Best Heads for ls3 427 for around 2500.
#41
ok awesome, and im going with an a4.
AUTOMATIC. lol
im going with an NA first.
so 500+ is easy to obtain with a mild cam with my setup?
if thats the case than awesome.
The FI will come later.
I just priced it out yesterday, a STS rear mounted turbo kit with all the goodies and a 70mm housing will only cost $6075 bucks.
but untill then, its NA. ANd i want to acheive over 500 at the wheels untill i go FI. and when i do, all i wanna do is change the cam and GO.
AUTOMATIC. lol
im going with an NA first.
so 500+ is easy to obtain with a mild cam with my setup?
if thats the case than awesome.
The FI will come later.
I just priced it out yesterday, a STS rear mounted turbo kit with all the goodies and a 70mm housing will only cost $6075 bucks.
but untill then, its NA. ANd i want to acheive over 500 at the wheels untill i go FI. and when i do, all i wanna do is change the cam and GO.
#43
Automatics eat more power, so around 500 is pretty doable without going too wild on the cam. A4s with horsepower in the high 400s can be 11 second cars. Set up correctly, they are normally 10 second cars.
#45
Me personally, I think the TFS 235's would better suit your needs. Especially since you are thinking about boost in the future. The thicker deck of the TFS heads will allow for better sealing when boost is added to the engine. Let alone the Cathedral port heads are KNOWN for making power throughout the whole powerband and with this being a street car, I think you would really appreciate the mid range power a little more. Especially with a Rearmount turbo setup that produces some turbo lag. Just my Honest Oppinion, but take it for what it's worth.
Also, if you plan to use an STS kit, I would look at lowering the compression somewhere in the 10.xx range. You'll sacrifice some power now, but would EASILY pick it back up when you add Boost later on. Hell high 400 rwhp would still be achievable with that size motor. NA!
Another thing to look into is going with an LS3 416/418 instead of the 427 since your going to be using a form of F.I. (STS) Anyways, I saw noone else made these points, So I thought I would.
Good Luck, and hope you figure out which route best fits your needs. In the end, it's what makes you happy that matters.
-James
Also, if you plan to use an STS kit, I would look at lowering the compression somewhere in the 10.xx range. You'll sacrifice some power now, but would EASILY pick it back up when you add Boost later on. Hell high 400 rwhp would still be achievable with that size motor. NA!
Another thing to look into is going with an LS3 416/418 instead of the 427 since your going to be using a form of F.I. (STS) Anyways, I saw noone else made these points, So I thought I would.
Good Luck, and hope you figure out which route best fits your needs. In the end, it's what makes you happy that matters.
-James
#46
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From: Battlecreek, MI / Mansfield, OH
Very good points LT1Formula007, although i'm not so sure on your cathedral head theory, but lets not start that argument. It is true if you are going to run boost later it isn't recommend to use a 4.100 crank in the LS3 block with boost. A 416 or 418 would be the better option if you are planing on boost, like LT1Formula007 pointed out above.
#47
Personally, I see the plan of building for F/I in the "future" as an issue all together. Too many plans (not saying yours) never come to reality. I'm all for the ambitous plan for the future builds, but is it realistic? Its not like adding headers or an intake, you're talking about a complete re-direct in power philosophies.
IMO, build the cubes and roll with it....or save and do it right! Once!
Either way, best of luck!
IMO, build the cubes and roll with it....or save and do it right! Once!
Either way, best of luck!
#51
I'm right there with old crappy ported LS1 heads from back in 2002....they only flow 304cfm@ .650 and I'm at 500 RWHP with 427 cubes.
So ported LS3's can easily support WAY more...........
.
#52
update. Compression is 11.1
im going N/a and iF im not happy with the power. then im going STS next year.
IM KEEPING the 427 because im building a zl1 replica car and i want to say it has a 427. lol (stupid) but lifes in the details and i intend on doing ALMOST every one to this car.
even the fender molds.
were going with a 4l60e built by rossler transmissions.
He builds the fastest AUTOMATIC transmissions in the entire world. NO ONE is faster.
i mean he build a 5 second auto.
thats incredible. I spoke with a friend of mine and he told me "manuals impress highschool chicks and automatics win races" haha. not what my views are but if i can achieve better straight line performance from an auto, thats what im gonna roll with. all the way. (gears are 411s)
i have one of the best tuners in america at my disposal in my opinion so i think getting 620 or so crank hp is completely within range.
(he's ""lingenfeltor"" good)
im going N/a and iF im not happy with the power. then im going STS next year.
IM KEEPING the 427 because im building a zl1 replica car and i want to say it has a 427. lol (stupid) but lifes in the details and i intend on doing ALMOST every one to this car.
even the fender molds.
were going with a 4l60e built by rossler transmissions.
He builds the fastest AUTOMATIC transmissions in the entire world. NO ONE is faster.
i mean he build a 5 second auto.
thats incredible. I spoke with a friend of mine and he told me "manuals impress highschool chicks and automatics win races" haha. not what my views are but if i can achieve better straight line performance from an auto, thats what im gonna roll with. all the way. (gears are 411s)
i have one of the best tuners in america at my disposal in my opinion so i think getting 620 or so crank hp is completely within range.
(he's ""lingenfeltor"" good)
#53
I would avoid a new head or any head that has no real world data or proven on many cars from people. I would go with something that has already been proven by many people like TRICK FLOW or AFR heads. I have ran both heads and each time i was removing some one's head for them. I gained with both afr/trick flow heads.
#55
I would avoid a new head or any head that has no real world data or proven on many cars from people. I would go with something that has already been proven by many people like TRICK FLOW or AFR heads. I have ran both heads and each time i was removing some one's head for them. I gained with both afr/trick flow heads.
.
#56
Very good points LT1Formula007, although i'm not so sure on your cathedral head theory, but lets not start that argument. It is true if you are going to run boost later it isn't recommend to use a 4.100 crank in the LS3 block with boost. A 416 or 418 would be the better option if you are planing on boost, like LT1Formula007 pointed out above.
As far as the cathedral heads making more power in the mid range area, I say that b/c when chosen with a cam matched to the setup, they seem to make greater power sooner. However up top the LS3 and LS7 headed setups will outshine the Cathedral port heads all day long. Probably, b/c they have larger valves and the ability to properly fill and evacuate the cylinders completely. But I just think the cathedral port heads shine more down low, where you should really wanna make power on the street. But to each their own. If I am wrong, PLEASE feel free to PM me and help me better understand this?? I take no hostility in discussing things. It's how we as people learn.
-James
#59
Indeed, im lovin it.
For sure.
would it be better to run my current bore with ls3 heads and a fast intake?
Or to run i with a smaller stroke and a bigger bore to achieve 427 cubs?
if i did the second option i could use ls7 heads and a FAST ls7 style intake.
what would be the better setup to have and STILL be able to option of boost and be reliable.
For sure.
would it be better to run my current bore with ls3 heads and a fast intake?
Or to run i with a smaller stroke and a bigger bore to achieve 427 cubs?
if i did the second option i could use ls7 heads and a FAST ls7 style intake.
what would be the better setup to have and STILL be able to option of boost and be reliable.