When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
With headers installed and the engine in the car, it seems that I can’t remove the starter because of this tab (maybe I could if I screwed with it for another hour, IDK).
If I cut this tab off the block, I am pretty sure I could get it out. Is there any reason I shouldn’t do that? I would really like to be able to change the starter without unbolting headers.
If it matters, this is an LS3 block in a 2002 Z28.
With headers installed and the engine in the car, it seems that I can’t remove the starter because of this tab (maybe I could if I screwed with it for another hour, IDK).
If I cut this tab off the block, I am pretty sure I could get it out. Is there any reason I shouldn’t do that? I would really like to be able to change the starter without unbolting headers.
If it matters, this is an LS3 block in a 2002 Z28.
Machining register, not going to hurt anything if you cut the half of it off.
Curious as to why you cant get it out? I have the LS3 aluminum block in my 02 ws6 with long tube headers and it easily comes out.
I’m curious as well, one would think all LS style blocks use the same register location. I have an LS2 block with Pacesetter long tubes and do not have any issues. I am however running a genuine GM rebuilt LS3 starter.
While not an absolute rule, cutting on your block generally means your doing something wrong.
Saying an individual is doing something wrong isn’t really a fair thing to say. In the performance world things get cut, ground, modified, and welded all of the time. Another example of cutting registers applies when installing a turbo 400 into the 4th gen platform.
Cutting them off does not jeopardize any structural integrity. It’s just a nature of the beast and what this forum was created for and based upon quite some time ago.
Okay, so — engine in the car. How would you cut it off? I don’t have any ideas I actually like. It’s crowded up there. Right now the only way to get the starter out would be to remove the header on that side, which I’d prefer not to do for gasket reasons.
Cutoff wheel on the disk grinder: not enough room.
Sawzall: too wild and risky.
Hacksaw: would take sooo loooong.
Hacksaw seems to be the best option, unless any of you have a better idea? I’d like a clean cut if at all possible.
Okay, so — engine in the car. How would you cut it off? I don’t have any ideas I actually like. It’s crowded up there. Right now the only way to get the starter out would be to remove the header on that side, which I’d prefer not to do for gasket reasons.
Cutoff wheel on the disk grinder: not enough room.
Sawzall: too wild and risky.
Hacksaw: would take sooo loooong.
Hacksaw seems to be the best option, unless any of you have a better idea? I’d like a clean cut if at all possible.
I’d plow through it with a straight non ferrous 1/4” carbide burr and die grinder. Basically using it like a mill.
I’d plow through it with a straight non ferrous 1/4” carbide burr and die grinder. Basically using it like a mill.
Hmmm, maybe. I'd have to get said burr. In general, my experience with die grinders is that they're really hard to control -- the bit bites into the material and then kicks back -- but maybe I've just been using the wrong type of bit? A specific recommendation (i.e. link to Amazon or whatever) would be appreciated if you have one.
I now realize that my oscillating saw (aka "multitool") came with a bit labeled "metal". I wonder if that would do it.
Hmmm, maybe. I'd have to get said burr. In general, my experience with die grinders is that they're really hard to control -- the bit bites into the material and then kicks back -- but maybe I've just been using the wrong type of bit? A specific recommendation (i.e. link to Amazon or whatever) would be appreciated if you have one.
I now realize that my oscillating saw (aka "multitool") came with a bit labeled "metal". I wonder if that would do it.
Kickback can occur from improper speed, pressure or angle, using the wrong bit for task, and improper grip of the tool. They will also take off on you if running the same direction as tool rotation and not holding tight. Burrs also like a little oil and that helps prevent chatter. This is what you are looking for and now that I’m thinking about it an air powered hobby saw would work well too.
I couldn’t wait. I’m supposed to be working, but I work from home, and the garage is all of fifteen feet from my desk. Had to know if this would work!
My existing metal blade on the oscillating saw worked fine. Took under sixty seconds to complete the cut. Easy to control, minimal mess. I think the second cut will finish off the blade (the teeth are gumming up with aluminum), but it’ll get the job done before that happens!
I'd do a multi tool or hacksaw before I used a burr. A burr would make a mess, scattering alum all over the place. No thanks.
Sometimes you have to do what you have to do, regardless of the mess. Hacksaw would take forever and aren’t those multi tools kind of bulky for that tight of a spot? I’ve never used one so I don’t know but my guess is it’s not going to fit.
I couldn’t wait. I’m supposed to be working, but I work from home, and the garage is all of fifteen feet from my desk. Had to know if this would work!
My existing metal blade on the oscillating saw worked fine. Took under sixty seconds to complete the cut. Easy to control, minimal mess. I think the second cut will finish off the blade (the teeth are gumming up with aluminum), but it’ll get the job done before that happens!
Glad to see progress, lube the blade with soapy water or ATF.
Maybe, but the chunk of aluminum hit his head which caused a brain seizure, changing his whole mindset of preferences. All things automotive have been sold off/given away.
He is now fully into macrame and all forms of knitting, with a little needlepoint on the side....
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Can I cut off this tab near the starter? 
