Oil Consumption LS2 427
07-19-2009, 09:32 PM
#103
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Drive it around easy and see if you still use oil. Bet you do. Like I said before there is no way you are sucking 10 quarts of oil through the fresh air tube if you drove it 3000 miles. Come on guys he is burning 1 quart in 285 miles. If it was a quart in 2000 miles then I would say yes but he isn't. He isn't wide open throttle the whole time either. When I rebuilt my motor I used Diamond Pistons and Total Seal rings with the napier 2nd ring to control oil consumption. I did my research and found out that Diamond and Weisco are about the 2 best options for stroker motors. Quit wasting your time following PCV hose routing setups, that isn't your problem. Believe me I was in your boat and did all of that crap and it didn't help....
07-19-2009, 09:36 PM
#104
Drive it around easy and see if you still use oil. Bet you do. Like I said before there is no way you are sucking 10 quarts of oil through the fresh air tube if you drove it 3000 miles. Come on guys he is burning 1 quart in 285 miles. If it was a quart in 2000 miles then I would say yes but he isn't. He isn't wide open throttle the whole time either. When I rebuilt my motor I used Diamond Pistons and Total Seal rings with the napier 2nd ring to control oil consumption. I did my research and found out that Diamond and Weisco are about the 2 best options for stroker motors. Quit wasting your time following PCV hose routing setups, that isn't your problem. Believe me I was in your boat and did all of that crap and it didn't help....
07-19-2009, 11:50 PM
#105
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I am scared silly it could be the motor. If it is the shortblock, does a person call up the company they bought the shortblock from and ask for a new one? :-)
07-20-2009, 07:51 AM
#108
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I just pulled the throttle body off. The intake is sopping wet with oil.
Although it is hard to tell in the picture above, I have also verified the following:
- The "blue" line (on the top of the RevXtreme catch can) connects to the metal port on the valley cover.
- The "purple" line (on the side of the RevXtreme catch can) connects to plastic port on the manifold intake.
Tracy, following what you stated above, I should:
- Remove the "red" line/hose.
- Cap the port (on the valve cover) that the "red" line was connected to.
- Cap the port (just before the throttle body) that the "red" line was connected to.
- Replace the stock oil cap, with an oil cap breather.
Do I have the above correct?
Jackson
Although it is hard to tell in the picture above, I have also verified the following:
- The "blue" line (on the top of the RevXtreme catch can) connects to the metal port on the valley cover.
- The "purple" line (on the side of the RevXtreme catch can) connects to plastic port on the manifold intake.
Tracy, following what you stated above, I should:
- Remove the "red" line/hose.
- Cap the port (on the valve cover) that the "red" line was connected to.
- Cap the port (just before the throttle body) that the "red" line was connected to.
- Replace the stock oil cap, with an oil cap breather.
Do I have the above correct?
Jackson
07-20-2009, 07:56 AM
#109
I am suspecting it is a ring sealing issue as well, but he needs to try 405hp_Z06's reccomendation as a last resort. Just to much oil to be all coming from somewhere else IMHO.
07-20-2009, 09:29 AM
#110
Oil can't get through this can....impossible w/out it filling up first due to the design.....but many others do.
I am suspecting it is a ring sealing issue as well, but he needs to try 405hp_Z06's reccomendation as a last resort. Just to much oil to be all coming from somewhere else IMHO.
I am suspecting it is a ring sealing issue as well, but he needs to try 405hp_Z06's reccomendation as a last resort. Just to much oil to be all coming from somewhere else IMHO.
Rings not seated properly?
Do you have small oil spots all over the rear of the car?
07-20-2009, 09:48 AM
#111
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The area in front of the throttle body was wet with oil. Not as much oil as was in the intake, but I cleaned that pre-throttle body area last time and it was stained again.
07-20-2009, 11:58 AM
#114
Most common thing we see in tear downs with similar is the rings were not file-fit with the proper end-gap or the wrong rings used for the piston. Other times the motor may have been broken in with syn right away and the rings never seated properly. We have one in now from a volume engine builder and the top ring has one end ground at an angle (should be both ends perfectly square) and it is using oil in that one cylinder only.
07-20-2009, 12:53 PM
#115
Almost forgot, at least one of the rocker pedestal bolt holes from each cyl will be open to the intake runner in the cyl head and these MUST be sealed with thread sealant or oil will be pulled around the threads and down into the combustion chamber....even if torqued to spec. This is often overlooked.
I will post pictures of the engine I am tearing down now with a similar issue, and it has only 1500 or so miles on it since the customer bought it.
I will post pictures of the engine I am tearing down now with a similar issue, and it has only 1500 or so miles on it since the customer bought it.
Last edited by TLewis4095; 07-20-2009 at 03:07 PM.
07-20-2009, 02:07 PM
#116
Here are pictures of what I found today on this new motor:
The combustion chamber on #2 cyl shows an awful lot of build-up for only 1500 miles....Also, the lack of carbon in the burn area shows leaking coolant.
Piston top is "steamed clean" compared to #4....but notice each show some coolant leakage into the cyl (where the piston top is clean).
Effects of the reversion pulse that carried the coolant steam up into the intake port & further into the intake manifold. The coolant was only leaking into the cylinder, but the reversion pulse carries some back into the intake (and can with oil as well).
And the intake port for #4 right next to it shows oil build-up and very little steam reversion.
Only #2 was leaking real bad, but all 8 show signs of some seepage.
I also found that the piston to cyl bore clearance is excessive a .0055 when .0035 is the max I like to see so it allowed the rings to flutter and #2 top ring was stuck in the groove and allowed the oil consumption.
Other than these issues, it was a forged build with top quality parts and the rod & main journals & bearings show very little wear so I would attribute this to a "production" builder that puts out qty to be price competitive since the time it takes to check & double check tolerances, and then to order an oversize piston/ring set when the machining was done more than expected does not allow a builder to compete price wise with the other volume builders.
This is NOT real common, but is seen far more than it should be and NO, I will not post the name of the builder as I see some great builds come from them.....and rarely see this.
This is seen more with the low-priced bargin advertised engines & short blocks from the big-name volume builders or the shops that have regular techs attempt to do the engine building.
This post is only to show an example of what can cause some of the issues this thread is dealing with. This engine shows clearly the reversion pulses you here me talk about and leave some thinking...what???
The combustion chamber on #2 cyl shows an awful lot of build-up for only 1500 miles....Also, the lack of carbon in the burn area shows leaking coolant.
Piston top is "steamed clean" compared to #4....but notice each show some coolant leakage into the cyl (where the piston top is clean).
Effects of the reversion pulse that carried the coolant steam up into the intake port & further into the intake manifold. The coolant was only leaking into the cylinder, but the reversion pulse carries some back into the intake (and can with oil as well).
And the intake port for #4 right next to it shows oil build-up and very little steam reversion.
Only #2 was leaking real bad, but all 8 show signs of some seepage.
I also found that the piston to cyl bore clearance is excessive a .0055 when .0035 is the max I like to see so it allowed the rings to flutter and #2 top ring was stuck in the groove and allowed the oil consumption.
Other than these issues, it was a forged build with top quality parts and the rod & main journals & bearings show very little wear so I would attribute this to a "production" builder that puts out qty to be price competitive since the time it takes to check & double check tolerances, and then to order an oversize piston/ring set when the machining was done more than expected does not allow a builder to compete price wise with the other volume builders.
This is NOT real common, but is seen far more than it should be and NO, I will not post the name of the builder as I see some great builds come from them.....and rarely see this.
This is seen more with the low-priced bargin advertised engines & short blocks from the big-name volume builders or the shops that have regular techs attempt to do the engine building.
This post is only to show an example of what can cause some of the issues this thread is dealing with. This engine shows clearly the reversion pulses you here me talk about and leave some thinking...what???
07-20-2009, 07:07 PM
#117
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I had this same problem on a 454 LSX motor, it had 3k miles when i pulled it. It seemed to be that the piston skirts rubbed the cross hatches completely away in every cylinder from side-loading. I eliminated the PCV system, re-sealed the rocker bolts, and eventually had to pull the motor.
07-20-2009, 08:03 PM
#118
I had this same problem on a 454 LSX motor, it had 3k miles when i pulled it. It seemed to be that the piston skirts rubbed the cross hatches completely away in every cylinder from side-loading. I eliminated the PCV system, re-sealed the rocker bolts, and eventually had to pull the motor.
