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DOD delete diy

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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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Default DOD delete diy

I am working on a 07 5.3 with DOD, I am going to use it for racing so I am deleting the DOD. I have been searching the threads along with the web, I am aware that there are kits available to do this, but thought I would look into doing this lowbuck style. Aside from the cost of the cam, lifters and lifter guides which I will need anyway, It appears to me that with some simple mods to the oiling system I can use the stock valley cover and I won't need to buy a delete kit.

After a close examination, I looks like we can do this with some simple taps and plugs. In the block the 8 "towers" can be tapped and plugged stopping any oil loss from them. And on the other end of things. After removing the plate and all the silenoids from under the valley cover, there is a angled oil passage that feeds the solenoids. A tap and a plug will prevent oil from that direction.

Has anyone done this?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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are you tapping the oil "towers" without disassembling the motor or will you just be REAL careful not to get metal down in the engine?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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That is good you pointed this out, I am completely rebuilding the engine. If not yes one would have to take the time to keep any shavings from getting into the engine.

Also what is everyones thoughts on retaining the stock oil pump and simply installing a "lighter" stock spring from a gen III?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 08:55 PM
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What towers are you referring to? I also have an 07 5.3 that I am converted to non DOD for my turbo build
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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They are the 8 towers in the valley extending upward that seal against the bottom of the valley cover.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboMonte100
That is good you pointed this out, I am completely rebuilding the engine. If not yes one would have to take the time to keep any shavings from getting into the engine.

Also what is everyones thoughts on retaining the stock oil pump and simply installing a "lighter" stock spring from a gen III?
Yes, if you're rebuilding you can save a few bucks over the kits that are setup for doing the swap without pulling the motor.

The stock pump is HV, not HP. There's a bypass valve in the oil pan on the DOD engines that limit the max pressure since it can change as the VVT and/or DOD systems activate. Leaving the stock pump will just waste horsepower to pump all the volume that would just get bypassed..
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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It is my understanding that the stock pump produces a higher pressure, I don't know for fact but I have read where guys have replaced the spring with a lighter gen III spring. I am going to run twins, so my thought was to keep the HV pump.

I plan to either plug the bypass in the pan or most likely replace the pan, as this is going in a G body.
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboMonte100
They are the 8 towers in the valley extending upward that seal against the bottom of the valley cover.
So the ls2 valley cover eliminates this problem?
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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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I believe it does.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dean85gt
So the ls2 valley cover eliminates this problem?
Yes it has O-ring covers on the bottom of the valley cover that seals those 8 buggers. I just purchased the delete kit from TSP. I am interested in replacing the oil pump too. I was just going to buy a stock type LS2 oil pump myself along with a new 3 bolt timing chain set.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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If your going to completely rebuild the motor then yes tap the towers. If not it won't be worth the shavings getting in places you can't catch them. If not an Ls2/3 valley cover will block the oil like stated earlier. The only things to get on the cheap are used Ls2/3 valley covers, used Ls2/3 front timing covers. You still need lifters, lifter trays, 3 bolt cam, 3 bolt cam sprockets that match the crank reluctor to name a few. Does your crank have a 58 or 24 tooth crank reluctor?

Why not get a new oil pump? Cheap insurance if you ask me.
What's it going in?

Do it once and do it right, or end up paying twice I always say.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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Yes I am planning on the other items needed. I am starting to think that going with this engine for this project is (was) a mistake. I am putting this project together to see how fast I can go with a "stock" shortblock and maybe do some stock shortblock style racing. Unfortunately with this engine I am pretty much replacing everything. I think I may be better off finding a older gen III.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboMonte100
Yes I am planning on the other items needed. I am starting to think that going with this engine for this project is (was) a mistake. I am putting this project together to see how fast I can go with a "stock" shortblock and maybe do some stock shortblock style racing. Unfortunately with this engine I am pretty much replacing everything. I think I may be better off finding a older gen III.
You and me both! I am building a 6 liter L76 and the DOD delete and cam swap will set me back 1700 by the time I do all the other crap neccessary.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Thats the bad part, My only reason for going with this engine is because that it is aluminum. I'm afraid that after I do all the swapping, some guys will want to argue that it is not a stock shortblock anymore. I am kinda looking for a another 5.3, one that I can "freshen" and slap a cam in and go racing.
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