LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

So, I am looking at a LS7 crank, rods, 7 pistons (dropped a valve), dry sump pan, pump, timing cover, and lifters for $700. I know I'll need new pistons for my 4" bore (may bore). So is that a deal? I know I should have balanced...

Give me any insight...

Thanks!

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

You wont be able to bore it to the 4.125 if you want that youre gonna have to sleeve it or find an ls7 block

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

I know...I'll run 4" pistons.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

Sleeve that bitch

You know you want that 427

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

The pistons will likely be expensive since I doubt someone makes an on the shelf set that have the correct compression height for the LS7 short rods and .925 wrist pins. It'd be a cool combo however if you could get it done but might be better to send your 6.0 block to RED or ERL and install dry 4.125 sleeves so you could have an LS7 with a not so fragile block.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

So depending on price...what about skipping the rods and running aftermarket rods?

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

You'ld be better off just finding a decent deal on a Compstar or similar aftermarket crank.

The counterweights on the OEM LS7 crank are only heavy enough for the featherlike LS7 rotating mass, so using it with aftermarket rods that probably weigh 150g+ more requires slugging the counterweights with Mallory before the rebalance, which erodes the savings you gained by using these parts.

Then if you don't want to run the dry sump you have to have the snout machined down to fit a standard pump/chain/timing cover. You can run the GM dry sump if you get it for free but I'll throw my opinion out there that it's not of much virtue in the average guys street car.

If I were you I'd either run those parts in a 4.125 or bigger crankcase, making a nice budget LS7 not burdened by the brittle factory sleeves, or try and get those parts for the best deal you can. Try and get it all for 5-600 and sell it all individually on eBay. Ask $100 apiece for the rod/piston combos and they'll all find homes as a #7 all over the country. Then with the crank and other parts youll probably end up with 1200+ you can put towards stuff that fits your block.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info...in searching I did find someone who said it cost $150 for the mallory slugs to be added. Now if I could get the $ back on selling the rods that would be awesome. I would love the uniqueness of having a factory dry sump efi motor in Chevelle. Maybe I'm justbeing silly.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That's a great deal! Just check to make sure the pump is okay since the engine dropped a valve.

The problem with using the rods is that the pin boss has a lot of material around it. With the short stroker pistons, there may not be room for the top of the rod to clear the piston.

However, you should be able to sell the rods for enough to pay for a set of decent H Beam rods and have the LS7 crank balanced.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

So if I do by it will be $800 for everything. I was already going to buy his set of lifters for $60. I checked on balancing and it sounds like it will be around $450 to buy slugs, add to crank, and balance. Do the rod and piston sets sell for much individually? I'm hearing so...

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Jason why dont you just overbore and go with an ls3 rotating assembly? They're cheap when you can find them out of the new camaros people dump money on. The iron blocks bore to 4.068 like a champ, and then you're in a great spot to use the equally cheap and powerful l92/ls3 heads

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

Something seems fun and different with a dry sump stroker. I need to look at cost of pistons for the odd stroke of the titanium rods also. Someone was telling me I could get a set made fir around $600... I would have a 402 for around $1400 including dry sump. $800 for used parts, $600 pistons, and $200 balance and bearings.

I could also take my CTS-V pan and use on notch and the lifters could go in notch motor. That's additional savings too.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

I haven't really researched how far I can bore...I have the aluminum Vortec Maxx (L76) Do they even go .030"?

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

Bought everything for $700...