koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

Maybe you need to look at the price lists because ERL charges 2600$ (plus core) for a block that is completely machined and ready to assemble.

I believe RED is as much or more for a block that is completely machined ready to assemble. You have worked with Steve what is the price for a new set of sleeves installed?

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Less than 2600. We use RED all the time. Give him a call. Your splitting hairs here with costs from what I can see. Sleeving an LS2 would be the least expensive way to go and is what we do 95% of the time unless the customer has the deep pockets for a billet block. And to be honest if the customer has the money this isn't even a conversation and there is no vote or opinions being taken over it. BUT not everyone can afford that RHS block or a Super-Deck. RED, ERL both top notch you wont go wrong either way and the RHS block speaks for itself.

supermouse4

I can understand why you would not want to go with the LSX block due to weight concerns, but it seems that it would be the best bang for the buck. I am not sure on how much power the blocks could handle, but the LSX block can handle upwards of over 2000 hp, if that is what your heart desires. It is your money, and choice to do what you want to do with it. Good luck man.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Just get an LSX iron block and have RED "sleeve" it with the Darton Wet sleeves. Thats the best you're gonna get. 2,500 hp, the little bit of extra weight will help the sand rail, and the iron sleeves are stronger than the iron in the block.

I love spending other peoples money.....

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LSmonster

iTrader: (2)

That is completely false! Weight makes a huge difference in a sand rail. Picking your favorite block is find, but please don't spread false information.

mebuildit

Yes, weight does come into play with what I'm trying to achieve. After reading all of this, and it looks like things are similar price wise with all of the work needing to be done sleeving and machining to make it work.
My question now is, why not just pay the little bit of extra cash and hone it and you are ready to go. Am I missing something? Why spend all of this time and machining time to "make it work" and you are still left with a "stock" block that has been cut up to make work?
I can see doing some of that for a DD but if you are going to be running it hard, why not just get a purpose built block like either the LSX, RHS or Dart. That way all you have to do is hone it to size line bore it and you are good to go! Now I know that I"m going to get beat up about saying this but that is how I'm seeing this.
I'm not intending to bash anyone, it's just my public school way of thinking that makes me think K.I.S.S Keep it simple silly, is the way to go.
Hope you all can understand what I'm thinking.

themack56

iTrader: (70)

lol. you CANT sleeve iron blocks.

themack56

iTrader: (70)

yes ive worked with steve before. ill leave the price stuff up to him. you should call and ask. it will be cheaper then erl stuff .

themack56

iTrader: (70)

your saying that erl blocks are the only thing that can go this fast?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Only time I can think of when added weight is a good idea, is when you're making a boat anchor.

Other then that.. it's never a help.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Who told you that?

Tell that to Steve at Race Engine Development...he did it 4 years ago.....I guess he has no clue about sleeving.

LOL

Here ya go....you learn something new every day. I learned this 2 months ago.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...eve+iron+block

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I don't know much about sand rails....I figured a little more weight would help traction in the sand. But I guess the nobbies get them moving quick enough.

And swamp buggies with BBC's add weight to get traction out here in the Everglades.

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JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

They probably do it to stop hydroplaning and nothing else, mainly because that's the only way to do it.

mebuildit

You all make very good points, and I appreciate all that have showed me different ideas. Thank you for that.
As for my car being a sand duner, it's not. I plan on running this in the desert which is a totally different animal. A sand car is really light, some have turbo's, superchargers, Nitrous or all of the above. As for a desert car/truck, they usually are heavier due to bigger tubing and thicker wall tubing. My car will probably come in around 3000# and the Trophy Trucks that you see running the Baja 100 are 5000+lbs. But they are a totally different animal. So in a way, yes if I can save 100lbs, is a lot especially since it's hanging off of the rear of the car to begin with.
I guess, my main reason for asking all of these questions are. I really want to have a good reliable engine with really good parts inside, since I don't want to be stranded out in the middle of the desert somewhere for making the wrong decision with an engine.
But again, thank you all for helping me with this subject. I have learned so much.

-Greg

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I've done alot of my own research, especially over the past 10 months or so. I have an LSX iron block sitting in a crate and it's killing trying to decide what to build. It simply depends on power goals, you and I already know what we're going to do with the engine.

I think, even though you have a sand rail and I have a 100% full weight street car.....a resleeved LS2 is the best choice. Its the lightest block for your goals....and its all I need for my goal as far as strength and reliability. It will easily live a long time at 900-1,000 hp if its simply TUNED perfectly. Its all about the tune.

Resleeved LS2..........there ya go. Call Steve at RED and get going on your project.

Also....blocks don't make power...the TOP END does. You're gonna have to pick the proper top end, and of course the cam and match it all up, to have a kickass engine.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The swamp buggies I'm talking about aren't those ones that haul *** across the water. These maybe do like 25-30 mph through the goop, weeds and up to 8 feet of water. My friends have them to go out into the Everglades. They must be heavy or they will spin out easier, then you need to have one of your half-track buddies come yank you out.
Its kind of like when a pickup truck gets stuck in the mud, a bunch of guys jump in the bed and it drives right out.

Thats the type of heavy where extra weight helps.

Sand rails sound like a shitload of fun, hauling *** across smooth sand. I gogled and saw some pictures, looks liek the tires act as paddles for the sand instead of the water.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Cool.

Are those the tires you use in the sand? Can you use those paddle looking tires too?

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mebuildit

Can an LS2 be dry sumped like the LS7? or do I need an external pump for that?

mebuildit

No, those tires are just ones that I found at a garage sale until I get the real ones. As for putting paddles on the car? I'm not going to the dunes, I'm only going out to the desert. I don't like the dunes with all of the drunks and thieves that are there. I've seen so many people killed there for being drunk and stupid, it's not worth it to me to put my family at risk, because of someone being stupid behind the wheel.
Now I'm not saying that everyone who goes to the dunes is bad, but it just takes one person to ruin it for me.
I grew up racing in the desert on a motorcycle, and just love the desert vs. sand.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you can dry sump the LS2.

Lots more info if you search...or just ask in a new thread about the dry sump: I found this real fast:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...t=dry+sump+ls2

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