JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

When looking for methods to reduce my cost on this LS3 motor build and keep it reliable, I started looking at staying with the OEM main bolts instead of going with the ARP main stud kit (which I used in my LS1). I've already decided to stay with the OEM bolts due to cost, so this question is more out of curiosity.

The LS1 was line honed when using the ARP's, and I found some conflicting information elsewhere on the forum. So, should you line hone when installing main studs? If yes, why?

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

On an LS block we typically don't see the main journal change with ARP studs, however bolts or studs on a virgin block the main journal is .0005" under our blueprint spec. IIRC 2.7508" is what we normally measure on a virgin block.

so to answer your question we line hone all blocks we build.

racer7088

I usually do see them change depending on whether they are iron or aluminum so we always reline hone them.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i agree. when i installed the main studs on my 6.0 iron block, i saw .0015 O-o-R.

racer7088

Yes some definitely move more than others but most aren't that round when you torque them down from what we've seen so line honing is definitely a good thing!

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

At least when its honed, you know its right...

99SS-T

iTrader: (5)

Kinda back from the grave with this one but, What happens when ya dont line hone them? Immediate failure or shortened life or just a chance at something or maybe nothing? With the motor out what does this usually cost? Thanks!!

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

Their was a shortblock recently someone brought us, guy put it together in his garage, used clevite standard bearings, stock crank, main studs. Crank wouldn't spin.

Between main journal out of round and tight to begin with. Once it was line honed, measured .002" on the mains.

We charge $175 to line hone a block.

99SS-T

iTrader: (5)

So since mine does spin, IE turn by using a ratchet on the crank bolt, it might be ok to go with it? Or is it a all out BAD idea? I hate the idea of taking this ****** back out.
Also when ya say 175 to do the work does that include removing anything? Would i have to hand you a bare shortblock? Or can it be a long block minus crank?
Thanks!

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

its a bad idea, even if it does spin, your going to have premature bearing wear.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

IIRC my local shop charged $150 for my line hone on that motor. I'm pretty sure they need the bare block, crank and caps, and I would doubt the quoted price includes disassembling or reassembling a shortblock. Compare peace of mind and long term longevity with the amount of inconvenience you'll incur.

99SS-T

iTrader: (5)

Damn. Thats what i get for expecting arp studs as standard. *******. When i talked to them about it afterwards when they said ohh well all our shop cars we use the stock tty bolts on as they hold up great. All i could do is sigh. Now that i tossed studs in and THEN found out that ya cant jsut do that i have to take the engine back out and disassemble it and then get it ****** honed. Just when i was thinking i had the initaitive to finish this ****** project. Oh well maybe next decade.

Was thinkin about it. When they built the engine would they have align honed it for the TTY's? IE since it was prolly not a new block, i just dont remember if it was as it was 5 years ago now, would they have align honed it just to freshen it up? I know it would have been to TTY bolt specs but just wondering. Also, and im putin alot on the wish list here, when i changed the bolts i took 1 out at a time and put the studs in and torqued them 1 at a time. Is there any chance that did anythign to help my situation?
I know i wont get any good news but im at that point where i was thinkin about doin the last bit of wiring and gettin really excited and now Im lookin at having to do alot more work to make this happen. And Im feeling a crying fit coming on.

Thanks to everyone who has been able to help me. Even if its not what i wanna hear.


John

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i know this is not what you want to hear, but more than likely, and this is what i learned from class, when your using the stock fasteners, its not neccessary to align hone it unless it is out of wack. with a stud, its going to change the clamping force of the fastener itself. insted of the bolt pulling down on the cap, the nut on the stud is trying to pull the stud out of the block using the cap as leverege. basically putting the stress of the crank on the block insted of the bolt.

so, with that said, the fact that the block is essentially being pulled up and the cap pushed down, it really does do a number on ovaling the housing bores. its best to align hone it, even if it doesnt measure out of spec too much, or is just on the edge of being out of spec, once it heats up and gets some load on it, it will tend to push it further.

99SS-T

iTrader: (5)

Oh well. Im on the phone with AZ speed and marine atm to get prices and schedule a visit. At least ill get to do soem needed cleaning of the engine bay that i was lazy about before. Make it tidier.

Thanks for all the help guys!

quadman

iTrader: (3)

For your entertainment, 1 align-honed block + 1 six year-old kid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMPDq4ica60

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I've replaced bolts with studs on two of my builds and both were "free rollers" as yours is, including my turbo Buick motor with 0.0018" main clearances. Might be a no brainer for full race apps, but for street stuff, a good "roll" is the tell...

racer7088

That's how a crank ought to spin. Looks good. In another few years you can have that lil munchkin cleaning parts and doing some more work for you! He'll have a one million per cent better idea of how this stuff works than most kids who haven't ever even seen the inside of an engine too.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Your "PA Speed" secret is out now Greg.