lf9802Fbody

So, my recently purchased Formula (https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicle-c...per-clean.html) looks like the tin man took a **** in my oil pan. I didn't see anything on the dipstick when I inspected, but I should've probably put more light on it - though it could all very well be my fault for hot-rodding it before changing the oil. Nonetheless, this means I'm replacing the engine much sooner than originally planned.. Onward!

I'm looking at a 418 LS3 short block from Texas Speed, and would like some input (keep it newb-friendly) on the build I'm planning (budget = $12k tops):

Heads - TEA GML922-Custom http://www.totalengineairflow.com/pr...der-heads-2-0/
Cam - LS 230/246 from EPS or some variant (may talk to Pat G as most people seem to recommend, but some of the form questions are daunting)
Intake - Stock LS3

What else would I not be able to pull off of my current engine that I would need to purchase? What should I make sure that I pull off of the old engine to put on the new? Unused engine pieces will be going up for sale to help cover this project!

While I had it out, I was also thinking of switching to an electric water pump (http://www.texas-speed.com/p-207-mez...mp-42-gpm.aspx) and switching to a true dual exhaust with X-pipe and 1 7/8" headers from TSP. Is that a good idea (the pump)?

What I'm wanting is a mean and track-ready car, but it's mostly going to be street driven. Definitely shooting for over 500 horse at the rear wheel through my M6.

Thanks

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a good plan.

This is just personal preference--I would go with a belt-driven pump. Some may have not had problems with their electrical units, but it's safe advice to go with a traditional pump on a street driven car.

lf9802Fbody

Yes, I agree now that I think about it more. 3000 hours is probably only 2 years of use for me. Thanks.

Any input on what to scavenge off of the old engine and what else would need to be purchased to make my short block complete? I'm not tackling this project alone, but my friend is a Ford guy, and I want info from people that know the LS engines.

With the metal having gone through the oil pump (small flakes), should I go ahead and replace, or inspect?

lf9802Fbody

Will my Big Mouth 92mm throttle body hook up to a stock ls3 intake manifold? I've searched around, but can't seem to find the answer.

I would assume yes, but someone mentioned to me that the 92mm doesn't work well sometimes?

Looking at the ACDelco OEM replica intake. 12602477

Also, fwiw, I'm switching to a TSP long block with the 260cc LS3 heads and a 235/239 cam. Any feedback on going with that setup?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

It's pretty much standard practice to replace the oil pump when rebuilding. A high volume oil pump is a safe bet for something you plan on dragging occasionally.

I really don't know enough about those other parts you're matching up to give you sound advice. Perhaps some others will join.

Albertan

Texas Speed will include a ported oil pump with a short block. It will be spaced out to clear the double timing chain and you will have to grind out the timing cover a bit for clearance.
Tell them what you are doing and they will tell you what extra parts you will need.

lf9802Fbody

Don't know how I missed that oil pump bit. Thanks!

65lsk10

is it a good idea to go with a high volume pump vs a 10%increased pressure pump... i was always told to stay away from high volume unless you run a 7 or 8 qt system so there's no potential of sucking the pan dry. Reason im asking is i am also in the midst of my first biuld and need a pump not sure which way to go.