Need help selecting a camshaft and supporting modifications for my 08 LS3 Corvette
#1
Need help selecting a camshaft and supporting modifications for my 08 LS3 Corvette
For those that have knowledge and first hand experience with replacing camshafts, especially on LS3 equipped vehicles, your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Below is a summary of my car and what is currently installed:
2008 LS3 MN6 Z51
Kooks 1 3/4 headers, catted 3 x 3 midpipe, Borla multi-core cat-back, Callaway Honker CAI, and a tune. The car put down 428 RWHP SAE and 417 RWTQ SAE on a dynojet WITH CALIFORNIA'S WONDERFUL 91 OCTANE FUEL.
I want to replace the cam, but need your assistance to come up with the best specifications for my needs. I do NOT track the car or autocross it. I mostly enjoy it during WOT runs in the highway from around 40 MPH on forward. I like to go well into the triple digits, and want to use the entire power band. I never really go from a dig, or dump the clutch.
This is my daily driver, and I am not willing to make ANY sacrifices in drivability. I want a cam that will not affect the reliability of the car or motor. I would like to have a 'sleeper" type of cam that would be friendly to a service department, if I need to take the car in. I do not want any more lope than what I currently have with the stock cam, no bucking, surging, or stalling, and want to be able to idle at around 750 - 800 RPM max (stock is 650 RPM). I do NOT want to sacrifice low-mid range TQ. I am basically looking for a cam that will provide gains throughout the ENTIRE power band. If FAST releases the new 102 manifold soon, I will also use it, when swapping the cam. I want to be able to fully use 6th gear, and be able to drive around at low RPM's (1.200 - 1.300) with no ill effects of the aftermarket camshaft. I would also like to be able to pass the sniffer smog in California. I also do not want to sacrifice my gas mileage.
Based on the above criteria, what type of cam would you all recommend? Am I dreaming with all of these requirements? Does such a "perfect" cam for my needs even exist? I want a cam that will provide enough of a gain to at least justify the cost of performing the swap. I am considering a Lingenfelter GT-11 or similar cam, since it has a stock-like idle behavior. How would a 224 - 232 .581/590 cam on a 115 LSA or 224/236 590/612 115 LSA behave?
I am most likely also going to get a set of CNC ported LS3 heads, and am leaning towards the ones offered by TEA.
PLEASE help, and guide me in the right direction, when selecting a cam. What lobes should I select? I will obviously use dual springs, pushrods, etc... With all of the timing chains failing lately, I will use the Katech C5-R chain, and will not use the ASP pullies, due to possible harmonics issues.
2008 LS3 MN6 Z51
Kooks 1 3/4 headers, catted 3 x 3 midpipe, Borla multi-core cat-back, Callaway Honker CAI, and a tune. The car put down 428 RWHP SAE and 417 RWTQ SAE on a dynojet WITH CALIFORNIA'S WONDERFUL 91 OCTANE FUEL.
I want to replace the cam, but need your assistance to come up with the best specifications for my needs. I do NOT track the car or autocross it. I mostly enjoy it during WOT runs in the highway from around 40 MPH on forward. I like to go well into the triple digits, and want to use the entire power band. I never really go from a dig, or dump the clutch.
This is my daily driver, and I am not willing to make ANY sacrifices in drivability. I want a cam that will not affect the reliability of the car or motor. I would like to have a 'sleeper" type of cam that would be friendly to a service department, if I need to take the car in. I do not want any more lope than what I currently have with the stock cam, no bucking, surging, or stalling, and want to be able to idle at around 750 - 800 RPM max (stock is 650 RPM). I do NOT want to sacrifice low-mid range TQ. I am basically looking for a cam that will provide gains throughout the ENTIRE power band. If FAST releases the new 102 manifold soon, I will also use it, when swapping the cam. I want to be able to fully use 6th gear, and be able to drive around at low RPM's (1.200 - 1.300) with no ill effects of the aftermarket camshaft. I would also like to be able to pass the sniffer smog in California. I also do not want to sacrifice my gas mileage.
Based on the above criteria, what type of cam would you all recommend? Am I dreaming with all of these requirements? Does such a "perfect" cam for my needs even exist? I want a cam that will provide enough of a gain to at least justify the cost of performing the swap. I am considering a Lingenfelter GT-11 or similar cam, since it has a stock-like idle behavior. How would a 224 - 232 .581/590 cam on a 115 LSA or 224/236 590/612 115 LSA behave?
I am most likely also going to get a set of CNC ported LS3 heads, and am leaning towards the ones offered by TEA.
PLEASE help, and guide me in the right direction, when selecting a cam. What lobes should I select? I will obviously use dual springs, pushrods, etc... With all of the timing chains failing lately, I will use the Katech C5-R chain, and will not use the ASP pullies, due to possible harmonics issues.
#3
I know that there are several proven grinds for the LS1 and LS2, but have not seen much posted for the LS3. I know that a little more exhaust duration is needed. I have ot put a lot of thought into this, becasue I want to do it right the first time around, especially becasue heads and cam is very labor intensive, and I want a bullet proof set-up, and not worry about the motor going south.
#4
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If you want a sleeper cam that works well, drives like stock the go for a LPE GT-11. LPE has used them in the LS2 cars and it has worked great. I have used them in the LS2 cars in my shop and with headers and a ported heads, intake and TB, the LS2 cars come in at 440 to the wheels on my Mustang Dyno. You can expect about 470+ with the LPE package which consists of their ported heads, intake, headers and the cam. LPE claims 525 BHP or crank hp for their package and I have found them to be very close to their claims in the past.
#5
If you want a sleeper cam that works well, drives like stock the go for a LPE GT-11. LPE has used them in the LS2 cars and it has worked great. I have used them in the LS2 cars in my shop and with headers and a ported heads, intake and TB, the LS2 cars come in at 440 to the wheels on my Mustang Dyno. You can expect about 470+ with the LPE package which consists of their ported heads, intake, headers and the cam. LPE claims 525 BHP or crank hp for their package and I have found them to be very close to their claims in the past.
2008 LS3 MN6 Z51
Kooks 1 3/4 headers, catted 3 x 3 midpipe, Borla multi-core cat-back, Callaway Honker CAI, and a tune. The car put down 428 RWHP SAE and 417 RWTQ SAE on a dynojet WITH CALIFORNIA'S WONDERFUL 91 OCTANE FUEL.
#7
I would like for the cam to pass the sniffer test. I know that the long tubes will not pass the visual, but will pass the sniffer with cats. It would be too much work to remove a cam to pass the sniffer test. The car is new, and I believe that it does not requre a smog check for seven years. I do not keep my cars too long though. Usually 1 - 2 years and then I sell them, but we will see how the market is at that time.
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#17
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With your car having nice long tube headers you won't need much benefit from much more than a 6 degree split in duration. You'll want an LSA of around 114-116. For an off the shelf type grind the Comp Cams XER273HR might be in the range of what you're looking for. It should drive very well if tuned right. It will peak hp at around 5900-6000 and carry well into 6400 or so before falling. The lift is under .600 so valve spring life should be within reason.
#18
With your car having nice long tube headers you won't need much benefit from much more than a 6 degree split in duration. You'll want an LSA of around 114-116. For an off the shelf type grind the Comp Cams XER273HR might be in the range of what you're looking for. It should drive very well if tuned right. It will peak hp at around 5900-6000 and carry well into 6400 or so before falling. The lift is under .600 so valve spring life should be within reason.
#20
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With the fast on there you may pick up a few hundred rpm just from an increase in airflow alone. Keep in mind that as you raise peak hp up, your idle and low rpm torque will suffer. I wouldn't go over a 230 duration with the goals you have for the car. Bigger cams will drive fine, but you want a stock like idle and you aren't going to get that with a bigger cam.