish set of 243s or the previous owner had them worked on though. Besides that the car was stock, or converted back to stock when i got it. Im at 473whp right now, getting ready to put some mamo-fied cnc afr 215s milled down to 62cc to hopefully push me over the 500 mark.Ive got the same fuel system as you plan and it works perfect with room to grow. The only thing i would advise, is if you PLAN on getting the nw tb, id save the cash and invest it into an electric water pump or towards a driveshaft. Those big throttle bodys are good for big cubes, but on stock displacement 90mm is more than suffice.

Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from what i can recall.

As far as the tuning on a donkey dick cam. Ive had some extensive tuning on mine, and it still sucks ***** to drive daily. I use the car to drive fast so its not a huge deal to me. Getting stuck in a traffic jam makes me want to get into a hot tub with a toaster though. The whole G6X3+ ultra light flywheel+3200lb 6 puck clutch combo is the cause of that though.

If you do decide to avoid the 500 dollar throttle body, look into a vmax velocity ring. Some people will blast on them, but ive personally had with and without one. With one the whole pulling to a stop and it searching for idle is almost never present. Before, without the ring my car consistently searched for idle any time i abruptly ditched the accelerator for the clutch pedal. Quite a few seconds at times too, reving up and down.

Im sorry if my advice is towards changing stuff. I didnt know if these were parts you are adding, or parts you are looking at adding. Just figured i would share some stuff i have discovered. Some of those big cams + a 102 intake on the ls2 blocks are starting to get steep numbers. The intakes work awesome. I had a HUGE increase from adding the intake and fuel system stuff.


Good luck dude!
Old 01-20-2011, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RX666
Ive got a very similar list of parts. Ive had my car on two dynos, both with nearly identical results. I think ive got a freakish set of 243s or the previous owner had them worked on though. Besides that the car was stock, or converted back to stock when i got it. Im at 473whp right now, getting ready to put some mamo-fied cnc afr 215s milled down to 62cc to hopefully push me over the 500 mark.Ive got the same fuel system as you plan and it works perfect with room to grow. The only thing i would advise, is if you PLAN on getting the nw tb, id save the cash and invest it into an electric water pump or towards a driveshaft. Those big throttle bodys are good for big cubes, but on stock displacement 90mm is more than suffice.

Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from what i can recall.

As far as the tuning on a donkey dick cam. Ive had some extensive tuning on mine, and it still sucks ***** to drive daily. I use the car to drive fast so its not a huge deal to me. Getting stuck in a traffic jam makes me want to get into a hot tub with a toaster though. The whole G6X3+ ultra light flywheel+3200lb 6 puck clutch combo is the cause of that though.

If you do decide to avoid the 500 dollar throttle body, look into a vmax velocity ring. Some people will blast on them, but ive personally had with and without one. With one the whole pulling to a stop and it searching for idle is almost never present. Before, without the ring my car consistently searched for idle any time i abruptly ditched the accelerator for the clutch pedal. Quite a few seconds at times too, reving up and down.

Im sorry if my advice is towards changing stuff. I didnt know if these were parts you are adding, or parts you are looking at adding. Just figured i would share some stuff i have discovered. Some of those big cams + a 102 intake on the ls2 blocks are starting to get steep numbers. The intakes work awesome. I had a HUGE increase from adding the intake and fuel system stuff.


Good luck dude!
THANKS for the input RX666. Currently I have not pulled the trigger on any parts right now so if I change some stuff or if someone suggests something different I am all ears. I am just looking for opinions and experiences.
Old 01-20-2011, 12:05 PM
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No problem. Glad to help!
Old 01-21-2011, 01:21 PM
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Good info RX666. The biggest problem that I have is that the car loads up on fuel around town in traffic. It's an auto so alittle different animal. I just have to get on it and clear it out and its fine for awhile. No other problems and it will pull even at low rpms in OD. Sometimes it gets in the stall range and has trouble if the convetor doesn't lock up. Usally just down shfit and its ok. Its a 242/250 cam. Gotta love big cam cars when they come up on it. Mine pulls hard at 4000-7000.

I would stay with the 90mm T.B and MAF. The MAF will adapt to changing weather conditions better then SD. MAF is just better for a street driven car.
Old 01-21-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1lejohn
good info rx666. The biggest problem that i have is that the car loads up on fuel around town in traffic. It's an auto so alittle different animal. I just have to get on it and clear it out and its fine for awhile. No other problems and it will pull even at low rpms in od. Sometimes it gets in the stall range and has trouble if the convetor doesn't lock up. Usally just down shfit and its ok. Its a 242/250 cam. Gotta love big cam cars when they come up on it. Mine pulls hard at 4000-7000.

I would stay with the 90mm t.b and maf. The maf will adapt to changing weather conditions better then sd. Maf is just better for a street driven car.
thanks
Old 01-21-2011, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RX666
Id avoid speed density as well. Get yourself a ls3 style blade maf and a maf housing for it. Much less restrictive and cheaper from .

Good luck dude!
why?

speed denisty might be alot more beneficial in a vehicle that is using a camshaft with alot of overlap, lift, and duration.

the maf also lags alot for transiet throttle changes.
with a 102 throttle body and a setup like the op he might like the "feel" of a speed density tune alot more then a maf and sd hybrid tune.
Old 01-23-2011, 07:58 AM
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what is e85 availability like up in muncie? i always fill up before i leave fishers for the track.

might want to grab an UDP and as mentioned already an EWP to free up a few more horses.

talk to joe6.0 on IGH... he did a damn good job when he tuned my car and may have some thoughts on some of your mods.

good luck! cant wait to see this thing at the track this year!
Old 01-23-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Fourman
what is e85 availability like up in muncie? i always fill up before i leave fishers for the track.

might want to grab an UDP and as mentioned already an EWP to free up a few more horses.

talk to joe6.0 on IGH... he did a damn good job when he tuned my car and may have some thoughts on some of your mods.

good luck! cant wait to see this thing at the track this year!
There is a E85 station 5 minutes from my house and i am 5 minutes away from MDW. I can't wait to see your beast in action.
Old 01-23-2011, 10:34 AM
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updated top post
Old 01-24-2011, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by djjonesivs
why?

speed denisty might be alot more beneficial in a vehicle that is using a camshaft with alot of overlap, lift, and duration.

the maf also lags alot for transiet throttle changes.
with a 102 throttle body and a setup like the op he might like the "feel" of a speed density tune alot more then a maf and sd hybrid tune.
I would go SD if it was a track only car. It makes for a cleaner install ,less parts to go bad etc. If the conditions change you can go into the PCM and make changes on the spot. You wouldn't have to worry about the many different driving conditions a street car sees. My car handles a big cam well with the MAF. In Texas the weather can change 20-30 degrees in 2 hours. I don't have that big of T. body so I can't comment on it. My tuner recommends MAF for street cars and he does a great job with the driveability of them. I have friends that run SD on their race car and it works well for them. They do go in and correct the tune at the track for changing conditions.
Good info lets hear some more.
Old 01-24-2011, 01:07 PM
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Thats a little overkill on the injectors. 57lbs?


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