6.0 build suggestions..
6.0 build suggestions.. Sup guys. Just picked up a good condition 6.0 for $150 from a friend. Its only missing the heads. Im torn between which way to turn to. Ive been toying with the idea of getting it bored out to 6.2l and using stock LS3 rods and pistons. Or keeping it stock and freshening it up with new cam, crank, and rod bearings, with a BIG cam and L92 heads with an LS3 intake. I kind of want to keep it naturally aspirated. But for the d eal I on it I couldnt turn it down!!!. Im not surr what year it is. Have to ask my buddy but it does have the front mounted cam sensor if that makes a difference. The plan is to rebuild it over the winter and replace my 5.3l in my S10 with this 6.0 or soon to be 6.2. Is all the extra machining to get it to 6.2l really worth it?
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Studewood/Acres-Homes TX.
Nope.......new pistons ..boring the block out....etc....for a extra what? 5-20hp on a engine that will more than likely will max at 500rwhp with a big *** cam and probably less with unported heads.
Nope...If you did anything get the heads ported....and a cam........ stay at 6.0
Nope...If you did anything get the heads ported....and a cam........ stay at 6.0
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,137
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From: Studewood/Acres-Homes TX.
There will be + & - between#1Cathedral and #2rectangle port ....For stock castings I would say#2 but if both were ported I'd say #1 this all because of your engine size
Just do this go look up: Hot Rod LS Cathedral Port comparison all heads are Cathedral
style except 1 head Mast Medium bore heads and at that particular lift and horsepower requirement .........................The rest will speak for itself also look at the difference in the stock ported heads.
Just do this go look up: Hot Rod LS Cathedral Port comparison all heads are Cathedral
style except 1 head Mast Medium bore heads and at that particular lift and horsepower requirement .........................The rest will speak for itself also look at the difference in the stock ported heads.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Studewood/Acres-Homes TX.
With your size engine......... I would personally use a ported #1 head style for a engine that size these are 2 of the cheapest and best choices of the heads that were tested....With all LS heads your intake choice will make a major diff in how well your heads will be able to Breathe
TEA LS6
Retail price: $1,320 (porting on customer-supplied head castings
ProComp Motorsport LS1****** Also made the most power and it's a Knock off head********
Retail price: $1,875
TEA LS6
Retail price: $1,320 (porting on customer-supplied head castings
ProComp Motorsport LS1****** Also made the most power and it's a Knock off head********
Retail price: $1,875
IMO if you are going to stay 6.0 then use a cathedral head. If you are going to go 6.2 then use an LS3 head.
A 4.0 bore shouds the valve too much with an LS3 head and kinda limits the power to be had. If you go 6.2 it helps to unshroud the valve and make more power.
No matter what head you go with make sure you cam them accordingly. LS3 heads don't need big donkey dick cams to make power. Most stock cubic inch LS3's use 22x/23x cams and make damn near 500 rwhp.
A 4.0 bore shouds the valve too much with an LS3 head and kinda limits the power to be had. If you go 6.2 it helps to unshroud the valve and make more power.
No matter what head you go with make sure you cam them accordingly. LS3 heads don't need big donkey dick cams to make power. Most stock cubic inch LS3's use 22x/23x cams and make damn near 500 rwhp.
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I only reason I ask is because I can get a set of L92s and an LS3 intake for 500/600. (Yes all 3 for that much)
This build will be over the winter so im in no rush.. I want to make AS MUCH power as I can Naturally aspirated. Thats why Im thinking about boring it. And using LS3 internals.
This build will be over the winter so im in no rush.. I want to make AS MUCH power as I can Naturally aspirated. Thats why Im thinking about boring it. And using LS3 internals.
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Verdad Gallardo I only reason I ask is because I can get a set of L92s and an LS3 intake for 500/600. (Yes all 3 for that much)
This build will be over the winter so im in no rush.. I want to make AS MUCH power as I can Naturally aspirated. Thats why Im thinking about boring it. And using LS3 internals.
This build will be over the winter so im in no rush.. I want to make AS MUCH power as I can Naturally aspirated. Thats why Im thinking about boring it. And using LS3 internals.
There is a tool out there to do it and its not hard but this is one of the things I would only let a professional do. It has to be put on in the right spot in the correct location and such. Or if I have a 24x crank laying around, I would just end up throwing that in there.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 48
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From: Louisiana
There is a tool out there to do it and its not hard but this is one of the things I would only let a professional do. It has to be put on in the right spot in the correct location and such. Or if I have a 24x crank laying around, I would just end up throwing that in there.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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Ussually recomendations on a thread has suggestions that clash. This thread is spot on. If you keep it 6.0L, 243 are the best bet. If the budget it there, have them ported by TEA or AI.
If you decide to try and bore it to 4.065, make sure you have the bores sonic tested to ensure the bores can safely handle that large of a overbore. 4.065 seems to be the magic minimum bore required to make the LS3 heads come alive.
Martin Smallwood (sure there is a joke in there somewhere, but Martin seems like a cool dude and knows his **** ) of www.Tickperformance.com spec you a cam reguardless what heads you run.
If you decide to try and bore it to 4.065, make sure you have the bores sonic tested to ensure the bores can safely handle that large of a overbore. 4.065 seems to be the magic minimum bore required to make the LS3 heads come alive.
Martin Smallwood (sure there is a joke in there somewhere, but Martin seems like a cool dude and knows his **** ) of www.Tickperformance.com spec you a cam reguardless what heads you run.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: Louisiana
Or that too. If we ever have to change a wheel at work we actually just replace the whole damn crank! It come from GM with wheel on it!
What actually is the difference though? Are there any special things I need to do if I stick with the 58x reluctor? I plan on running a T56 transmission. Also with the whole VVT situation to just get rid of it can I just get a standard 3 bolt cam/ cam sprocket and keep my VVT timing chain cover? I have 2 sensors in my front cover.
What actually is the difference though? Are there any special things I need to do if I stick with the 58x reluctor? I plan on running a T56 transmission. Also with the whole VVT situation to just get rid of it can I just get a standard 3 bolt cam/ cam sprocket and keep my VVT timing chain cover? I have 2 sensors in my front cover.
I don't know. That cam phaser might be in the way. The kit that TSP has comes with an LS2 front cover with the cam sensor in front and its flat like a gen 3 cover
actually after much research. im keeping vvt! i think itll be pretty cool to retain that feature in a older truck like the 71 c10 im picking up for the build.
do i need a special ecu to retain these functions/ the motor is a 2010 ly6 block.
58x tooth reluctor
do i need a special ecu to retain these functions/ the motor is a 2010 ly6 block.
58x tooth reluctor
