Just got a new lqx block and am wondering if I should get main studs or head studs first. Im not going for huge rpm and its going to be a 408 with ported ls3 heads and a huge cam. A 150 shot as well and not driven all the time. Im leaning towards getting the head studs later when I get a turbo and just using GM bolts for now.

 

IMHO, you should save up and get both before the engine is built so that the engine block can be machined (line honed and torque plate honed) with the studs.

 

If I use regular gm bolts for both do I still have to have it line honed? All I planned on doing was getting it bored to 4.030 since its a new block.

 

your suppose to use the fasteners you plan to use to assemble the engine, to do all the honing. Especially main studs.

 

Yeah I know, but do I have to get this block line honed? Its brand new.

 

Not necessarily. Your machinist should check for the "need to hone", but you will need crank, bearings, and the correct fasteners for them to do this.

 

I already got a callies 4" crank and rods plus wiseco pistons. Clevite H main and rod bearings on the way. Anyone know part numbers for GM main bolts and head bolts?

 

Probably not, but you won't know until someone measures it.

 

Have your machine shop bore it to fit your piston, while he's doing that, he can confirm crankshaft CL. I'd keep the main bolts if $ is an issue

 

The bolts or studs are cheap insurance on a new build. If you tear it down then you'll have to replace the GM bolts again. Some people do run the stock head bolts over. I wouldn't.

 

Im going to use GM head bolts and main bolts and as soon as I get extra money ill put in studs instead of the regular bolts.

 

You can't just buy main studs and slap them on you'll need to line hone the mains. The both sets of bolts are about 350 bux and they are reusable and way better bolts. Do it once and do it right!

 

^ ditto. If you swap to main studs, they cause the caps to clamp differently and will throw the main alignment off. If you're going to go with studs, do it now. Head studs aren't the same way, you can swap to those any time you want, just make sure your block is torque plate honed...

 

That is exactly what people have been telling you NOT to do!!

If you listen to any piece of advise anyone here has to offer, please do the main studs first so that you won't risk blowing up the engine. If you switch from GM head bolts to ARP studs, at worst you lose a little ring seal, but thats better than blowing up an engine.

 

Thats good advice. Why do some people cheap out on important parts. Do it rigth the first time. Sometimes I think its sites like this where people get the idea that they can make insane amount of power or run awsome times with stock , or junk yard parts. Others post it up and wham everyone can do it. I find in reality they might make a few passes or some dyno runs but the engine usually lets go pretty quickly. This is the part they don't tell everyone.

Its like the class racers running races and then having to tear their shitz down every round or every night. Sure they make great power and run awsome but at what cost.

 

If you know what you are doing? Install your crank and tighten main caps to spec with the gm bolts. ( I am assuming your bearing clearances are within spec in what I am suggesting here) If the crank rotates freely you are good to go. There is nothing wrong with the gm bolts unless you are building an 800 hp engine. I used gm bolts even on the heads on my ls7 build(600whp) and it is fine. I like arp stuff and use it but the cost is ridiculoss if you do not need it. A lot of advice you receive on the forums is overkill because it is hearsay advice rather than actual self learned knowledge. There are not infrequent instances when unnecessary machine work is done to the detriment of the block. ie the factory machining is superior in many cases to what your local shop will do. I am sure I will catch h--- for saying this but it is true. The unknown here is DO YOU the Op KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING?

 

Guys Im not going to get super defensive over this, but keep in mind that not everyone has limitless funds. Im a full time student and dont make much at my job for the time being. The problem I have is paying so much for ARP studs where it seems to be overkill. I see ls7 motors with bolts and they're safely making 500fwhp. Ill be making maybe 570fwhp without nitrous. Now Ive heard a lot of good advice so far so thank you. Now I guess the question I have now is if I go with main studs now and get it align honed, then I get my block bored and honed with a torque plate, can I switch over to head studs when I get them? The block came with factory main bolts, but I believe they were already torqued so I need new fasteners regardless. Easier to go with main studs now and get head studs later. One more thing, if I get it align honed do I still use standard size main bearings? I have a set of clevite H bearings for my callies crank. Sound about right guys?

*No one here is talking about using junk yard parts to make crazy horsepower so Im not sure where that came from.*

 

I just told you that it was fine to use the factory bolts for your build. I guess you are argueing with yourself. Anyway, good luck. You ever wonder why so many guys have trouble with ring sealing, oil pressure problems, make less hp than stock bottom end blocks do. Here is the reason. Inaccurate work from their machine shop. If you have a new block build with what you have...why do needless machining to it just because someone on the internet tells you to?

 

Hey dont get offended but, I don't have endless funds either. I gave 4 kids, house, 1 in college, 3 in private school, "race car" , a girl-friend and a wife on the side!

It's been over a year trying to get everything I want for this build trying to get the part will work together and get me where I want to be.

 

If you are using a 1000 dollar stroker crank and 1000 dollar new block I would go with studs as insurance but if it were something like a 100 dollar 5.3 iron block and a used stock crank the studs will cost more than the block and crank combined so it doesn't make sense to spend the money then. If you don't mind fixing it if it breaks then the stock stuff should be just fine.