ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

I really don't think it's the flexplate guys but i don't know whats left. I think that was a great idea about pulling all the plugs though and trying it. I will probably try that first....

Avanti

While the plugs are out, disconnect the fuel and try cranking it over while you are at it.

But, like I said... be SURE it won't spray fuel out in the process, first. Ask how I know... try a fire at Record Inspection at the Salt Flats one time.

As reiterated here, something is definitely wrong and it makes no sense to continue until you find it. Trust me, it's better to tear down an otherwise intact engine now than assume/hope... and replace it later, and maybe not too much later.

All the best and looking forward to reading what you find..

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

So far i have just walked away from this thing for awhile. I feel like i had my 3 strikes already and i am not willing to try that next one just yet

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

It,s hydro locking. The cyl. is filling up with water after its been sitting for awhile. The cyl. is then cleaning out after you get it started.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

You know i was totally thinking that at first but after checking coolant level and what my oil looks like i really don't think this is the case. Worth checking into deeper though!?? Anythings possible at this point

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

That's a good possibility, should be easy to check, install a known good starter and remove all of the spark plugs and disable the ignition and fuel supply and crank it and see if a cylinder is spitting out fuel or water? I would probably still verify all of the flex plate bolts and mounting surface is in good shape with no cracks around the flex plate.

veee8

iTrader: (40)

A leaking fuel injector can cause the same thing.
OR
Is the car stored in a garage? I have seen rain water leaking in down past the intake too, causing hydrolock.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

I'm going to pull the plugs today and see what's going on. First i will pressurize the coolant system to see if anythings amiss...

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Buy yourself a borescope. They are worth their weight in gold. Still sounds like an ignition timing thing to me...usually a hydrolocked engine will go ahead and start as it pitches a rod. Does this engine even try to fire, or does the starter break before it gets to that point?

chasgiv3

iTrader: (1)

After reading through this whole thread I thought to myself water has to be getting into a cylinder somehow. Condensation, rain (if stored outside) or cooling. My buddy's vette broke the block where the starter is connected due to water getting into the intake and filling a cylinder.

Sounds like you need to perform a battery of tests. Cooling system is a good start. Sounds like a nightmare. Good luck.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Car has actually started about 5 or 6 times in a row and ran fine on the first 2 starters. Then on the third one it instantly took off the cone as i tried to start it.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

All the plugs are pulled and fuel and spark have been disconnected. 4th starter was put in and the engine cranked over consistantly and for quite a while a handfull of times. All the plugs looked the same and no sign of coolant, or taste for that matter, on any of the plugs. All dry around each hole. I am totally scratching my head on this one. Starting to think something with timing or spark now too

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Oh ya, i also put my pressure tester on the radiator at about 15 psi and it's held rock solid there for over an hour....

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

That sounds right if your not hydroing the cyl. Maybe misfiring a cyl. How about a bad exhaust valve spring, lifter , or rocker not letting the mixture exit.
You stated that it turns over easy by hand and with the plugs pulled. So no they should be ok.

When the car starts does it fire up instantly like a stock engine does? Mine still does. If so cam and crank sensor are ok. How about timing? Race cars retard the timing to start. Too much advance in your programing ?

I've had good luck with Powermaster starters. They have a nice billet mounting block , and are clockable etc.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Ok, just went in and checked my timing tables in my tune. Way down low at 400 RPMs the timing is still around 24 degrees. Maybe if i lower this area down to 4-8 degrees it will help me?

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Ok, only thing found so far was a loose ground cable to chassis. Could this do it!!???

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Well all i did was tighten my ground to chassis nut and backed the timing off on startup and the thing works like a champ now. I probably started and restarted it 50 times not to mention let it idle up to temp and tried it again!? All i can figure is the loose ground and the battery being in the back, not to mention high compession was just compounding everything. I'm crossing my fingers i got it after starter number 4

midevil1

iTrader: (17)

Sounds like you fixed it.. Loose ground would interrupt the stater revolution and then cause it to try again momentarily and with that much compression something is gonna break.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Do we all really feel that the loose ground was causing the issue? I still am very skeptical....

midevil1

iTrader: (17)

I have had the loose ground be an issue with my 67. It would turn over then quit for a split second and engage again. Being low compression engine, it just shined up the flywheel teeth. I felt pretty stupid afterward's. I musta shimmed that starter a 100 times..