Compstar LSC vs. Stock LS2 rods ?
#4
I dont know what you do with connecting rods, but I dont care if they fit in my wallet, dont care what some chic wants to do with them, or what you do with them in your spare time...
Sorry I didnt clarify it enough.... Better for the application they are used for... as in connecting the crank to the piston in an internal combustion engine. Better as in... does one surpass the other when dealing with the ability to handle power? how much is not important, im not asking the limits, Im asking which one is better.... Which one would be more prone to failure first.
Maybe someone else can chime in and define it better if you still dont understand. Sorry I dont have time to draw a picture... my crayons are all dull.
Sorry I didnt clarify it enough.... Better for the application they are used for... as in connecting the crank to the piston in an internal combustion engine. Better as in... does one surpass the other when dealing with the ability to handle power? how much is not important, im not asking the limits, Im asking which one is better.... Which one would be more prone to failure first.
Maybe someone else can chime in and define it better if you still dont understand. Sorry I dont have time to draw a picture... my crayons are all dull.
#6
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At what point do the stock rods take a dump? The older style non-floating pin rods stand up to alot of power(pre-2005 rods), 700 and 800whp in some of these cars, and the LS2 style floating pin rods are supposed to be stronger. I swear I saw a pic comparing them and the LS2 rods looked more substantial that the LQ4 rods. I cant find it now of course.
Can anyone point me to a thread anywhere where a stock rod failed other than with stock rod bolts? Ive often wondered how bad the stock rods really are, you always hear about it but I havent seen any evidence. I dont mean that as aggressively or argumentary (is that a word) as it sounds, I'd really like to know more about the stock rod strengths too.
Can anyone point me to a thread anywhere where a stock rod failed other than with stock rod bolts? Ive often wondered how bad the stock rods really are, you always hear about it but I havent seen any evidence. I dont mean that as aggressively or argumentary (is that a word) as it sounds, I'd really like to know more about the stock rod strengths too.
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#9
TECH Resident
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I've got a set here sitting on my bench and they look decent, but nothing to write home about. Not that looks mean squat on a rod, but they do have a ARP 8740 7/16 capscrew and if they have the good qc of the other compstar stuff I'd think they will work fine for most. The caps have a rib for strength built in (stockers don't) and they only weigh 598g (weight on the sheet not scale) I was going to run the Scat pro comp I beams(bushed 6.125 SBC rod) in a economy 383 for a friend, but these were substituted for the same price as they were all out of the scats.
Fraser, have you had any problems with these rods? Or just going by looks as to not use them for a power adder build. My friend won't test even rods in his mild 383 NA, but just wondering why you thought no power adders? I can't see the stock rods taking more abuse, but without testing who knows.
Fraser, have you had any problems with these rods? Or just going by looks as to not use them for a power adder build. My friend won't test even rods in his mild 383 NA, but just wondering why you thought no power adders? I can't see the stock rods taking more abuse, but without testing who knows.
#10
FormerVendor
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I've got a set here sitting on my bench and they look decent, but nothing to write home about. Not that looks mean squat on a rod, but they do have a ARP 8740 7/16 capscrew and if they have the good qc of the other compstar stuff I'd think they will work fine for most. The caps have a rib for strength built in (stockers don't) and they only weigh 598g (weight on the sheet not scale) I was going to run the Scat pro comp I beams(bushed 6.125 SBC rod) in a economy 383 for a friend, but these were substituted for the same price as they were all out of the scats.
Fraser, have you had any problems with these rods? Or just going by looks as to not use them for a power adder build. My friend won't test even rods in his mild 383 NA, but just wondering why you thought no power adders? I can't see the stock rods taking more abuse, but without testing who knows.
Fraser, have you had any problems with these rods? Or just going by looks as to not use them for a power adder build. My friend won't test even rods in his mild 383 NA, but just wondering why you thought no power adders? I can't see the stock rods taking more abuse, but without testing who knows.
#11
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Yea, and they don't make a race bearing that I have found (just standard) for a .002" over size after honing the rods. I guess I was wondering how the lsc rods compared to the Scat pro comp SBC rods. More people running the Scats and seem to have good luck with them in engines making a decent amount of power.
#12
FormerVendor
Yea, and they don't make a race bearing that I have found (just standard) for a .002" over size after honing the rods. I guess I was wondering how the lsc rods compared to the Scat pro comp SBC rods. More people running the Scats and seem to have good luck with them in engines making a decent amount of power.
-Adam @ Callies
#13
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I actually have your h beam in my 383, but this one will never see a power adder or much over 500 hp/tq (flywheel)so I think your lsc stuff will work well. It's pretty much a set it up and forget about it type deal and I like how light the rods are. When combined with the Mahle pistons it's a reasonably light rotating ***.
#14
FormerVendor
I actually have your h beam in my 383, but this one will never see a power adder or much over 500 hp/tq (flywheel)so I think your lsc stuff will work well. It's pretty much a set it up and forget about it type deal and I like how light the rods are. When combined with the Mahle pistons it's a reasonably light rotating ***.
#15
Our LSc rod is pretty comparable to the Scat Pro Comp I beam rod. However as mentioned before, these are designed for mild power, but they are a bit stronger than stock. IMO, while you are at it, and if you plan on stepping it up in the future, throw in our H-Beam (CSC6125DS2A2AH). I know there is added cost, but at the end of the day, its cheap insurance.
-Adam @ Callies
-Adam @ Callies
#16
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As mentionned above, there are 4 main advantages to running a "entry level" rod in the LS motors:
1. less weight for those not needing a H beam rod
2. a SBC wrist pin opens up the piston selection (try finding a piston for a 6.099" rod with .944" pin, off the shelf is slim pickings)
3. stronger rod bolt.
4. less cost
The added benefit is with less beef, no need to clearance the cylinders. Many H-beams will hit the block on a 4" stroke.
1. less weight for those not needing a H beam rod
2. a SBC wrist pin opens up the piston selection (try finding a piston for a 6.099" rod with .944" pin, off the shelf is slim pickings)
3. stronger rod bolt.
4. less cost
The added benefit is with less beef, no need to clearance the cylinders. Many H-beams will hit the block on a 4" stroke.
#17
What size rods bolts do the LS2 have? The compstar ones I have are 3/8 ARP 8740.
The paper that came in the box says all compstar rods have ARP 2000 bolts... ? yet these dont. When I bough them (private seller) I was told they had the ARP 2000 bolts but they showed up they dont. Im just debating what to do with these..... run them or sell them and get a better set. ?
The paper that came in the box says all compstar rods have ARP 2000 bolts... ? yet these dont. When I bough them (private seller) I was told they had the ARP 2000 bolts but they showed up they dont. Im just debating what to do with these..... run them or sell them and get a better set. ?
#18
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I think the sheet is for the other compstar rods. I think the sheet is the same as when I got my compstar h beams about 3-4 years ago and the lsc wasn't even out then. I guess I didn't look close enough to the bolts as I just glanced at them and thought they were 7/16th, but did you measure them 3/8th?
If you are going turbo, etc I'd probably go with something a step stronger if you want to max out the setup. Not saying those wouldn't work (as the cranks have proven to take a beating by some), but a little insurance would go a long way.
If you are going turbo, etc I'd probably go with something a step stronger if you want to max out the setup. Not saying those wouldn't work (as the cranks have proven to take a beating by some), but a little insurance would go a long way.
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I bent a stock rod at 950hp only one bent though maybe it was a weaker one, but this was with light pistons. if you go heavier aftermarket piston i wouldnt run stock rods really high on the power or rpm .
I think people start bending the cheap aftermarket rods around(600 dollar ones ) 1800 hp
I think people start bending the cheap aftermarket rods around(600 dollar ones ) 1800 hp