Head studs vs main studs
Guys Im not going to get super defensive over this, but keep in mind that not everyone has limitless funds. Im a full time student and dont make much at my job for the time being. The problem I have is paying so much for ARP studs where it seems to be overkill. I see ls7 motors with bolts and they're safely making 500fwhp. Ill be making maybe 570fwhp without nitrous. Now Ive heard a lot of good advice so far so thank you. Now I guess the question I have now is if I go with main studs now and get it align honed, then I get my block bored and honed with a torque plate, can I switch over to head studs when I get them? The block came with factory main bolts, but I believe they were already torqued so I need new fasteners regardless. Easier to go with main studs now and get head studs later. One more thing, if I get it align honed do I still use standard size main bearings? I have a set of clevite H bearings for my callies crank. Sound about right guys?
*No one here is talking about using junk yard parts to make crazy horsepower so Im not sure where that came from.*
*No one here is talking about using junk yard parts to make crazy horsepower so Im not sure where that came from.*
It's perfectly acceptable to use GM bolts, the 620hp LS9 uses GM bolts. 700hp EMC engines use GM bolts. However, it is not acceptable to swap in ARP studs without honing the mains. If you want to use GM bolts, you put them in and leave them alone. If you want to use ARP studs, put them in now while you can have the mains align honed.
If the price of head studs is holding you back, have you looked at ARP head bolts? They are almost half the price and are more than enough for 570bhp. Whichever you decide to use, it would be best to have them when the cylinders are torque plate honed. You can swap to something else later, but it kind of defeats the purpose of torque plate honing and trying to get the cylinders as round as possible when everything is torqued. Think of it as not getting your money's worth.
You may be able to use STD main bearings, it depends on the crank and what clearance you want to run. Let the machinist have them when the block is align honed. He will be able to adjust the housing bores accordingly to get closer to the bearing clearance you want to run.
