my LME built LSX 427
06-25-2009, 01:57 PM
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my LME built LSX 427 Here is my LSX 427 built by LME. I would like to thank Bryan@LME as he did a great job in answering all my questions with lengthy explanations and working with me on the payment. I’ve talked to all the famous engine builders here on LS1tech and decided LME was who I wanted to build my motor. It came down to their reputation as being the best LS engine builder (in my opinion) and answering all my questions thoroughly. I didn’t get responses from some of the vendors on here so they lost out on my business. Anyways, here are some specs and pictures of the motor, enjoy.
LME built GM LSX bowtie race block w/ billet main caps, 6 head bolts
9.5:1 Wiseco custom F.I. pistons 4.125”
Tool steel heavy wall wrist pins
NPR stainless steel rings
Callies Compstar H/I rods w/ ARP 2000
Callies Compstar 4” crank
Clevite H bearings
Durabond cam bearings
ARP main studs
LME built GM LSX bowtie race block w/ billet main caps, 6 head bolts
9.5:1 Wiseco custom F.I. pistons 4.125”
Tool steel heavy wall wrist pins
NPR stainless steel rings
Callies Compstar H/I rods w/ ARP 2000
Callies Compstar 4” crank
Clevite H bearings
Durabond cam bearings
ARP main studs
06-25-2009, 03:11 PM
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06-25-2009, 04:48 PM
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Thanks man, yeah I would do that or a turbo.. or even the F2.. but this is just gonna be a nice street/strip car that is full weight with leather, stereo, A/C, PS, etc. All the larger superchargers and turbos capable of 1000+ rwhp require the A/C to be removed. I am trying to figure out if the Burkhardt front tubular bumper support deal that relocates the radiator can retain the A/C condenser. If it can, then I might cog an F2 and drop the direct port. Otherwise, it’s the F1R + direct port with the SDCE belt tensioning set-up.
06-25-2009, 04:52 PM
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Thanks man, yeah I would do that or a turbo.. or even the F2.. but this is just gonna be a nice street/strip car that is full weight with leather, stereo, A/C, PS, etc. All the larger superchargers and turbos capable of 1000+ rwhp require the A/C to be removed. I am trying to figure out if the Burkhardt front tubular bumper support deal that relocates the radiator can retain the A/C condenser. If it can, then I might cog an F2 and drop the direct port. Otherwise, it’s the F1R + direct port with the SDCE belt tensioning set-up.
(as I am sure you already know) I like the fact you are going blower (instead of turbo). While I am not against turbo, they are just so common anymore, nice to see a MEAN blower build 
Get us some pics when you start getting it together 
06-26-2009, 06:27 AM
#15
You sure are going to test out those Compstar rods. Callies recommends them up to 800 rwhp, I know many people have well exceeded what Callies recommends on the Compstar rods. When I built my LSX 427, I decided to sell my Compstar rods and go with Dyer 300M rods.
06-26-2009, 08:39 AM
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Yeah, but I believe that just about ANY company underestimates thier rating for obvious reasons. They say it is good for 800 HP, and it breaks at 825, people start bitching. I don't believe you can put an actual rating on something anyway, without looking at the RPM it will be operated in, as RPM has ALOT do with rod carnage as well. I can guarantee you put a set of those rods in a 2000 HP motor, and never twist them over 5000RPM, they would live forever (and of course, a 2000 HP motor, is not making 2000 HP at 5000 RPM, but you know what I mean
) Anyways, what was my point? Oh yeah, there is a "cushion" built into the "HP estimate" because in reality, that is all they are anyway, right?
06-26-2009, 09:01 AM
#17
I have never heard of a Compstar Rob breaking. If someone personally has broken their rods PLEASE chime in. I would like to hear there story. I will have around 900rwhp with nitrous on the rods and i am not the least bit concerned.
On the other hand if he has the money to "max out an F1R Procharger + a 200 shot" he really should be looking into new rods for piece of mind.
Thats about 1300hp + 200hp = 1500hp
06-26-2009, 09:53 AM
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The Compstar H beam is a very capable rod in 1000+ HP applications. With the going to the H/I beam there should be no worries of maxing out the power potential of the H/I rod.
06-26-2009, 11:27 AM
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At first, I wanted to upgrade the crank, rods, and pistons from the stardard LSX package to make sure the engine was built stout. After talking to Bryan, he told me it was completely unnecessary for the power goals I had with the car (maxed F1R + 200shot). I still insisted on upgrading the engine so he said if I must, do the custom Wiseco pistons with the tool steel wrist pins and custom ring pack. After that upgrade, I still insisted on upgrading the engine some more, so he said you can upgrade to the Callies Compstar H/I beam rods. I was reminded several times that these upgrades were complete overkill for what I was doing and unnnessary, which I appreciated since LME is not trying to sell you bunch of upgraded parts that you don’t need, I just insisted. Another thing is this is not your standard Callies Compstar H beam rod, it is their H/I beam rod which is quite a bit stronger from top to bottom compared to the stardard H beam rod. The H/I rod beam itself is 25% thicker than their standard H beam rod. Thanks for all the comments guys! I will update as I progress but it will be awhile for the build to be completed.
Bryan, did you get my email about my invoice? Thanks
Bryan, did you get my email about my invoice? Thanks
06-26-2009, 04:05 PM
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At first, I wanted to upgrade the crank, rods, and pistons from the stardard LSX package to make sure the engine was built stout. After talking to Bryan, he told me it was completely unnecessary for the power goals I had with the car (maxed F1R + 200shot). I still insisted on upgrading the engine so he said if I must, do the custom Wiseco pistons with the tool steel wrist pins and custom ring pack. After that upgrade, I still insisted on upgrading the engine some more, so he said you can upgrade to the Callies Compstar H/I beam rods. I was reminded several times that these upgrades were complete overkill for what I was doing and unnnessary, which I appreciated since LME is not trying to sell you bunch of upgraded parts that you don’t need, I just insisted. Another thing is this is not your standard Callies Compstar H beam rod, it is their H/I beam rod which is quite a bit stronger from top to bottom compared to the stardard H beam rod. The H/I rod beam itself is 25% thicker than their standard H beam rod. Thanks for all the comments guys! I will update as I progress but it will be awhile for the build to be completed.
Bryan, did you get my email about my invoice? Thanks
Bryan, did you get my email about my invoice? Thanks
Thanks again for the business. Keep us up todate on the progress.