I recently got a ls2 6.0 short block for 400 when I bought it I knew it had a broken engine mount ear and cracked oil pan when I got home I found that the starter ear was cracked too like someone cracked down on the tranny bolt hole to much so the guy I bought it from is going to tig it for me Any thoughts So I'm building this engine for my 1997 blazer http://m.blazerforum.com/forum/showt...d=1#post618272 I'm backing the engine with my nv3500 after I rebuild it , I know bad idea what ever I'll see what happens not going to launching my truck I plan to keep the engine basically stock if I have to bore and hone torque plate of course I'm worried about the condition of the lower half prob going to plastic gauge it I have planed 243 heads idk if I want to port I'm not looking to destroy my tranny or drag my truck Tbss intake from what I learnt is the same as 07 truck intake or possibly none gm intake needs to be cable throttle Roller rockers ,ls7 lifters , new ls2 trays maybe drill them , idk what rods till I get there, hummer lh8 pan Any input guys basic I'm trying to build 500 hp less can be daily driven if I have to

 

 

Is English your second language?

 

I found like three things wrong I didn't ask about my grammar

 

Only three things? Seriously?

I'd like to help ya, but I got into what should been broken into about three sentences and gave up. Hopefully someone with a little more tolerance for a total lack of grammar skills can decipher what you're attempting to ask and give you solid advice.

 

Linick- try not to take it personally, KCS is trying to help you help yourself. We're not in a shop discussing your engine , this is a forum so your ability to communicate your problems can be hindered if it's all typed into one big wall of text. Kinda like if we were in the shop instead of the forum and you ate a whole bottle of Adderall , then proceeded to ask the shop about your engine while talking like the old Micro Machines commercial guy

In regards to your engine, 2 of those cracks can be repaired no problem. The starter boss one is really common, and the engine mount one ... Eh it depends on what youre gonna do with the engine. If you're gonna bore it for bigger pistons anyways, don't sweat it. If you're gonna try and hone the bores and re-ring it, make sure to run an accurate dial bore gauge through those 2 side cylinders and make sure the heat didn't pull anything.

The crack on the back by the rear cover concerns me. It looks like it's right up against an oil galley. That might be a deal breaker for me if it was.

 

The crack in the 2nd picture looks like it is right against the oil passage. With all the other things going on with that block, I would scrap it. It would suck to see all the welding get done, the engine reassembled and installed, just to see it pouring oil out the side of the block. Save yourself time and money in the long run, buy a new block!

 

My original post was broken up into 4 parts but my phone made it one big one sorry

Yes the crack on the back has me worried too.
Is there anyway to tell if the crack got to a oil passage

I 100% agree it would suck to build a engine and the crack leaks or breaks when i start it

 

"DECIPHERED" text . . .

QUOTE:

I recently got a ls2 6.0 short block for $400.

When I bought it, I knew it had a broken engine mount ear and cracked oil pan.

When I got home, I found that the starter ear was cracked. too. like someone cranked down on the tranny bolt hole too much.

So, the guy I bought it from is going to tig weld it for me.

Any thoughts ?

So, I'm building this engine for my 1997 blazer.

http://m.blazerforum.com/forum/showt...d=1#post618272

I'm backing the engine with my nv3500 after I rebuild it.

I know . . . bad idea . . . whatever.

I'll see what happens. I'm not going to "launching" my truck.

I plan to keep the engine basically stock. If I have to bore and hone, I'll use a torque plate, of course.

I'm worried about the condition of the lower half ( "bottom end" ).

I'm probably going to plasti-gauge it.

I have planed 243 heads.

I don't know if I want to port them or not.

I'm not looking to destroy my tranny or drag race my truck.

The TBSS intake, from what I learned, is the same as an 07 truck intake or possibly not.

A GM intake needs to use a cable-operated, throttle-body.

I am thinking about Roller rockers, LS7 lifters , new LS2 trays . . . Maybe drill them ?

I don't know what rods I'll use until I get to that poinr. Possibly, a Hummer LH8 pan might be used.

Any input, guys, would be appreciated.

Basically, I'm trying to build 500 HP, or less, which could be daily driven, if I have to.

END QUOTE :

How did I do ? LOL !

 

lmao thank you ez2cdave for deciphering my mess

 

I'm no engine expert, but I'd say it's shot. For peace of mind I'd scrap that block and get yourself one that is a little less sketchy.

 

Haha, not bad.

That second picture looks like a boss for a head bolt hole, which is probably worse than if it were an oil passage. I wouldn't risk it, but if you want to see what happens then make sure you can thread a head bolt in once it's tig welded, since they are...ya know...kind of important to a running engine.

 

Any time, sir !

Hopefully, I got all of it right . . . THere were a couple of places I had to "make a guess" - LOL !

 

We'll I'm taking the risk of using this block

I'm having my local machinist welded it up. I had friend which is building a 6.0 iron and the machinist look at it and it's "ok" .I don't see how there is a oil passage in that area it's just a water jacket

I can get 317 heads for cheap
I know there best for F.I but how if there used on a stock 6.0

I understand it drops the compression ratio but how bad is that I'm not building a race car

Like I stated I'm looking to build this engine with like 4-500 hp it's doubling my stock engine in my truck now and my drivetrain can't handle more than that