Wanting to go the 6.2 truck engine route for my swap, and every L92/L94 pic I see of a pullout shows them not having a clutch fan. I'm dead set on not having electric fans. Could one just spin on a clutch fan from a 5.3/6.0 onto a 6.2? Or is it more involved?

 

Sure, if you're dead set on wasting about 12 - 15 HP and a mile per gallon or so, along with having inferior cooling for most situations, should be possible.

 

Yes, I'm well aware of the advantages and disadvantages of a mechanical fan. I just need to know if it can be bolted to the existing pulley and pump.

 

So on my first 98 Wrangler LS swap I used a totally stock 4.8 LS. I used a the stock 2002? water pump and used the stock mechanical fan and 4.0 radiator and shroud. I thought I would have to extend the shroud a bit but no it worked fine.
On all my other LS swaps I've run an electric fan controlled by the ECM. Single Spal 16' fan no shroud.. On at 205 and off at 195. I run the biggest alum radiator I can fit.
Pic.

 

no mods require wire brush the threads screw on the clutch theres nothing else to change nothing special about water pump in non fan clutched trucks

 

Thanks for the replies. After looking closer at 6.2 Escalade pullout engines (L92, L9H), you guys are indeed correct. The mechanical fan isn’t there, but the water pumps still have the threaded stud present. Easy peasey.
Just saw a Dick Holdener dyno test and the mechanical fan only cost 6-7 hp on a stock 5.3. Well worth the hp loss for my application.

 

Real world I doubt you see that much loss. The power to run the E-Fans comes off the alternator. I have seen test showing 5-8 hp loss for an alternator charging at 50-60 amps. Drag racers years ago put a microswitch on their throttle to kill the alternator field circuit to save that HP during a quick 1/4 mile run. Real world I actually saw more power loss with 50 amps of load from a 7/9 bladed GM dual fan setup being pulled from my 253 amp AD244 alternator than I saw with my 33% underdriven LBZ Duramax clutch fan frewheeling along on my 383 small block. The LBZ fan blade moves far more CFM. My engine stays cooler with the clutch fan and my ac works better with it. With that much fan the clutch fan almost never has to engage and just mostly freewheels even on a fairly hot Texas summer day.

Given the electric fans were often having to run even at 75-80 mph to keep the powertrain cool on a hot day I saw ZERO MPG difference between the underdriven clutch fan setup and E-Fans either. The only difference I noticed was that the engine would try to overheat reaching 230F coolant temps on a long, hard pull at highway speeds with the E-Fans requiring backing off the throttle, downshifting and slowing down where the clutch fan would reach 210F then engage for 20-30 seconds and cool the engine down from ~210F to 187F nearly instantly. My AC performance also suffered badly with the E-Fans in stop and go traffic.

I also used an anemometer to calculate some CFM numbers. The GM dual fans were not even moving 4,000 cfm across the cooling stack. The Duramax fan was moving 3,800ish cfm at idle and at 2,000 rpm engine speed it was moving over 6,000 cfm. At 3,000 rpm it was moving over 8,000 CFM with the clutch engaged. Told me all I needed to know.

 

Interesting real world data. I like it! You bring up a point that nobody ever addresses. Electric fans aren’t “free” power. The load they draw ultimately still comes from the crankshaft.
i completely respect anyone’s decision to go old school or run dual whizbang Spal 10,0000’s or whatever.
What I don’t get is the immediate hate whenever someone wants to run a mechanical fan. I love the simplicity and the way it looks more period correct in a classic car. I don’t like relays and extra wiring and extra taps into my vehicle’s electric circuit. But once again, I still respect those who go that route.
Just get tired of the people parroting “oMg mEcHaNiCaL fAnS uR gOnNa LoSe 50 hP yA dInOsAuR!!!!!!”

**one more thing…during the Dick Holdener test he just did a back to back with the mechanical
fan spun on and the other with it off. So you may be right. Would be interesting to see a back to back with a mechanical fan and then one with dual e fans engaged pulling on the alternator.

 

I would also like to see that accessory test re-tested with an underdriven crank pulley at some point. My 25% crank underdrive March pulley set for L31 350 Vortec based engine has a larger OD water pump pulley that ends up slowing the pump and fan down 33% compared to stock. With the Duramax fan blade as I mentioned it still moves that much airflow.

People can love their electric fans all they want but in some applications GM still uses a clutch fan to provide adequate cooling. The EV clutch fan is the best of both worlds. The PCM can control the fan clutch for optimal powertrain and ac condenser cooling as well as limit power consumption at WOT or power loss when the fan is not needed. Electric fans will never cool as well as a good clutch fan and proper shroud. Moving airflow requires HP. I ran an EV clutch setup for nearly 3 years controlled by my P59. The EV clutch logic is in the P59 due to the EV clutch being used on the early P59 run 5.3L Trailblazers. My 2019 Titan also has an EV clutch fan. It is virtually silent and never robs much power but cools that 5.6L excellently and the ac stays ice cold.

~10 years ago my uncle and I fit a factory GMT800 clutch fan setup on to his 2012 Tahoe he was hauling his family around in with his travel trailer behind it. He experienced multiple overheats during a summer trip through Colorado and said enough with this non sense. We pulled the electric fans off a retrofitted a clutch fan setup on it. Never had an overheating issue again. He is a mechanical engineer that is usually a firm believer in keeping things stock but also had an 03-04ish crew cab GMC 5.3L at the time with a clutch fan that never even tried to run hot. He knew the problem with the Tahoe as soon as he felt of the airflow through the radiator with the electric fans screaming on high and barely pulling any airflow.