mikeymike304

Hey guys I am slowly planning my build for a 9 second car. I will be running in a 1974 260z. Car weight should be in the neighborhood of 2500lbs when I am done. I can't decide if I should go with the lq4 or the 5.3. The plan is to get an engine either out of an auction vehicle or the junk yard and start my build from their. Estimating about 15k for the build. Need some help with what direction I should go and if I should stay NA or go FI. plan is to run a built T56 and not 100% on the rear end. I am estimating I will need about 500 whp to get the job done but I want to make sure the car is extremely reliable as well. I wouldn't mind being able to turn up the boost and make 600+ whp when I go to the track so turbos are on the table but that will be an extra $4k or so so just not sure need some input. It seems the best way to go NA would be to get the 6.0 and do a 408 stroker kit. Well any advice is appreciated!

xdanny510x

me personally id go with the 6.0 ... if u got the money for a aluminum 6.0 so u can save the weight opposed to the iron block...

mikeymike304

I did look into the aluminum block put the price difference is a 408 stroker with forged rods and piston. plus the platform is so light as it is I don't feel the need to cut the extra 100lbs. Plus since some day I may get bored with 500hp. and the iron block is just so much more capable of boost so while I am not against an aluminum block, to me, iron just makes a lot more sense.

xdanny510x

I went with iron as well.. I was like ill make up the weight by cuttin something else down the road..

low2001gmc

iTrader: (148)

Iron 5.3 or 6.0 boosted will get you 9s. 5.3s more plentiful and cheaper. If doubts about 5.3 boosted...google Gunsmoke Tellez Motorsports. Gunsmoke is a heavy full size gm truck with a boosted 5.3 running 9.9s so imagine what your lightweight car could run...hmmm....

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

A budget 6 liter build with some nitrous will get you there the cheapest and easiest. Hell my engine at 2500 pounds raceweight will go 9s without nitrous and high 8s with nitrous and my LQ9 has about $3000-$3500 in it total from oil pan to carburetor,

dezlfrek

iTrader: (1)

l33 block 302cid motor is pushing my car at 3400lbs last night to 9.54@142 on low boost(14psi) with a littled bw475.. 9's would be super easy with 2500lbs and some boost..

Always2Slow

iTrader: (8)

No replacement for displacement. I think its a no brainier because we aren't talking 1 off billet pieces here.

mikeymike304

Thanks for the replies guys. I wont be using nitrous it has never really interested me. It seems most people suggest going boosted. I will do a bit more research but I have pretty much decided to go with a 6.0 and thinking of just getting some turbos off of a turbo diesel and going from there. Should be getting the engine in the next few weeks and will start a build thread.

COPO9560

If you have only budgeted $15K for the entire build, forget about FI unless you are great at fabrication, scrounging parts and tuning on your own. FI cars can be very fast but in general do not come out low cost builds.

A LQ9, ported heads and cam swap along with a small (150) shot of N2O will be a tough combination to beat for the price - especially in a 2500 lb car. If this is a drag car, you will go faster with a stalled auto and break a lot less parts in the process.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

The larger bore greatly opens up your options for valve sizes..... Spend the money on a quality turbo IMO as well.

Set up the fuel system for e85 if you get it in your area. $3/gallon for 106 octane is nice.

yonerhottlt1

iTrader: (21)

+1 more for a boosted 6.0