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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:59 AM
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Is it possible to bore the aluminum block to 3.898 like it is on an iron block. Or should i replace the sleeves
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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iron block or sleeve it

aluminum blocks only have enough material for a hone (0.05)
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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^^Incorrect. Many of the aluminum 5.3L blocks can be bored to the 3.90x" size! You just have to get the right castings....we offer them as an option on our 347ci and 383ci engines!
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
^^Incorrect. Many of the aluminum 5.3L blocks can be bored to the 3.90x" size! You just have to get the right castings....we offer them as an option on our 347ci and 383ci engines!
hey I learned something!

I know the earlier gen 3 blocks were more likely to not be a good candidate because of core shift that the later gen 4 blocks didnt have as much.

So, if the 5.3 block can be bored that much, how about the LS2/3 blocks?

I've read so many threads on here advising against boring aluminum blocks that much because of the wall thickness comapred to their iron counterpart.
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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You always have to check, but we have taken LS2 blocks .030" without issues, and LS3's to 4.100" without problems. Not all blocks can though, which is where the right machine shop comes into play.
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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Interesting, its good to finally hear some solid info about boring the aluminum blocks. Are there any good/bad signs for aluminum blocks that can be bored without having to risk buying a block and having it checked?
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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We check them all, period.
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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But say you are looking to buy one at a junkyard or whatever, any signs to look for?
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 04:07 AM
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Not really. If your in a place where "this block must be bored to x.xxx" or whatever, you have 2 choices...

Iron block or buy an aluminum block and have it checked and hope for the best. If not, buy another one. Repeat until you find one thick enough.

Regardless, of block material, you should have every block checked if boring past what is needed to clean up the walls. Period.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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Hi
I recently had my 2003 LM4 (5.3) aluminum block bored to LS1 specs and it still could go another .010 or so in the future. Plenty of meat left. Hope this helps.

Bob
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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Can you tell me the castings to look for

I know the earlier gen 3 blocks were more likely to not be a good candidate because of core shift that the later gen 4 blocks didnt have as much.

So, if the 5.3 block can be bored that much, how about the LS2/3 blocks?

I've read so many threads on here advising against boring aluminum blocks that much because of the wall thickness comapred to their iron counterpart.[/QUOTE]
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 08:07 AM
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Can any of you give me the casting no.s for aluminum block that has thicker walls and would be a good candidate. I already have an iron block but was thinking of wieght it is going in an 01 blazer
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by v82go
Hi
I recently had my 2003 LM4 (5.3) aluminum block bored to LS1 specs and it still could go another .010 or so in the future. Plenty of meat left. Hope this helps.

Bob
What were the results of your sonic test?
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
Not really. If your in a place where "this block must be bored to x.xxx" or whatever, you have 2 choices...

Iron block or buy an aluminum block and have it checked and hope for the best. If not, buy another one. Repeat until you find one thick enough.

Regardless, of block material, you should have every block checked if boring past what is needed to clean up the walls. Period.
my problem is I'd love the aluminum over iron for my 240sx and thompson had that 370 for $2000 but if maybe they would check their blocks for an aluminum capable of being bored over .030 that'd be the **** and I wont be adding 110lbs.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by lowrolr
Can any of you give me the casting no.s for aluminum block that has thicker walls and would be a good candidate. I already have an iron block but was thinking of wieght it is going in an 01 blazer
gen 4 blocks are likely to be your best bet, 2005+ would be a good year to start
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
my problem is I'd love the aluminum over iron for my 240sx and thompson had that 370 for $2000 but if maybe they would check their blocks for an aluminum capable of being bored over .030 that'd be the **** and I wont be adding 110lbs.
Why? Is that extra 6 cubes really necessary? What's wrong with a 364 that your going to add 110 extra lbs just to get a 370?
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
Why? Is that extra 6 cubes really necessary? What's wrong with a 364 that your going to add 110 extra lbs just to get a 370?
more cubes the better for me. I didnt want an iron block because of the weight but after searching a bunch I never got a def answer on what aluminum blocks could and couldnt be bored and by how much, hence the reason I started looking at the iron blocks. but now TSP is saying yes you can bore them if they check out.
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
more cubes the better for me. I didnt want an iron block because of the weight but after searching a bunch I never got a def answer on what aluminum blocks could and couldnt be bored and by how much, hence the reason I started looking at the iron blocks. but now TSP is saying yes you can bore them if they check out.
My point was, why does it matter if it can be bored or not? A 6.0 is a 6.0. Going .030 over will amount to nothing as far as power is concerned.

So again...what difference does it make?
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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Well depending on how much I can spend on a set of heads is the answer. Ideally, cathedral style trick flows in which case all is fine. However if I use ls3 style heads I could unshroud the intake valve some. Obviouslly not ideal, but an improvement.
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