assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

Back in April my engine lost oil presurre and I found out the bearings were going bad I had the engine rebuilt and below are the engine specs.

I finally have the car up and running and iam still breaking the engine in I have driven the car about only 30 miles but with the cops around my town I cannot drive it a lot this is more of a track car but have let is idle for hours with no issues and have done over 15 to 20 temperature cycles. I have changed the oil once and found the normal dust metal specs that are normally found in a new engine. Now the car has 10w30 synthetic oil. The car starts great and oil pressure is at 65 to 70lbs upon start up and after it gets to operating temperature it drops to about 37-40lbs at idle I thiinks is fine since it is close to 110 degrees outside. the car runs & idles great and it does not miss.

THE PROBLEM
When I rev the car up when is idealing it smokes white to gray smoke it is not a huge cloud but you can definitly see it it is only when i rev the car it does not do it when the car is idealing only when I rev it and let off the gas. Now the werid part is that I drove the car and did some pretty hard pulls and I did not notice any smoke behind me the car feels as strong as it ever has but I am finding oil in the spark plugs and 3 or 4 are pretty fouled up. I went and bought new spark plugs than ran the car for 1 hour than I just took the plugs out in the morning and they were getting pretty dark already I have attached some pics of the first set spark plugs.

My question what do you guys think it is I tried to give you as much info as I could if you need any other info let me know

414 6.0 engine
l76 intake 92mm throttle body (NO PCV system just 1 breather in each valve cover)
l92 ported heads with new comp cams 26921 spring kit installed all the seals seats retainers locks were installed new the guides were reused
manley valves
ARP head studs
diamond N2O pistons
Total seal rings gapless 2nd rings
compstar rods
Morel Lifters
New Melling Oil pump
New LS2 timing Belt
New Water pump
New Alternator
ARP main studs
all new bearings and seals installed in the engine
new underdrive powerbond pulley

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

COPO9560

Just a guess but it does not look like your rings have set yet. Some load on the engine will be necessary, idle not going to do it. You might consider using a real oil until break-in is complete, synthetics are not the best for this applicaiton.

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

What kind of oil would you say is best? Also my question is what do race cars do since they can't drive them for 500 miles till break in what do they do for them to have the rings set.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

High zinc/phosphorous break-in oil is what I'd use, or break-in additive such as Comp or Redline. And enough w/ the idling, crappy way to break in a new engine. Take it out and drive it reasonably w/ the right oil in it.

You used great components, hopefully the shop that fitted the rings knew how to set the end gap for a street + nitrous engine and didn't go too crazy. Call them up and ask what they used for the compression ring end gaps and post it here for review.

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

I will call them next monday their shop is closed until next week for vacation the guys that built the engine have very good reputation here and have heard nothing but good things about the race engine they build.

I will drain the oil and add some break in additive to the mix. I just took the car out for anohter 10 mile drive and I felt very strong.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

I would assume it's tuned up fairly rich being first startup. I'd be willing to bet you're seeing just as much fuel smoke as you are oil. As stated, use a proper breakin oil and find out what the rings were gapped at.

I'm assuming on a stroked nitrous setup youve got a wideband to look at? What's it saying?

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

THe car was just refreshed so the tune is the same as it was before and it runs and idles just like it did when I was running mid 9 sec passes but with the colder plugs it has always been tuned on the rich side I do plan on having the car retuned soon. so I can lean it out a little bit since I know the car has always ran rich I do not have AF readings but by looking at the plugs I can tell.

Here is the kicker I do have a new PLX wide band but my computer is not recognizing it and I am not able to data log at the moment I do plan on buying the gauge in the next week or so I can get the readings of the A/F

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I would get it on a dyno and check the tune. If its too rich you could gas wash the rings and you'll need a rebuild. It happened to one of my brand new 43xci LSx strokers years ago. Gas washed the cylinders because it was pig rich and I had no idea, and had to pull it out and have it rebuilt two months later because the rings never seated. Builder did it under warranty, thank god.

Break in should be WOT throttle runs right from the get...go. Thats what all LSx's get from the factory. No idling.

.

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

I will try to get it on the dyno and get it retuned asap I don't think is pig rich But I will also have the wideband issue fixed in about a week & I am gonna wait to drive it until then I do not want that to happen to me cannot afford it thanks for the info.

INTENESS

iTrader: (4)

Let the car see some rpm,need to get on it to make sure the ring seat.Try and not crusie the car at a steady rpm need to go up and down in the rpm's.

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

That is what everyone is saying to give the motor time to seat the rings and drive it around and I been doing a lot of searching and have found that is normal for motors to smoke a bit while they seat the rings specially since the rings were gapped for a 300 shot I will try to go to the auto parts store today and find some break in additive and drive it around.

It was just my initail reaction to freak out but I am going to give it some street time and I am going to take it to the track and run it on motor this weekend if I get my wideband gauge. Thanks for the info

cam

iTrader: (9)

Joe Gibbs break in oil. Use it. Dont run it until you gete it. Then BEAT the **** out of it. Follow this guide

http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/produc...akin/br30.html


Hope you didnt wash the rings off.... it dont take long....

oops here do it like this

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No oil additives. Never add off the shelf crap to your oil, it thins it out then bearings COULD suffer. Use all break-in oil or don't. Like "cam" mentioned.

Never add stuff to regular oil.

From what I've heard, the factory breaks in our engines like that link for mototuneusa.com. 3-4 full dyno pulls. I'd like to know if that's true.

.

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

Well i hope so too but i would not think so the car has not been run much at all. So would you reccomend to buy the oil and using that oil even if I have already ran the car?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

If it was rich enough to gas wash the cylinders, then 30 miles of casual driving and "hours" of idling......then there's nothing that will fix it. I tried when I gas washed mine and it didn't work.

But give it a shot.

Wish you luck man..............

.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

To seat the rings you need to get it up to temp that drive it hard. All that idling and light cruising didn't help anything.

All our new motor builds get hard runs on the dyno within 5 minutes of startup.Never had a problem with ring seating/smoke/oil consumption.

assassinz28

iTrader: (10)

Well I dumped the synthetic oil yesterday and I will put break in oil tomorrow then I am going to drive it like I stole it

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

hopefully its not too late...

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

I hope the person who install the pistons didn't crush the thin piece of the gap-less rings between the piston and the bore, i seen it happen and the one piston will still burn well, just see a lot more oil and blow- by... It seen like the colder running cldrs are #3 and 5, you may want to run a compression test, and see how far off those are, if that's the case, you will see a lot more blow-by, out the driver side valve cover breather.
If this is not the case, both breathers should see some what equal, relieve portion.