a couple yrs ago there was a builder that posted on here,he was saying you don't need big splits,and to keep the overlap down..if i remember right,he said you could make good streetable power by keeping the overlap around 0 degrees(at .050 lift)..back then i don't think anybody was listening,some thought he was nuts...i PMd him asking his opinion on a mild cam for a 6.0 L92 headed GTO ..he thought that a 216/220 113+3 would work good,but at the time was working on bigger cube deals so he couldn't say for sure based on actual experience..
2+ yrs later, looks like he knew what he was talking about..

 

I just noticed the baby hotcam holds it's own in the average torque stakes with the bigger cams in the gmtech article. I was only looking at Hp levels before but how is it that a cam with onlt .525 lift can perform so well against much bigger cams. It flogs most of em till 5 grand and this is why I am using a similar specced cam in my 416 that is being built for the street.

Comp LS1 Custom 218/228 .563/.571 112º + 0

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_11.html


cheers

 

Those are all on a small engine, your 416 may be starving. It will be interesting to see. I can see it running out of steam at about 58-6000 rpms. Low/mid range will be great.

 

5800 is what I thought 6k would be a bonus and thats exactly what I am after. Low and mid range power is what I want for a M6 daily.

Valve events are still the same as if it were a 4.0l V8 or a 7 litre motor so providing the heads work well and they do, cylinder fill should still be the same. It seems to me that lsa, Icl and overlap characteristics are more important than lift. The stock ls7 cam is a 210 intake duration and works pretty good so an extra 8* should fill the pots pretty well IMHO.

cheers

 

In my l92 headed car it ran very well with a 220/220 xer 114+2 cam in it stepping up to ported heads and a 224 228 xer 114 +2 made an extra 25 HP approx up top but lost some midrange over the 220 cam. I had a 212 218 xfi 115 cam in it before that and it would shred the tyres at the hit easily and had the most low down of the whole lot I tried.

If you click the youtube link in sig there is a pass running 118.7 mph @ 11.8 on stock stall .... not bad for an almost 4000lb car. I have yet to see a VE/G8 6.0L A6 run an 11 with a stock stall N/A on pump fuel. I know there is plenty with bigger cams running 12's.

cheers

 

I made 460+hp on my g8 Gt with full bolts on ported heads/intake manifold/TB on a 224/236 112lsa XFI cam..it depends on what you like I went with this cam because I'm going to be running a 3600 stall converter also..shooting for 11.50s on motor and to beat ss enforcer record on stock 2.92 and stock suspension

 

If you want to run those times in a G8, I would be using one of the aussie Over the radiator intakes and mafless tuning with your combo. The smaller splits work best.

 

The trick is getting the box to shift properly once you start spining it over 6800 rpm. I thought mine had a 11.5 in it but were allways hampered by dodgy 1-2 shifts at 7200. Comparing the HP on our dynos here is useless but I did manage to run 119 mph at 4000 kgs which shows it made good power.

Good luck with cracking 11.5 that would be quite an achievement on motor in a G8.

cheers

 

G8s are heavier than VEs, aren't they? 100-175lbs or so?

Curb weight on a G8GT is 3995lbs.

 

I don't think so George there exactly the same car my race weight was 3950 driver included 185 lbs with 20 litres of fuel in it. All parephanilia removed from cab and the boot fully stripped out and with Omega rims and fronts saved probably 150 lbs + all up. A lot of them hit the track here well over 4000 lbs


cheers

 

I would like to start by saying I am no expert. I am just contributing my opinion based on some research and testing that I myself have done, as well as info taken from magazines tests and well known shops. I am not going to argue back and forth anyone who thinks differently than me. I just thought I might help someone decide what they might need. Call the cam companies and reputable shops for cam recommendations. They know more and spend thousands more on testing than most people. What you will find are some common things they all agree on.
I think I am going to blow away everyone on the entire internet, in every automotive forum, and in every "what’s the best cam for this engine" topic. Are you ready? Here we go.
When selecting a cam you must NOT think how this camshaft and engine is going to propel this vehicle.
You have to think HOW IS THIS VEHICLE/COMBO GOING TO LOAD THIS ENGINE. And then decide factors like lobe sep. And rpm range your shooting for.
Cylinder head design and flow will dictate valve overlap requirement. That gmhightechperformance article is more proof that one thing we do know is that these L92/L76 heads with large intake valves and big difference in int to exh flow really like low to no valve overlap. But if you look at LS1/6 cathedral heads with smaller valves, intake ports, and not so different int to exh flow numbers, they like a little more overlap.
Engine dynos numbers are not a good indication of what you need for your particular combo. Dynos load the engine the exact same way every run. It may show more torque output, but that doesn’t mean you will go faster in the 1/4 mile. Many factors will change how the engine is loaded (or how easy of a job it has to do). Dynos are good for looking at where peak torque will occur and where the placement of torque will be.
Everybody see's this cam-x in a 2800 lsx drag car run 9's and they think they should use it in a 4000 LB GTO with a similar engine. It will work good but not great.
After extensive research and watching other people spend money trying different cams you start to see a trend.
My opinion (not fact) is heavy vehicle, stock gearing, stock or mild converter and you will need the 224/230'ish with a wide 114 to 116 or higher lsa cam.
Lighter vehicle, high stall, aftermarket gearing and heavy mods and you will need 110- 113 lsa. Look at like this. The more work your engine needs to do to, the more lsa you should run.
Years ago, in an article in some magazine, John Lingenfelter said “make as much torque at your shift recovery rpm and your car will go faster” I have tried this and it works. Some of these tight lsa cams loose too much torque in lower ranges and only squeak out a touch more power up top. Not worth it to me. This article (I will try to find it and post the actual numbers) showed a typical pass down the ¼ mile in a 12 second car and plotted rpm against time and showed how little time the engine spent at top rpm. The difference in amount of time spent in the lower rpm ranges compared to high rpms was a real eye opener. I really feel that the single most important thing about cams in these L92 heads is keep valve overlap low and use engine load to determine the lsa.

 

The only thing you missed is wide lsa cams peak higher and tighter lsa cams peak lower this includes peak tq. A tighter lsa cam isnt such a bad thing it just depends on the duration of the cam and other supporting mods and diff gears ie engine masters run tight lsa's as they peak low but have massive tq at 3000rpm. What you say in most cases is correct apart from the load and LSA

 

We've been doing ALOT of testing in the G8's and 2010 Camaros over the last year or so. We've come up with a couple of grinds that seem to work extremely well.

My favorite is a fairly small grind 224/236 117+2. With just over .600" lift, this cam drives and idles like stock but picked up nearly 100 RWHP in a L99 Camaro. 313 stock vs. 410 w/cam and headers. This was through the stock airbox as well. We did the same cam in an LS3 Camaro and did 438. I designed the cam for F/I but was pleasantly suprised with it's NA peformance. The car did 570 with the Procharger but was limited to 5500RPM for lack of fuel... (twin pumps on the way)

The larger of the two is a 231/247 113. This cam has a nice lope and drives well. It did 469 cam only and IMHO make a great daily driver for someone looking for a cam with a nice aggressive idle. One of my customers just finished an LS3 H/C project with this cam and a set of Thunder/GTP LS3 heads. That car did 515 to the wheels. There is a dyno graph of the cam only car in the dyno section and I will be posting cam only graphs of the 224/236 117 shortly.

I thought I'd just share our experiences here.

Thanks,
Shane

 

That is pretty interesting. I spent a bunch of time doing research and trying many, many different cam specs in Engine Analyzer Plus. I finally settled on a cam with the same specs (XFI lobes). I just received the cam last week from Comp. I had not heard of anyone using those exact specs. It is good to hear that it actually works well. It seemed to in theory....

 

I have a 232/238 .600" 113LSA for about 2 years now in my current set up, idles great, no surging (finally figured to tune out), good fuel econmy, sounds wicked at stop lights, and weighs 4485lbs with 1.57 60'. Wish i had more for top end, but extremely happy with. I have tried 210's and 220's cams and like this one the most.

 

this thread is awesome....


NOW . lets talk about low lift cams.... i have a 230-242 .600 on a 110...truck made 458 and 435 with limited fuel syatem.... well im lookin for something else...

i was thinking about a 218-230 .550 lift on a 115 lsa..

let the opinions fly.

im at this point im not lookin to make high hp .no harsh ramp rates. just a nice tourque curve with great street manners,

 

I'll jump in here as well...great thread.

I have a 227/235 .614”/.621” 113LSA +4 advance spec'd out for my PRC LS3 heads w/ 66 cc chambers, 0.40" gaskets and an lq4 bottom end (will need to fly cut) its on LSL lobes.

we'll see what it does...what do you guys think?

Chad

 

I have that same cam on a 114+3 and did not have to fly cut

 

on .40" gaskets? pat g told me I'd have to fly cut, remember my heads are also milled .030" for the 66 chambers.

what were the PTV clearances?

Chad

 

Don't have my notes in front of me, but if memory serves correct, Around .070 on the intake and the exhaust was a non issue. I have over a year of driving on the car with no problems. It's a DD car.