Briou

iTrader: (1)

Not a whole lot has been done since the last big update....I have, however, checked piston to valve clearance using the clay method and this is what I came up with...There barely any contact between the valves and the clay, like none really to speak of, but there was one spot that the clay was compressed. You can see it in the picture, it is the point where the two valve reliefs on the piston come together. The measurement that I got right there was 0.059" of clearance. I feel like that is safe, expecially since the piston is the only thing moving at this contact point, seeing as where it contacts the head isn't in motion...let me know what ya'll think...




I also got some small plumbing stuff done like tying the fuel rails together, tying the vacuum rails together, and getting my fuel filters connected with each other....


The fuel filters are an 85micron followed by a 35micron filter, both with -8AN fittings on each end...

Jimbo1367

IIRC…………. the preferred clearance for P2V is .100 exhaust and .080 for the intake. Did you take any pics of the clay as it was deformed?

Briou

iTrader: (1)

No I forgot to take a pic of the clay prior to taking it off of the piston...I do plan on checking it again though just to be 100% sure, so I will take a pic of it then...

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

I always put a strip of clay across the valve reliefs on the piston, bolt the head down, turn crank a few times, remove head, cut each piece of clay and check thickness.

<.100" intake/.080 exhaust

EDITED

Briou

iTrader: (1)

That is basically what I did, but I only used one piece of clay across both valve relievs, and the valves barely even touched the clay....I am going to check again though because I was suing the hyd. lifters with the dual valve springs, so i want to check using the checker springs so the lifters don't collapse

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

What length push rod did you use to check P to V?

Did you check P to V with the push rods that I sold you?

You should have way more clearance than that.

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I checked with the pushrods I got from you...The PTV isn't whats at 0.059" it is the piston to head clearance....I didn't even bother with measuring the clay where the valves hit it because it only compressed it like 0.05"...I had about 0.25" on both int. and ext. valves to the piston....

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Where the red circle is in this picture is where I got the 0.059" of clearance between the head and piston...

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That .059" spot really doesn't mean anything, don't worry about it.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

You need to find zero lash with a push rod length checker with the cam on the base circle. Then use that length push rod to check P to V clearance.

Did you write down your zero lash measurements when you were measuring push rod length?

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Ok that is what I was thinking...especially seeing as the piston is the only thing moving in that spot...

Briou

iTrader: (1)

zero lash was 7.60" so the 7.65" was with a 0.05" preload

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Good deal, like I said on the phone that will give you .035-.040 at operating temperature with an aluminum block.

Briou

iTrader: (1)

had a good convo with Martin today and got some stuff figured out...also I am trying to work something out with Larry Meaux and Allan Futral to get this engine broken in and tuned on Larry's dyno cell....Hopefully I will get some more info on this in the next couple of days.

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Ok so it looks like I will actually be taking the engine to LME in Houston to get it broken in and tuned...I should be getting it there some time in August, fingers crossed...

I got the rear wheels in for the car....I think they are going to look sick....




Also this past weekend I was able to get some stuff done with the wiring harness that came with the holley dominator. I de-loomed a few sections so I could clean up the under hood appearance of the engine...I have the IAT, TPS, CPS, and CTS all running under the intake and coming out the front to their respective sensors...I also ran the injector harness up from under the intake, so the only part of it you see are the clips going on to the injectors....Now I am in the process of getting the rest of the wiring figured out, as well as starting in on the plumbing of the PS lines, coolant lines, fuel lines, brake lines, and pcv lines....I am hoping to get most of this done in the next few weekends so when the engine comes back from LME I can sit it down in there and hook it up, and possible drive the car before it goes off to paint and body...

D9HP

Are those CCW wheels?

Those are incredible! Looking forward to seeing this come along.

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, and yeah they are ccw classics powder coated flat black....I think they will look perfect on the car...

427zm

iTrader: (9)

Getting close Briou! Looking great!

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man...It is coming along nicely...

Briou

iTrader: (1)

Here are some pics of the wiring harness, sort of before and after...I didn't take as many pictures as I wanted to, but you can see in the picture of the engine with the intake on how clean the harness will look....

de-looming the top half of the harness...


Injector harness before


and after


and installed


and here is the engine with the complete harness installed, minus the alt. wire and the A/C wire...The Map and IAC will be mounted remotely and out of sight...The coils will be located up on the fire wall so they won't clutter up the engine too much more...


while I was messing with the wiring harness I was trying to figure out how and where to mount my intake air temp sensor....this is what I came up with...this is on the front of the intake...


I also got my brake booster and master cylinder installed for the time being...