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Who has successfully primed their engine using the starter method?

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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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Default Who has successfully primed their engine using the starter method?

Just wondering because I'm having a hell of a time priming my block using the starter and battery. I've cranked it a few times and still have not been able to get any pressure to my mechanical oil gauge. I've cranked it for 10 seconds straight paused for thirty and over again, for about 6 times now. I've read where some people just put it back in the car and crank it (turn it on) and it gets pressure. I was hoping to see oil pressure before it goes in car. Please help, I made sure that the o-ring on the pick up tube was not pitched, what am I doing wrong?? HELP...LOL
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:12 PM
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A good hot battery, pull the plugs to free up psi, and be sure the oil filter is full. Worked for me.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MillsMotorvation
A good hot battery, pull the plugs to free up psi, and be sure the oil filter is full. Worked for me.
^ This worked for me as well. I saw 40PSI when I let off the ignition switch.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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I had trouble getting mine primed too. I found out that I wasn't cranking it long enough. It took about 15 sec. straight before I got pressure, 10 sec wasn't long enough.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:57 PM
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So what am I doing wrong guys, I'm frustrated cuz I dont want to break anything. How long did it take for all of you to prime it?? Camaro 83 I think I've done about 15 secs also and still no pressure. I thought I put the o-ring right? If the o-ring was pinched what would happen then? I tripple checked the o ring before I installed everything what gives?? I'm using cables connected to my truck so I know the battery is good. Should I poor another court of oil (7) to see if it will prime?
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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It's so frustrating thinking I will have to take it off the K member and disassemble the the block!! Someone else told me that the starter only cranks 150 rpm and it's not enough, but if ou guys did it I must be doing something wrong...
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tirefire
It's so frustrating thinking I will have to take it off the K member and disassemble the the block!! Someone else told me that the starter only cranks 150 rpm and it's not enough, but if ou guys did it I must be doing something wrong...
You'll get it... Someone here posted a vid of a guy using a breaker bar on the balancer bolt (engine on a stand) and he was able to spin it fast enough to get 40 PSI.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Here are a couple things that will help. Put a bunch more oil in the engine...this gets the oil closer to the pump to ease the prime. I also have had luck with spinning it for 5 sec. Wait 10 minutes and repeat. Make sure you do not have the injectors squirting fuel on your new cylinder walls and having the plugs out as was said. You will get 40psi easy from the starter. Do not forget to let the extra oil out of the pan.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ChucksZ06
Here are a couple things that will help. Put a bunch more oil in the engine...this gets the oil closer to the pump to ease the prime. I also have had luck with spinning it for 5 sec. Wait 10 minutes and repeat. Make sure you do not have the injectors squirting fuel on your new cylinder walls and having the plugs out as was said. You will get 40psi easy from the starter. Do not forget to let the extra oil out of the pan.
LOL. Funny I just got back from Oreilly's with 6 more quarts of vr1. This thing is going to prime one way or another. So far I've put 4 more quarts I'll try it again in the morning. I tried putting oil through the oil sending unit port but it went down very very slow (turtle slow). I put some in both heads (rockers) to lube them a little more. Thanks for all the help guys I'll keep everyone posted.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Good news guys the addition of oil helped out in priming the engine. I cranked the starter and within 5 seconds I got 42 psi of oil. Woo hoo, thanks to everyone again.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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Damn good news!!
I've been subscribed since day one and I'll be priming mine soon.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by litle88
Damn good news!!
I've been subscribed since day one and I'll be priming mine soon.
Yea bro just put alot of oil in the block (10 qts). What I did, since the engine was already on the K-member I tilted the block foward so the oil could get to the oil pump. I placed a mechanical gauge in the back of the intake (oil sending) port and it worked perfect.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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When i put the engine in the car after newly assemble with the correct lubricant, there's no need to prime it, just start it up, if your trannie is auto be sure it's filled up first, and all fluids are at the correct level, i take my engine apart after 1100 hp blasting s and the bearings look like they haven't yet found the crank, in fact this may sound crazy but i re use my rod and main bearings all the time....Boost....
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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I might be missing something but i thought the whole point of priming your engine before it is installed is to get oil primed every where before the motor starts turning in the bearings????
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 10camaross
I might be missing something but i thought the whole point of priming your engine before it is installed is to get oil primed every where before the motor starts turning in the bearings????
Yeah, that's a nice thought, but (from what I read here) the GM service manual says priming is not necessary, just start the engine and build oil pressure that way.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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Pull the plugs and the fuel pump relay. Remove the valve covers and poor oil all over the valve train. Make sure the oil filter is full. Fill the oil pan about 1/2 a quart over.

Turn the ignition over for 10 sec intervals. Repeat until you see the pressure.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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I might be missing something but i thought the whole point of priming your engine before it is installed is to get oil primed every where before the motor starts turning in the bearings????
When an engine is running the oil pressure keeps the bearings from contacting the steel surfaces of crankshaft. When an engine is assembled oil is put on the bearing surfaces which gives lubrication for a little while. Combustion puts pressure on the bearing surfaces and without oil pressure you are asking to get metal to metal contact. Everytime you start an engine there is a moment without oil pressure but to make this last any longer than necessary is not good. This is why I like synthetic oils cause they stick to the metal longer than regular oil...good for engines that are not started frequently.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ChucksZ06
When an engine is running the oil pressure keeps the bearings from contacting the steel surfaces of crankshaft. When an engine is assembled oil is put on the bearing surfaces which gives lubrication for a little while. Combustion puts pressure on the bearing surfaces and without oil pressure you are asking to get metal to metal contact. Everytime you start an engine there is a moment without oil pressure but to make this last any longer than necessary is not good. This is why I like synthetic oils cause they stick to the metal longer than regular oil...good for engines that are not started frequently.
Oh okay I understand.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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Remove the spark plugs first. This will allow the engine to crank very quickly and keep the load low on the battery, starter, and reciprocating assembly. While cranking, floor the gas pedal. This will help the engine crank quicker and usually shuts off the injectors on many engines. You will have to pull a fuse or relay for the ignition coil(s). Leaving the plug wires just dangling with the current no place to go may damage the ignition.
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