RabidVette

I have a supercharged 2007 C6 with about 18,000 miles. It's had the blower on it for about 16,000 miles. It's a completely stock LS2 down to the cam and valvesprings. Over the past summer, it began to spew oil out of the PCV breather, leading me to believe the rings are on their way out or there's one or more problematic valve seals. After a few highway WOT runs the other day, the car developed a loud knock. I pulled the heads off and can't find any damage, but I know it's in there somewhere. I've been wanting more power, so I figured this is the perfect time to strengthen the motor.

I need to do this as inexpensively as possible, but not to the point of jeopardizing the longevity of my build. I'll spend the money to do it right, but not any more than I have to. I'd like to push the little Novi 1500 that's currently on the car for all it's worth and hopefully end up with 825-850whp on 93 + meth. I want to build the motor and fuel system for 1000whp so that I can throw a YSI on the existing bracket down the road and chase 4 digit numbers.

With those goals in mind, I've put together the following build list. I've done plenty of cam swaps, blower installs, etc. but this is my first attempt at selecting components for a motor. I hope that members on here more knowledgeable than myself can provide me with feedback before I begin buying parts later this week.

My budget for this is around $15k for parts and labor.

- Keep stock LS2 block. I was told it can support 1000whp with factory liners, but not a whole lot more. Car will be at 850whp, maybe a max of 1000whp down the road.
- Callies Compstar 4" stroke crank
- Callies Compstar H-beam rods 6.125"
- Diamond pistons w/ Ackerly & Childs ringset & ARP 2000 rod bolts
- Clevite coated main & rod bearings
- HD tool steel wrist pins
- Cometic head gaskets
- ARP 2000 head studs & main studs
- ECS big blower cam (open to alternatives)
- PRC L92/LS3 CNC ported heads w/ PRC dual springs (open to alternatives below $2k)
- Hardened pushrods
- Fast LSxR 102mm intake manifold
- Fast 102mm throttle body
- Livernois Aeromotive A1000 stealth fuel kit
- Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors
- HPE Flip Drive 6-rib
- Pfadt motor and trans mounts


Machine Shop Labor

-Line hone with ARP main studs
-Set deck/surface block
-Hone Cylinders
-Wash block
-Indicate Main and Rod bearings and set clearance
-Hand file fit rings
-Race Balance rotating assembly


Existing components

- ECS Novi 1500 kit w/ Tial BOV, ECS intercooler, piping, CAI, etc.
- MSD boost a pump
- WCC coated longtubes, gutted x-pipe, Corsa Sport mufflers
- Pfadt coilovers
- Hardened axles
- Hurst shifter
- Monster level 5 clutch
- Bosch 60# injectors



Questions:

I'm assuming the 60# injectors won't come close at this power level, unless someone tells me otherwise. Feedback on the fuel system in particular would be welcomed since there's so many options and prices vary significantly. Would my MSD BAP have any use in this build?

The CNC'D LS3 heads w/ 102MM Fast setup I spec'd is costly. I can afford it, but if I find out that there's a cheaper alternative or that it won't get me a whole lot more power, I'll look at alternatives.

I decided to go with a 402 because I've heard of reliability issues with longer stroke 427 setups under boost, is this correct?

I'm planning on keeping the stock trans and Monster Level 5 clutch for now as long as I'm sticking around the 800-850whp range. The car will only be street driven on street tires for now. I'll build the trans down the road before adding more power or going to the track. Should it hold together under this scenario, or should I bite the bullet and do this up front?

Once I have everything finalized, I'm going to get parts on order this week. I'll be turning this into a build thread and documenting everything along the way.

PREDATOR-Z

You could stoke the LS2 to 427. Resleeved 4.125bore, 4.00 stroke. That takes care of the longer stroke and give you the cubes.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

If this was me, I would probably do an iron block for that much power. Would also ditch the LS3 heads for LSA heads with the thicker deck for high boost.

batboy

iTrader: (6)

Not sure about the injectors. You can try the 60 pounders and check the duty cycle. You will definitely need a fuel pump/fuel system upgrade though.

I'm not a fan of LS3 heads on a 4" bore, too much valve shrouding, in my humble opinion. If it were me, I'd probably go with Trick Flow 225 heads.

I would stay with the 4" stroke as you mentioned.

RabidVette

Thanks for the feedback; it's all helpful. Now I'm looking at an LQ9 again. I've seen enough people say that the stock LS2 block is holding strong in their >1000whp blower setups, so I decided to stick with it for the cost and weight savings as well as lower coolant temps. Now I'm entertaining an LQ9 again. Won't be much more expensive to buy an LQ9 shortblock from TSP or somebody else and then I won't have to worry about the local machine shop getting it right.

225 and LSA heads are good ideas as well that I'm looking into. I have an '09 CTS-V and I'm actually thinking about pulling the heads off of it and putting something better on there.

DaFireMan

iTrader: (5)

I'd resleeve the ls2 to make the 427 as mentioned above. It would get you to your goals faster, and the sleeves would give you the strength you need for this kind of build while at the same time keeping the weight down instead of buying a new lq9 block and just wasting a ls2 core. It would be the best of both worlds! A little more money for ALOT more strength and hp!

RabidVette

I agree with this advice. More cubes, less weight, lower coolant temps, plenty strong, more power. No downsides except cost. I agree this is the way to go, but if it's really the $2.5-$3k I've seen quoted, I'm not sure I can swing it.

I estimated about $1200 labor for honing and prepping my existing LS2 block. An LQ9 would add another $700 on top, but I could recoup some of it from my LS2 core. If resleeving my LS2 would really be $2.5-$3k on top of the other prep work to the block and I'd lose the core, it's probably pushing things a little too far.

If anyone can recommend a reputable shop for resleeving within an hour or two drive from Central PA, please let me know and I'll ask for a quote.

RabidVette

Still considering resleeving my existing block. Waiting on a quote from my builder. I'm trying to decide if I'll want a bigger blower down the line. I feel comfortable keeping the stock liners for 850whp, not so much for 1000whp.

I was speaking with my buddy who owns a local shop where I'll be doing the build, and he questioned why I was only doing a slight hone to clean up the cylinders and using 4.003 pistons for a 402 versus doing the standard .030 overbore for a 408. I explained to him that doing so would remove too much material from the stock cylinder liners and would cause reliability issues at the power levels I'm looking to achieve. He's not too familiar with LS motors but told me that he removes this much material from all types of sleeved motors and that there would be more than enough liner thickness so that doing so would not weaken the motor. I thought that doing more than a slight hone is a bad idea for high HP setups. Who is correct?

Realcanuk

I just today received my short block for my vette. Ls2 block stroked to 402. That combo will be fine for the power you want. You don't want to go .30 over on that block.
One thing I can tell you is the guy might be your buddy, but save yourself some grief. Find and use someone who knows LS engines. Bryan at LME built mine and he can give you the straight scoop on these engines if you give him a call.

RabidVette

Thanks for answering that question for me. I had a feeling someone would tell me to find an LSx specialist, and it's sound advice. I'm going to talk to ECS about it this afternoon and I'll give LMR a call as well. Congrats on the new motor.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

I wouldnt go with the ls3 heads. Youre on a small bore and valve shrouding is gonna happen. If you want ls3 look into the small bore heads like I have. Better valve angle, shrouding issue is taken care of, and increased ptv clearance, and you are moving way more air through a smaller than stock port.

DaFireMan

iTrader: (5)

$5500 427 erl shortblock(sending them your block)+ $2300 TSP PRC 250 LS3 heads is less then half of the budget you stated above! With 15k you should have change left after a shortblock, heads, motor swap, 8 rib belt setup, and new injectors! You should be able to check/rebuild your charger also with that budget man! Wish it was me!

Sellin misc. parts your gonna have laying around like heads(your fully assembled stock low mile ls2 heads) should be easy to get off of to add into your budget!

RabidVette

I dunno what to tell you man, it adds up quick!

402 rotating assembly w/ Compstar crank, Compstar H-beams, Diamond pistons, rings - $2155
Clevite coated main & rod bearings - $350
HD wrist pins - $200
Cometic head gaskets - $150
ARP head studs & main studs - $500
Blower cam - $420
Hardened pushrods - $110
Fast 102 intake manifold and T/B - $1360
RSI dual pump hat w/ twin 044's, -8AN feed, -6 return, boost reference regulator, billet rails, etc - $1495
ID 1000's (if I can get away with it) $944 or 2000's (if I run E85) $1600
Plugs & wires (stole my MSD wires to use on my Caddy) - $120
HPE Flip Drive - $789 (or 8-rib damper which would cost about the same)
NGK AFX wideband - $270
Mantic 9000 twin disc clutch - $1638
Hardened input shaft - $300
Pfadt motor & trans mounts - $530
3.73 ring & pinion (car has 4.10 currently - no good @ 800+ whp) - $300
C5R timing chain - $149

Let's be conservative and assume a set of heads like those suggested on this thread are $2200...

That brings me up to $13,980 assuming I only need the ID 1000's and just over a grand left over for machining, shop time, and shipping...

Like I said in my first post, if you see somewhere I'm pissing my money away, please let me know!

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

Now isnt the time to cheap out for sure. Nothing on that list is a waste, all good parts.

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

IIRC: To put Darton sleeves in my LS2 block was about $1,800. I run a 4 inch crank with 4.125 bore. You end up with a super strong block than can - if properly setup - last a very long time.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

^^^

Sleeve that bitch!

Realcanuk

Looks like a good list.
Add at least a few thousand for misc and things your forgetting. It does add up incredibly fast. Without thinking much about it I'd say your already forgetting lifters, rockers, and oil pump, all of which I would replace.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

For rockers unless you wanna drop some coin, I always suggest the trunion upgrade

Realcanuk

I agree. That's a very viable option and I would at least do that.

I'm really just pointing out I'm in the middle of exactly the same thing the op is. LS402 in my C6 vette, and although I thought that I had it all planned, stuff comes up so its best to have some extra cash aside in the budget.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

You have a lot of the parts lined out good. I would look for an alternative to your head choice and get the dallas performance direct drive over the other one. You don't need a iron block to achieve your power goal and maintain it. Good choice on getting rid of that monster clutch also. I would say you can get the aeroforce interceptor gauge in place of the ngk wideband. The aeroforce will monitor knock, boost, afr, fuel pressure, and whatever else you want it to.